OVERHEATING on free way
The only time it starts to creep and heat up is in the day on the freeway doing 70+ but its fine with heater on. I live in phoenix and I rather have the a/c on not the heater. The thermostat just replaced. All coolant mix, water pump is good. Not loosing coolant...maybe radiator?
Under the hood
•99’ Honda B16a2
•ACT heavy duty six puck clutch
•Prothane Motor mounts inserts
•Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
•Precision Sc61 stage 5 wheel turbocharger assembly
•Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate (7 PSI Spring)
•Drag High Flow front mount intercooler
•Greddy Tpye- S Blow Off Valve
•Stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings Oil return assembly
•Walbro 255 Lph fuel pump
•Rc 550cc Injectors
•Cometic .078 81mm Head gasket
•Arp headstuds
•AEM Tru-Time adjustable cam gears
•Golden Eagle vacuum manifold
•Tuned on Crome By AFI TurboJesse
Modified by jdmcivicb16a2sc61 at 11:30 AM 5/7/2006
Under the hood
•99’ Honda B16a2
•ACT heavy duty six puck clutch
•Prothane Motor mounts inserts
•Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
•Precision Sc61 stage 5 wheel turbocharger assembly
•Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate (7 PSI Spring)
•Drag High Flow front mount intercooler
•Greddy Tpye- S Blow Off Valve
•Stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings Oil return assembly
•Walbro 255 Lph fuel pump
•Rc 550cc Injectors
•Cometic .078 81mm Head gasket
•Arp headstuds
•AEM Tru-Time adjustable cam gears
•Golden Eagle vacuum manifold
•Tuned on Crome By AFI TurboJesse
Modified by jdmcivicb16a2sc61 at 11:30 AM 5/7/2006
pm jay sensing on the board.....he had the same problem to what you are saying i think the core on his radiator went bad.....was a simple fix.....just replace the radiator.
Yeah I had a similar problem for about 2 months and it took a lot of work to get it all figured out.
First off I was loosing coolant as well though so we are slightly different on the problem here.
I fixed all my minor issues though and then began pushing coolant into the overflow under boost so that didn't help much.
Ended up having clogs in my radiator which caused it to build so much pressure in the system it cracked a vane (sp).
Replaced with an aluminum rad and now problems are gone. No more pushing coolant, no loss of coolant, and no overheating best of all.
First off I was loosing coolant as well though so we are slightly different on the problem here.
I fixed all my minor issues though and then began pushing coolant into the overflow under boost so that didn't help much.
Ended up having clogs in my radiator which caused it to build so much pressure in the system it cracked a vane (sp).
Replaced with an aluminum rad and now problems are gone. No more pushing coolant, no loss of coolant, and no overheating best of all.
Yap. new slimline fan mounted right and blowing right..but that shouldnt matter at high speeds, and bled no bubbles...yea... im gonna get a new radiator. and im going to pick up that water cooled ball bearing turbo from TurboJesse https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1611303
Trending Topics
Same thing happined to me, I had to run down the highway with the heat on full to keep it normal. one day I checked after I got done a 40min ride and my lower radiator hose was cold still? I realized the sensor on the Thermastat was unplugged, so I plugged it in and I think I let it run for 20 min with the cap off... was fine after that? Must of had a stuck thermastat and it just desided to work for whatever reason, maybe air bubble?
check your lower hose, make sure it is hot
check your lower hose, make sure it is hot
i had same problem last year, only thing left to replace was the radiator. replaced the radiator and no overheating problems. your car runs the hottest while on freeway + a/c.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay_Sensing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I had a similar problem for about 2 months and it took a lot of work to get it all figured out.
First off I was loosing coolant as well though so we are slightly different on the problem here.
I fixed all my minor issues though and then began pushing coolant into the overflow under boost so that didn't help much.
Ended up having clogs in my radiator which caused it to build so much pressure in the system it cracked a vane (sp).
Replaced with an aluminum rad and now problems are gone. No more pushing coolant, no loss of coolant, and no overheating best of all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay_Sensing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I had a similar problem for about 2 months and it took a lot of work to get it all figured out.
First off I was loosing coolant as well though so we are slightly different on the problem here.
I fixed all my minor issues though and then began pushing coolant into the overflow under boost so that didn't help much.
Ended up having clogs in my radiator which caused it to build so much pressure in the system it cracked a vane (sp).
Replaced with an aluminum rad and now problems are gone. No more pushing coolant, no loss of coolant, and no overheating best of all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check your rad., then re-bleed, and if all else fails, flush your system and get new coolant!!!
