can i run boost on a b16a2 with the stock pistons but upgraded rods?
about 10 psi on a t3/t4 turbo?
or will i have to go with low comp pistons. and yes i know that low comp pistons are for boost but im in a budget.

 

Ok...for starters, boost pressure is not how we measure power goals. Put your goals in terms of WHP. Secondly, saying you have a T3/T04 is not very descriptive since thousands of turbos fall into that category.

Now to your build...the rods are not the parts needing to be replaced. The piston ringlands are the weak point in B series engines; therefore, running stock pistons on upgraded rods is no better than running a totally stock setup. Having to upgrade to a set of forged pistons (not necessarily lower compression) would be ideal, but it depends on your goals. You may not have to do anything at all...Let us know what you're hoping to make and what your budget is. We'll help you with the rest

 

i apologize.
my whp goal is about 350whp. what type of pistons do you suggest? my budget is not much since this economy is killing me. so i need a little "fun" to make me happy in these hard times. budget is about $800 for parts and turbo

 

I would shoot for 300 and call it a day. My 250whp car (nitrous) was a blast to drive & was very competitive. When you go over 300 ur gonna need rods/pistons to be reliable. So if you need all that u will blow your load on just rod/piston combo. Buy arp's for the rods and head and slap the turbo on! Done!

 

My advice, keep saving. $800 won't get you much.

 

A good tuner can get you 350whp on a stock bottom end.

I agree, $800 won't get you very far for a boosted set up.

 

after researching i found that if i build my own turbo kit, buying parts seperate, i will save more and have a good quality turbo. so im shooting for that.
i know that the bottom end has to be rebuilt or it will blow if there is too much hp.
but i have not heard or read anything about the head.
will i have to upgrade the head as well as the rods and pistons?
or can i run a stock head?

 

my b16a2 made 351 on 12 lbs...not even pushing it.

 

and is that a bone stock b16a2?

 

besides a turbo. yes.

stock bottom. stock head. stock intake mani too haha.

 

my old stock b16a2 did over 480hp stock and lasted three months cracked a cylinder wall

 

yea torque can do that. if the rod doesnt go first.

 

dang. but i dont feel like replacing a block. so when i go turbo ill just upgrade rods and pistons.
what is the highest compression that i can have so i can drive my car until i have the turbo parts. cuz i know that if i put low compression pistons and drive it like that, with no turbo, then it will drive like crap

 

Here's what you do. Its the best way for you to enjoy a boosted setup the longest.

1. Save up until you have a decent amount of money for a turbo setup ($3000 or so)
2. Slap that on your stock engine and keep your goals reasonable...~300whp
3. Enjoy
4. Save more money
5. When you have enough saved, then consider building the bottom end and increasing your power goals

Theres no sense in doing it all at once when you can spread it out over time. This way you can gradually ease into having more power and TRUST ME, thats the way you want to do it. You're goign to get bored of a certain power level, no matter what it is, and want more. You may as well get to your ultimate goal gradually

 

daaaaamn!!!!!! thats alot
how much hp can stock rods hold before they go bye bye?

 

ive heard around 300whp but it also readly depends on tune, shitty tuner, maybe 200whp,great tuner, 300-350+whp?

 

THE TRUTH SPEAKS. Do it right the first time around. I'm tired of hearing people blow motors running fmu's and not getting it tuned.

$3000 (piece your own turbo kit $2000, $500 for a good tune, $500 for unseen expenses.)

 

thats the thing. i do want to do things right the first time.
that is why im thinking of just building the bottom end with rods and pistons.
better to do it while the engine is out.

 

Sounds like you need to do some more research, get facts, not e-opinions or "i heard" stories. Stock rods and pistons can hold boost, it all depends on the condition of the motor, it's internals, etc. But it all depends on how you do it. Boost level is irrelevant to power terms, you can be boosting 30psi and still only make 200whp because you have crap for parts and **** tune.

reliability comes from quality conditioned motor and proper tune. How do you know the motor needs a rebuild? Did you do a leak down and compression test? Start there. $800 won't get you much, so don't get your hopes up too high.

By the time you're done, you'll have spent at least $3000 without realizing it for a decent mild setup.

 

Whats your budget for the whole setup and engine? If you dont have enough money to do both at first, you can follow my steps listed above. Don't think you have to build it to run 300whp. Hell, i made 315whp on my stock block GSR for 2 years with no problems...

 

my budget for the whole thing is about $2,000.
if it is not enough, which now im starting to think its not, then ill follow your steps

 

That's barely enough for a complete turbo kit...let alone an engine build. Stick to the steps above

 

will do.
thank you all for the help!
greatly appreciated

 

Anyone have any expereince of using stock pistons/rods with a P2W of 3 thou? its where mine is and i have very lower power goals (220bhp) on a T28 so would prefer to avoid added expensive but most ive heard anyone use with stock pistons is 2-2.5thou.

also any confirmation of mahle/arias pistons being used on stock rods?

 

First - I want to say it is a BAD IDEA to dig up old threads & hijack them with your own question. People will ignore your question, and look stupid answering another ancient question.

Next - the reason people use the clearances they use with stock pistons is because of the material. Cast doesn't expand as much, nor is it expected to make 400whp on an every day basis. Forged pistons are given the clearance to expand for regular op temps, as well as for high-hp heats. Running a stock piston with more clearance will not help increase it's longevity or power, it will actually do the reverse. It will slap around, allow more blowby, and leave more unburnt gas around the crown. Unburnt gas washes oil away, which creates bad friction....

Best idea is to not run stock pistons, or at least run them at the edge of Honda's service specs. Generally pistons/rods are a small amount of the overall build, IMO it rarely pays to [re]use stock rods & pistons.

BTW stock rods have to be honed out for a floating wrist pin (bad idea), or special press-fit pistons must be used. They make them (I forget who), but they aren't common nor a very good idea.