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I overheated while driving on the highway. I didn't notice that it was happening for a little while untill the car felt funny and I looked down and noticed the gauge, but I wasn't in a position to do anything about it untill I hit the exit. Anyhow, I pulled into a parking lot and shut it off. It was smoking and and all that stuff and was bad news. Anyhow, I pretty much know the head is warped, but my question is this. When I was having it towed and they lifted up the front end of the car, lots of coolent came pouring out of the exhaust. Is that typical of a warped/busted head and or valves, or is it another problem? Is there any major problems that will/ would have effected the bottom end caused by the overheating? If so, will I notice when I pull the head?

vtekthis

put on a new headgasket, and run that bitch

turboteg2nv

You're from Columbus?? How the hell did you manage to overheat in the middle of winter, it was like 15' degrees today!!!

bretthuff0

The first time I had that problem it was just the head gasket. Second time it was #2 cyl sleeve cracked. Good luck.

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iTrader: (1)

it didn't happen yesterday, actually it happend a while ago, but I didn't have the money to fix it, so I used my other car. I want to get the teg up and running again on the motor that's in it untill my built motor is done (it was swapped out at the time since the thrust bearing went out on it) , but I just want to know what problems I am looking at before I start. Hopefully it's not a cracked sleeve. I wasn't hitting any boost or anything when this happend, but I guess heat could crack a sleeve.

bretthuff0

Take out the spark plugs and check for coolant. If there is any in there try to get it out so if it's just the head gasket you wouldn't have to deal with rusted cylinder walls.

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iTrader: (1)

But it was overheating for a while, wouldn't the cylinder head be damaged? how I thought if you overheated it just one time it was done? How do you know if the head is warped? Is it visible warpage, or can you only tell with some kind of machine? I don't want to use a new HG and then have it still be expletiveed up after I put the head back on.

bretthuff0

The easiest way if you don't have a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges is take it too a good machine shop tell him to check the clearances and write them down for you then take the head home. Honda's heads can take some abuse though chances are it's good. How long did you drive with it overheating?

rorik

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bretthuff0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take out the spark plugs and check for coolant. If there is any in there try to get it out so if it's just the head gasket you wouldn't have to deal with rusted cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, just like it rusts a cast iron block?

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iTrader: (1)

I had to drive it for about 10 minutes, maybe a little bit more. I didn't want to but I couldn't stop.

turboteg2nv

I would've pulled over asap

Anyway if you don't have the tools necessary to measure for warpage, I know of some really good machine shops in Delaware that can inspect it (they ported my bro's 4g63 head). Let me know if you want their contact info.

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iTrader: (1)

Yeah I would. That would be cool.

agrn93ls

dont even mess around with just doint the gasket if it got that hot a machine shop with the proper equipment to check it needs to look at it, besides decking the head usually is under 50$, very worth it.

twkdCD595

as indicated... warped head and blown headgasket are common with an overheat.

rorik

but what caused it to overheat in the first place? Also, have you checked the oil for the presence of coolant? That's what really kills motors with blown head gaskets. If there is coolant in the oil, it will look like chocolate milk.

turboteg2nv

Send an oil sample to blackstone-labs.com for $22 and they can do an oil analysis to see if you experienced any coolant contamination. Unless it does look like choco-milk...then it's pretty clear!!

I'll PM you with the shops contact info, waiting for my bro to text me back!

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iTrader: (1)

Bad radiator caused it to over heat. What happens if there is coolant in the oil? What does that mean if there is? I don't know, I haven't checked, but knowing my luck I wouldn't be surprised if thier is. If there is, does that mean cracked sleeve?

agrn93ls

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what caused it to overheat in the first place? Also, have you checked the oil for the presence of coolant? That's what really kills motors with blown head gaskets. If there is coolant in the oil, it will look like chocolate milk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteg2nv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Send an oil sample to blackstone-labs.com for $22 and they can do an oil analysis to see if you experienced any coolant contamination. Unless it does look like choco-milk...then it's pretty clear!!

I'll PM you with the shops contact info, waiting for my bro to text me back!</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rooftop voter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad radiator caused it to over heat. What happens if there is coolant in the oil? What does that mean if there is? I don't know, I haven't checked, but knowing my luck I wouldn't be surprised if thier is. If there is, does that mean cracked sleeve?</TD></TR></TABLE>


It dosen't matter if there is water in the oil, it still has to come apart and be checked. I dont know why you guys are confusing him telling him to get oil samples etc... all that is going to tell him is that he needs to take it apart, which it already needs to be taken apart, WATER CAME OUT THE EXHAUST, what else do you need to know?