Also, I did have a problem with the bottom hose being blown off/leaking. Also I never stayed at a ideal temp until I picked up a fluidyne 3 core radiator! It helps out so much, even with out the fan!!!
Also, I did have a problem with the bottom hose being blown off/leaking. Also I never stayed at a ideal temp until I picked up a fluidyne 3 core radiator! It helps out so much, even with out the fan!!!
im having similar issues. temp will start to creep after a while on the highway, usually only if im beatin on it a bit. i need to fix a few minor issues, i think i have a small leak somewhere. after that im think bout grabin a new rad as well.
i really hate to have to resort to that since i know so many people using stock half rads without problems. i have the del sol dual core and figured that should be more than enough. keep us updated on this, id like to know how it turns out.
i really hate to have to resort to that since i know so many people using stock half rads without problems. i have the del sol dual core and figured that should be more than enough. keep us updated on this, id like to know how it turns out.
I know the feeling. I know several people who are using stock single core rad's with cars making more power than me and not having problems.
My stock dual core just wasn't that lucky though.
My stock dual core just wasn't that lucky though.
im still hesitant to blame my radiator though cause i was working nicely for about 3 months, then all the sudden it started having problems. like i said thee are still a few small things for me to take care of before i go ahead and grab a new rad.
are most of you guys runnin the fluidyne or is anyone having luck with the ebay knockoffs?
are most of you guys runnin the fluidyne or is anyone having luck with the ebay knockoffs?
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 3
From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
an aluminum rad is an aluminum rad...they will all perform similar.
IF you ditched your AC you need to block off that area of your radiator support. AIR will follow the path of least resistance and if you DO NOT have AC, the air will go through that hole in the Rad support instead of flowing through your radiator.
Just something to think about.........
IF you ditched your AC you need to block off that area of your radiator support. AIR will follow the path of least resistance and if you DO NOT have AC, the air will go through that hole in the Rad support instead of flowing through your radiator.
Just something to think about.........
yeah ive heard all of that stuff about airflow cause i dont have ac anymore. also some have mentioned the IC blocking the rad. just weird that everything was good for like 3 months (end of summer) and i didnt start having problems until after that. o well ill get it figured out eventually
it shouldnt be my headgasket its cometic and i have arp headstuds, i dont have coolant in my oil or oil in my coolant, nor am i loosing coolant. i think im gonna go with the ebay knock off
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicb16a2sc61 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it shouldnt be my headgasket its cometic and i have arp headstuds, i dont have coolant in my oil or oil in my coolant, nor am i loosing coolant. i think im gonna go with the ebay knock off</TD></TR></TABLE>
doesn't matter if you have arps and a cometic gasket. It can still blow if something is off in the tune. I've blown them in the past and its never showed any signs of coolant and oil mixing, but it definately had a small leak and all was well after replacing the gasket.
doesn't matter if you have arps and a cometic gasket. It can still blow if something is off in the tune. I've blown them in the past and its never showed any signs of coolant and oil mixing, but it definately had a small leak and all was well after replacing the gasket.
I am running a godspeed ebay rad and not a single complaint here. I just couldn't see spending the cash on a fluidyne when so many others are running the egay ones with no probs.
And SOHCMschu is right about the HG, I have had them blown before with no other indications.
And SOHCMschu is right about the HG, I have had them blown before with no other indications.
Im running ebay too.. got it for 40 bucks, still no problem yet
why spend 300 bucks for a fluid when u can pay 40 and it perform the same?
I gues some ppl are just rich...
why spend 300 bucks for a fluid when u can pay 40 and it perform the same?
I gues some ppl are just rich...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly headgasket</TD></TR></TABLE>
Easy there tiger
....start off with checking the small things.
Easy there tiger
....start off with checking the small things.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im still hesitant to blame my radiator though cause i was working nicely for about 3 months, then all the sudden it started having problems. like i said thee are still a few small things for me to take care of before i go ahead and grab a new rad.
are most of you guys runnin the fluidyne or is anyone having luck with the ebay knockoffs? </TD></TR></TABLE>
my replacement is the cheapest single core factory spec. if you have more than 80-90k miles on current radiator, then its worth 100 dollars if you have integra and probably much less if you have civic. my old one would still work, just not with turbo heat.
are most of you guys runnin the fluidyne or is anyone having luck with the ebay knockoffs? </TD></TR></TABLE>
my replacement is the cheapest single core factory spec. if you have more than 80-90k miles on current radiator, then its worth 100 dollars if you have integra and probably much less if you have civic. my old one would still work, just not with turbo heat.



