Overheating with new rad
I replaced my stock CRX rad with a Fluidyne 1/2 size rad and a 10" slim fan and am having problems with keeping engine temps down due to . I have my fan wired to be on constantly, installed a colder Jackson racing thermostat, bled the coolant and still thecar is running hot. The rad overflow is completley full which leads me to belive the rad car may be to blame. The rad cap is rated at 16 lbs. Should I try using the old crx rad cap or iam I better off with the fluidyne cap. Any help or pointers are greatly appreaciated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I replaced my stock CRX rad with a Fluidyne 1/2 size rad and a 10" slim fan and am having problems with keeping engine temps down due to . I have my fan wired to be on constantly, installed a colder Jackson racing thermostat, bled the coolant and still thecar is running hot. The rad overflow is completley full which leads me to belive the rad car may be to blame. The rad cap is rated at 16 lbs. Should I try using the old crx rad cap or iam I better off with the fluidyne cap. Any help or pointers are greatly appreaciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe your fan isn't flowing enough cfm.. and does it flow air in the right direction? do you still run a/c?
maybe your fan isn't flowing enough cfm.. and does it flow air in the right direction? do you still run a/c?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10".. is that the largest you can fit? and do temps go down if you blast the heat? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Engine temps do go down when the heat is on
Engine temps do go down when the heat is on
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Engine temps do go down when the heat is on </TD></TR></TABLE>
my guess is.. you might have to provide more air circulation. probably by upgrading radiator fan, i'm not sure if larger radiator will help or not..
exhaust leaks inside engine bay, wastegates without dumptubes can lead to overheating.. also, make sure everything circulates... btw, are you loosing coolant/oil? smoke?
Engine temps do go down when the heat is on </TD></TR></TABLE>
my guess is.. you might have to provide more air circulation. probably by upgrading radiator fan, i'm not sure if larger radiator will help or not..
exhaust leaks inside engine bay, wastegates without dumptubes can lead to overheating.. also, make sure everything circulates... btw, are you loosing coolant/oil? smoke?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am loosing coolant, I figured it was escaping out of the overflow. No smoking, oil looks good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you defintately have to find the source of that.. normally, i'd have to add coolant 2-3 times after replacing radiator or even coolant flush.. but thats only 2-3 times.. if you have to add coolant on regular basis.. you have to find a leak. autozone and some alike places rent cooling system pressure tester. you'll be able to hear where the leak is. try a different radiator cap and just look for leaks all over the place. coolant should not escape from overflow bottle.. not from oem.. i haven't seen one that leaks.. yet.
you defintately have to find the source of that.. normally, i'd have to add coolant 2-3 times after replacing radiator or even coolant flush.. but thats only 2-3 times.. if you have to add coolant on regular basis.. you have to find a leak. autozone and some alike places rent cooling system pressure tester. you'll be able to hear where the leak is. try a different radiator cap and just look for leaks all over the place. coolant should not escape from overflow bottle.. not from oem.. i haven't seen one that leaks.. yet.
What's your coolant ratio? 50/50? maybe you should try more water, like a 70/30 mix instead? also heard of adding a DROP or two of liquid soap just to break water tension, give that a shot.
i run 75 / 25 water to coolant respectively. also i have watter wetter. you should invest in that. it works... not a scam.
sure you are bleeding it all the way ??
over flow can be related all the way from bad rad. cap to head gasket.
sure you are bleeding it all the way ??
over flow can be related all the way from bad rad. cap to head gasket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK_GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run 75 / 25 water to coolant respectively. also i have watter wetter. you should invest in that. it works... not a scam.
sure you are bleeding it all the way ??
over flow can be related all the way from bad rad. cap to head gasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on our bikes we run nothing but water wetter and water... its simply the coolest. if u are in extreme cold, this is not an option.
sure you are bleeding it all the way ??
over flow can be related all the way from bad rad. cap to head gasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on our bikes we run nothing but water wetter and water... its simply the coolest. if u are in extreme cold, this is not an option.
I have the Fluidyne 1/2 size rad in an ef. I’m running a 1400 or 1500 cmf 14” fan I picked up from summit. I can sit in Hawaii traffic all day. Get a better fan. Pics are in my sig. Good luck.
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civic_boii
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