poll: which engine would you boost?
B17A bored to 84mm - shorter stroke than B18 for less side loading, more dispalcement than B16 for more torque.
I'm only saying this because that's what I went with, but I think it is a good combination anyway.
I'm only saying this because that's what I went with, but I think it is a good combination anyway.
IMO, the choice should be between the B18's. It would also have a lot to do with gearing, you would certainly want shorter gears(which leaves the b18b out), but then again the b18b has more displacement that the c1 or c5. You would have to lower the compression more on the c5, which leaves the b18c1.
Also, it would be better if you used a smaller turbo like a 15g or something for better boost response after the turns.
My answer: b18c1 + small turbo.
Also, it would be better if you used a smaller turbo like a 15g or something for better boost response after the turns.
My answer: b18c1 + small turbo.
I always thought with boost you would have better results with longer gears.
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The only time long gears will benifit u is top speed or highway pulls.. Thats why when people put 4:10 gears in their mustangs they say it has no highway because your in overdrive at 120... At the track the long gears will have no benifits..
like maxim said, in an autoX situation the small turbo would be better, more throttle response in and out of the turns.. In a road race situation I still think I T3/T4 would work nicely, alot of hp for the strait aways.. In a drag racing application, I would want something that reaches full boost, say 15psi, at 5k RPM's..
for a highway car I would build GSR w/ a big big T3/T4 and LS tranny
for a 1/4 car I would use a GSR w/ big big T3/T4 and GSR tranny
for a road race car id probably use a GSR w/ T3/T04e and GSR tranny
for an autoX car id probably use a B20 w/ a small T3/T4 or 16G and GSR tranny..
just what id want..
[Modified by DIRep972, 11:21 PM 4/4/2002]
I always thought with boost you would have better results with longer gears.
for a highway car I would build GSR w/ a big big T3/T4 and LS tranny
for a 1/4 car I would use a GSR w/ big big T3/T4 and GSR tranny
for a road race car id probably use a GSR w/ T3/T04e and GSR tranny
for an autoX car id probably use a B20 w/ a small T3/T4 or 16G and GSR tranny..
just what id want..
[Modified by DIRep972, 11:21 PM 4/4/2002]
On the subject of trannies, would the GSR tanny with LS final drive be a good choice? You would have the same gearing as the LS tanny in 1st and 2nd, but a bit shorter in 3rd, 4th, and 5th where you have traction.
"B22a" Will be possible soon with all the new cranks and whatnot Eagle is coming out with and a nice sleeved block.... 
When the Payne Technology block hits the streets, expect 2.5L+ B series cars!!

When the Payne Technology block hits the streets, expect 2.5L+ B series cars!!
"B22a" Will be possible soon with all the new cranks and whatnot Eagle is coming out with and a nice sleeved block....
Eagle as in Eagle rods for new forged cranks, and DART/Payn blocks.
From Tom Payn's website.
"They will be available by Mid-April and will be available in a B18/B20 deck height and a .550" taller deck version. They will come with ductile iron sleeves and steel main caps"
From Tom Payn's website.
"They will be available by Mid-April and will be available in a B18/B20 deck height and a .550" taller deck version. They will come with ductile iron sleeves and steel main caps"
Tom Payn is making his own blocks? He is a really great man! I would recommend him to anyone. He rebuilt my tranny with a quaife and did a custom intake for my turbo. He had excellent prices and did excellent work. Oh, AND he did drive the worlds fastest Mustang too!
Uhhh. I think what I understood from having dinner with him in Texas was he drove the fastest STOCK MOTORed Mustang... to like an 11 second 1/4 mile... but hell yeah, he's a great guy.
I might have misunderstood his mustang history, however
Tom Payne was the **** in TX, at the Trek to Texas event, very cool and helpful!
I might have misunderstood his mustang history, however

Tom Payne was the **** in TX, at the Trek to Texas event, very cool and helpful!
I spoke to the person who is designing the crank at Eagle Specialty Products. He said the cranks for honda/acura were supposed to be out last month but now are expected to be out in 2-3 weeks. There are two options available: the light version and the feather light version. The feather light version is not going to be on the market till after the light version is put out. They are also offering a full rotating assembly for honda/acura. I didnt get the specs on the cranks, but I am interested in what the weight difference is from the stock crank. The prices are:
Light version: $799
Feather-Light version: around $899-$999
Full Rotating Assembly: $1799
[Modified by B20LS-T, 12:56 PM 4/6/2002]
Light version: $799
Feather-Light version: around $899-$999
Full Rotating Assembly: $1799
[Modified by B20LS-T, 12:56 PM 4/6/2002]
B20LS-T, you talk to Alan? He's one of my best friends... we hang out alot and he helped me out with part costs through a shop he used to have, but damn Memphians are soo cheap, everyone wanted rice, and when he stuck to his Hardcore Honda guns, the shop went under 
Long Live Precision Performance!

Long Live Precision Performance!
Its got more displacement than the B16a, and its compression is lower than the B18c5 which means at lower boost (6lbs) you can still run on pump gas.
why did so many people pick the B18C1?




