i need some help.i was reading that ITR pistons are forged, i wanted to conform this. and i was wondering if they can handle a decent shot of nitrous with proper rods. like a 75 or 100 shot. a friend of mine ran a 75 shot on a stock gsr, so im assuming thats fine. would a 100 shot be pushing it or be better off with aftermarket slugs.

basicly would it be better to do:
GSR block
with tuner toys rods and ITR pistons
and cams or aftermarket stage 2 crower or skunk 2's
and a B16 head + nitrous

or

a GSR block
with tuner toys rods and aftermarket forged pistons
and aftermarket stage 2 crower or skunk 2's or the ITR's
and a B16 head + nitrous

im kinda wanting to stear clear of tunning if possible just because it seams like a hassle, but i am willing if i have to. could i use a jumper harness (OBD-0 to OBD-1) and run a ITR map on a P28 or maybe a P06, and get away with it, or maybe fine tune a GSR or ITR map with a VAFC.
thank you for all your help
bump if you read please

 

i waiting to here wats to be said

 

 

If you think tuning is a hastle wait until the motor explodes...
Take it to a quality tuner to make sure it's running right..
-thomas

 

wheres your opinion on the motor setup other than the aspect of tuning well all know that a good tuner is the key to a strong motor

 

word skyler

 

u running a direct port or single fogger setup? its recommended to tune the car but u can get away with it. ive done it in the past with a 80shot single fogger wet setup and it was fine. just retard the timing, gap the plugs correctly, and u "should" be ok. cant tell u how long itll last tho, i had that setup for about 6 months before i tore it down to rebuild for turbo. that was baccccck in the days

 

ITR pistons are not forged...correct me if I'm wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by delslo93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR pistons are not forged...correct me if I'm wrong </TD></TR></TABLE>

you're right itr pistons are not forged they are cast, they come with a coating on the skirt to help reduce friction but are not any stronger than any stock honda piston.

 

thank you for the help. i was gonna run a single fogger. probably a 75 with my dry kit, but ill see how that goes and upgrade to a wet and run a 100 im thinkin. any opinions bout a set up? anything wrong with the set up i posted? its just in a nut shell. i was thinking bout a GSR head, but was wondering the pros and cons of each head

 

pros? cons?

 

if you're going to run nitrous use a wet kit. it's safer than a dry setup. i've got the big bucks go direct port.

 

you get all your questions answered yet?

 

not so much, i want to know the pros and cons of the b16 head compared to the gsr head

 

There is no difference in the 2 heads that will affect you a b16 head is the same and an itr head just without the mild port thats all , you WILL NOT NOTICE any difference.
Put some forged 10:1 pistons in that thing and run a direct port wet kit on her with a good cam and HAVE IT TUNED!!!!
well actually if your gonna cam it make that 11:1-12:1 pistons with big cams you need compression to take advantage hi compression loves nitrous too, BUT ONLY WITH A GOOD TUNE so if your buidling that thing plan on engine mgt and tuning or kiss all that money good bye.
BBUUTtt i put a 100 shot direct port on my old gsr hatch, just slammed the timing to almost full retard put some cold plugs in her and she loved it just like a little ****

 

go with the gsr head. it seems alot easier to get IM for a gsr then b16/itr manifold. If you are going to spray either spray with a wet or direct port. zex direct ports can be had for 600 dollars or so I believe. Not much more money then a wet shot and much much safer. 75/100/125 shot...they will all be in your reach with a good TUNE and not spraying every second of every day. Oh and get some real pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecspeed1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with the gsr head. it seems alot easier to get IM for a gsr then b16/itr manifold. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

say what?

 

Thats what i was just thinkin but didn't want to say anything
gsr is def harder to find **** for manifold wise it's the only design, b16 has way more and are cheaper too since they also fit type r too

 

blox manifolds are cheap and plentiful

 

revhard makes a mani that look just like eddlebrock i have it on my turbo car it's like 280 shipped to your door ANNNNNDDDDDDDD
IT FITS GSR AND B16 manis!!!!!
the only mani on the market that has predrilled holes to fit both bolt patterns
works fine on my 500hp turbo hatch

 

if you're going to do rods, whynot take into account some pistons.

if you're not going to do pistons, then lay off the rods to

you can spray 75-100 on a stock block, but when taken into account rods and pistons you have room to grow. room to grow? yup, check out cubish his daily driver, he has a 250+ shot on his daily driver . you have to know what your doing but you'll have room to grow.

about the rods, i havent heard much of the tuner toys. but why not go with the eagles, they are proven to take (almost) all the abuse you can throw at it

and, for durability, go direct port, your engine does not like uneven distribution of nitrous over your 4 cilinders.

be carefull with the vafc if you're going to use that. when controlling fuel it's also controlling ignition outside your control . that's a bad thing with nitrous.

higher cr equals badass power with little or no margin for error
lower cr equals sligthly less power with a wider margin for error

do it, watch carefully and learn while you're at it

 

not to argue but a vafc does not control any bit of timing ONE BIT
its there to control fuel thats it
I think the vafcII has a section to display timing for K SERIES b and d series
there is nothing that will control timing at all!!!!
ignition timing is done AT THE DITRIBUTOR and cam timin cannot be changed other than the cam gears
theres now way to control timing

 

oke wise guy......

then tell me, how does an vafc work?

how can you add fuel?
does it changes the fuelmaps? i'll tell you the answer is no, because the fuelmaps are a set value at specified rpm and vacuum.

so please enligthen me

 

not saying that your wrong but come on now i can minus that **** out and put my timing light on and what
NOTHING there ya go it does not change timing and if it does it's not enough to matter
not tyring to be a wise guy but the bottom line is it doesn't change timing.
My turbo cars and nitrous cars we have done have never had any issues???
i have to start turbo cars on -50% sometimes timing stays the same???
and even if you are right like i said it's not enough to do anything
and i do not need fuel mgt 101 i have engine mgt and watch my tuner tune all the time

 

you still did not explained to me how a vafc works!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTY-1HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so what fuel map that you know of changes ignition timing
NONE there ya go it does not change timing and if it does it's not enough to matter
not tyring to be a wise guy but the bottom line is it doesn't change timing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/vie...sSuck
so do piggybacks (vafc) change timing in a way that you can't control it?
yes because when you're altering sensorsignals you alter the place on the fuelmap but also on the ignition map