garyherr

Full b18c no sleeve forge internal
spoolin log kit gt28rs
14 lbs boost @320hp

I never really paid attention to it,untill last night took it out for a drive.Did a couple hard pulls and came back,open up the hood for some cool air and saw the overflow full but not boiling.I went on and check oil good,no water mix.Check the compression all across 180.engines not overheating at all strong and drives fine.But thinking back on the dyno session a week ago a few lbs were dropping at 7.5ish and back up at 8000 rpm tuner said might be the boost controller.Am I pressuring some boost back into the radiator,or is it a normal thing like I said no overheat and strong.

SilverEk3dr

U need to do a leakdown test asap. Seen it before and it was the deck having a nick in it from the build. Had to tear the motor down and have the block decked. Not saying thats your issue, but just for ex. Do u have arp's?

TegraGSXR

iTrader: (2)

i had the same issue. it never overheated but at the track every now and again the cap would pop off due to overflowing. have arp studs and i took the head off, milled it and threw it back together with a new head gasket and no issues since.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

What are your coolant temps before and after?

b20beast83

try changing your rad cap

jeryjohn

hate to say so but really sounds like cylinder head problem warped dented or scratched i got it decked and new gasket no problems since do you get any white smoke out of the exhaust??

garyherr

ok I don't have leakdown tester.Can I just put air pressure into the each cylinder to see if it'll bubble some air in the radiator.Is it possible to tell if theres a leak.

yes arp head bolts and block and head was resurface before the build 1000 miles on it.

garyherr

would I have a problem with this if I dont correct it.it holds boost and all.

garyherr

what would a radiator cap have to do with this.

garyherr

no white smoke at all no performance problem at all.
only if in boost like a hard run.It'll be full to the top,usually I'll be half 'normal full'

garyherr

Have not purchase a after market one yet.But the stock on read normal never climb up at all.

boostedEF91

sounds like head problems to me to. head either lifting or warped. i had a single cam before that pushed it in like crazy after i was beatin on it for a little. or did a couple of pulls. after the car would cool down it would just suck it all back in. but still pushed it if i would beat it.

garyherr

any other suggestion beside a head gasket problem.It's been only a 1000 miles if less.
whats the problem?

ahobbs

Headgasket bro. simple as that. been though it. overflow would fill and I would ck compression and all was good.

put a new gasket on it and resurfaced the head ARP head studs and all was good.

jdm inc

iTrader: (11)

x2 pull the head resurface it and put a new headgasket on.

garyherr

dang it.

garyherr

x2 dang it.

would this be a big problem if I keep running it.

garyherr

OK x2 the head gasket.Now would I have a problem if I replace the gasket,I mean the tuning wise would it effect it.

teg_95

same problem. only does it every now and again. and boils? but ive only had my kit on for a month. not really driving it hard?

boostedEF91

shouldn't effect tuning. unless you dont put the same thickness head gasket on or put it back together correctly

ahobbs

no it wont effect tuning and it's a fast job. maybe 2hrs if your slow.

OneBadTurboCRV

Radiator Cap Question = Think about it, what purpose does the radiator cap serve on our cars? Well it has 2 basic functions. The first one, perhaps the most obvious, it allows you to fill your radiator/motor with fluid. The second being this: Have you ever noticed that our radiator caps have a spring in them. It is not for sealing, that could be accomplished by a standard screw on cap. For instance in a sealed radiator system. Those are just standard screw on caps with typically no plunger or spring. Most sealed radiator systems don't even have a radiator cap. The purpose on our engines for the radiator cap is to bleed off excess pressure that happens when the motor heats up. As you may know when most things are heated they expand. If the fluid had no way of escaping then the weakest link would blow. I.E. your radiator hoses, gaskets, ect., ect. So not only does the pressure from the liquid cause it to open but so does pressure from air that is inside which also on the other hand allows fliud to be drawn back in as needed to fill the radiator back up. Most people just assume a headgasket right away because typically lack or knowledge or testing.

Do a leak down test, if you don't have a setup get a whip from a compression tester and put 100 psi into the cylinder. If you have air coming (bubbles) out of your radiator (take the cap off) then there you have it, blown head gasket. Always test stuff don't take peoples word for it especially with altered cars, typically most problems can seem the same but not identical.

If you don't get bubbles in the coolant (they will come out if it is bad) then replace your radiator cap. Or just replace the cap they can be had for under a whopping $5...

HiProfile

It's fairly obvious you've never experienced head lift issues. Whatever you want to call it, it stems from the head/gasket/block seal around the cylinders unsealing ONLY when there is extremely high pressures in the cylinders. A leakdown test at 150psi won't show much, since it will only leak near peak cyl pressures (over 1k psi). If it's a rad cap, it will bubble while heating up. If it was a blown HG, it would suck coolant into the cylinders as well as expell exhaust into the coolant, start to overheat, and fill the overflow at almost any rpm/psi.

I'd be willing to bet if you turned the boost down, you'll find a point (5psi?)where you can beat the living **** out of it and still have a nearly empty overflow.



The best fix will be to replace the HG and get ARP's. The main problem with Honda motors is idiots reuse the OEM bolts, and sometimes reuse the MLS headgasket. OEM bolts and HG are single-use items, no exceptions! It would be a great idea to check & fix any warpage, but it's unlikely you'll find any.

OneBadTurboCRV

^^ LOL at you, because I posted a generic logical reason to do basic test then to jump in and change a head gasket right away? I never EVER SAID (yes double negative kid) that it could not be head lift. Either way do the basics, because there is no reason to pull off a head just because some clown like HiProfile said to. Do the basic checks first and if you find nothing wrong then venture further.

HiProfile you need to read, he said he HAS ARP Bolts so stop being a douche, thinking you know everything. He asked what would a radiator cap have to do with anything, I answered what the possibility might be.

accord_raffi

Hey hey hey. Let's not turn this thread into an unnecessary flaming thread. HiProfile has helped me out on here in the past (although he may not remember it). But can someone clarify how headlift could cause coolant to overflow? I'm assuming when the seal between the head, block, and gasket is broken some of the built up pressure from the turbo enters the coolant passages and increases the already pressure filled coolant system and thus opens the secondary spring on the rad cap so that the coolant flows in the overflow. I should probably have searched first, but the topic was brought up already so I might as well ask.