To the OP if it overheated that bad, pull the head inspect everything, you wont know the condition of anything till you take it apart.

Also to the OP you definately need to just pull it because a severe overheat can also cause the pistons to swell too much and damage the cylinder walls and or pistons.. So regardless of what is mixed with what if water came out of the exhaust that means you had water enter the cylinders and that indicated something went wrong and to identify what it was 100% it will have to be taken apart. Most likely it was the gasket if you were not boosting at all. But to confirm it...

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iTrader: (1)

Ok, thanks. What are the chances that the pistons swelled. The car won't even turn over. Is that a sign, or is it that there may be to much coolant in the cylinders? Owell, I guess there is no telling really. What should I look for if the pistons swelled? Scratches, dents on the cylinder walls, or will I be able to see the pistons not looking right? Thank you guys for your answers.

agrn93ls

If it wont turn over it most likely has a cylinder(s) full of coolant, take out the spark plugs and spin the engine over that will shoot out the coolant.

And if you got cylinders full of liquid it can bend a rod, so would I would do is take out the plugs, turn it over, put them back in, and start it just for a second, make sure the oil isnt full of coolant if you are going to run it.

The reason I say to run it is if it starts knocking or anything real bad then you know its not worth even tearing down, even though I still strongly recommend that you do.

You want to see the crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls


If you had a problem with an extreme overheat to where it did damage to the cylinder walls it will be very very obvious, there will be vertical scratches in the cylinder..

here are a couple pics of what pistons look like after a bad overheat, couldnt find pics of the cylinder but you can imagine what it would look like, look the same just on the cylinder wall..





these are what you want to see







Examples of crosshatch







Modified by agrn93ls at 4:28 PM 1/18/2008

rorik

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I dont know why you guys are confusing him telling him to get oil samples etc... all that is going to tell him is that he needs to take it apart,
</TD></TR></TABLE>

"guys"? As in plural? I didn't tell him to send a sample anywhere, (never even heard of that, lol), I just said check it out. If the oil looks normal, that's a good sign for the bottom end, that's all. I just wanted to make sure the o.p. knew that if the oil was contaminated by coolant, he needs to check out the bearing clearances, etc, since water+coolant+oil doesn't make a very nice mix for lubrication. It would be a really lousy experience to redo the top end only to have it throw a rod or start knocking later due to bottom end damage..

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iTrader: (1)

When I spin the engine, should I pull the # 15 fuse like when doing a compression test?

agrn93ls

Yeah go ahead and pull it while the plugs are out to keep the risk down of starting a fire.

But yes rorik is right it can damage the bottom end bearings if water got in the oil, that is why I am actually suggesting you crank it and run it for a second (or tear apart the bottom end and check all your bearings).

Which pulling the bearings and checking would be the best and proper way

In case you didnt understand, what I was suggesting, what I would do is pull the plugs turn it over to shoot out the water, go ahead and drain the water too to keep it from going into the cylinders after you get it out, leave off your radiator cap so when you start it if any pressure comes out it wont blow up the radiator, AND STAND BACK FROM THE RADIATOR WHILE STARTING, then put the plugs back in check the oil, if there is no water go ahead and start and run the engine just for a second and make sure it dosent knock. If it don't knock tear it down, take the head to a machine shop have it checked, and then put her back together.




Modified by agrn93ls at 1:48 PM 1/19/2008

agrn93ls

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"guys"? As in plural? I didn't tell him to send a sample anywhere, (never even heard of that, lol), I just said check it out. If the oil looks normal, that's a good sign for the bottom end, that's all. I just wanted to make sure the o.p. knew that if the oil was contaminated by coolant, he needs to check out the bearing clearances, etc, since water+coolant+oil doesn't make a very nice mix for lubrication. It would be a really lousy experience to redo the top end only to have it throw a rod or start knocking later due to bottom end damage.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what caused it to overheat in the first place? Also, have you checked the oil for the presence of coolant? That's what really kills motors with blown head gaskets. If there is coolant in the oil, it will look like chocolate milk.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yes I understand, wasnt trying to be a dick but all you said was check the oil for water, and it will look like chocolate milk, you didnt put the rest about the bearings etc, then the other guy talking about oil samples when the dude has water coming out the exhaust, thats like getting a physical after your head just got cut off lol

I could tell the guy was getting a little sidetracked and confused by all that

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iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much. I will do this as soon as soon as I feel up to messing around in these freezing temps.