Well my car is a Top Mount LS Turbo, this car is daily driven, and ever since it was put in the road I've been having issues with the cooling system.



Well when it first came out it had and EG radiator with some no name 12' fan, that would work when it felt like it. Replaced the fan to a maridyne 10', blows HARD! (I can hear it over my motor). Well still when I drove the car and i hit boost it was still overheating. Replaced the radiator for an dual core aluminum rad, and it was perfect no more overheating. But now when I hit too much traffic and the car idles for more than 25mins it overheats gradually, and the needle keeps on moving towards the RED . Only when i step on the gas does it does cool down.

I have a video of it.




what can it be now? Could it be the water pump, thermostat, or is the downpipe too close to the rad. Or can it be that the turbo, manifold, and DP are creating to much heat in the engine bay?


Modified by AViciousTHRUST at 12:41 AM 6/28/2008

 

try wrapping the downpipe...id recommend a blockoff for the section on the driver's side...but since it happens sitting in traffic, that doesnt seem like the case.

 

I ran into overheating issues while on track. Eventually had to go to a full width radiator with dual pusher fans.

Adding some heat shielding on the down pipe should help some of the radiant heat.
I also went to a 5-qrt Moroso oil pan which helped a lot.

 

try putting a pan on the front side of the rad.. if you do make sure you turn the blades and reverse the wires so the fans work together not against. This solved my issue on my topmount

 

Looks like you have your fan as a pusher if it is there. Try switching it to a puller. I had this problem and when I made the switch it blows much harder and my ects dropped over 10 degrees.

 

Yea I was thinking about wrapping the DP and getting a turbo blanket and also wrapping the manifold. However, I've heard that wrapping your DP and any other components makes them deteriorate faster.

Plus when the car starts overheating, and I press the sunroof button the Temp. needle starts to move towards redline. Weird.

 

are you running straight water? or a 50/50 mix? any cooling additives? did you ever flush and bleed the system? i would start with these things before going out and just dropping money on things you dont need. im running a single core oem rad in my civic with a 50/50 mix and DEI additive and i have never been over half way, thats even with sitting in freeway traffic.

 

check the thermostat as well

 

get the air pockets out of the cooling system thats why its starting to cool as you give it gas theres a leak somewhere in your system had the same problem not to long ago with an old del sol seal the thermostat housing and upper hose neck with rtv and make sure thermostat is good your better off just replacing it hell there only like 10 bucks. But thats my two cents hope it helps and get rid of those old factory hose clamps use worm clamps and like the one guy said make sure whatever your using to cool the car is good be it 50/50 mix, water, whatever i would use a 70% water the 30% coolant the coolant is just a lubricant anyway and water will cool alot better. those are my suggestions hope they help.


Modified by BLUEASHEF at 12:43 PM 6/28/2008

 

Get a GOOD fan with a shroud on there. Spal has a 13" fan with an 18 amp motor on it, put that on there and build a shroud for it and you'll be good. Those dinky little fans with no shroud don't cut it.

 

looks like you get a flow issue with the coolant

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUEASHEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the air pockets out of the cooling system thats why its starting to cool as you give it gas theres a leak somewhere in your system had the same problem not to long ago with an old del sol seal the thermostat housing and upper hose neck with rtv and make sure thermostat is good your better off just replacing it hell there only like 10 bucks. But thats my two cents hope it helps and get rid of those old factory hose clamps use worm clamps and like the one guy said make sure whatever your using to cool the car is good be it 50/50 mix, water, whatever i would use a 70% water the 30% coolant the coolant is just a lubricant anyway and water will cool alot better. those are my suggestions hope they help.

I'm going to do this, only prob is that bolt on the block to bleed out the antifreeze. can't get enough leverage to get it out. I dont wanna damage the manifold.


Modified by BLUEASHEF at 12:43 PM 6/28/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tony1:
I will also look into this, but could the 13" fan make all this go away?



Modified by AViciousTHRUST at 12:17 AM 6/30/2008

 

where is the return for your catch can?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is the return for your catch can?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There isnt one.

 

I was also looking into steel braided hoses and A/N fittings.
Is there any information on how to do this for both the lower and upper radiator hoses?
Any DIY thread or anyone who had done this?

 

mhmm are you running a blockguard? or its the block sleeved?

 

no guard and its not sleeved either. Just CP pistons and eagle rods.