I really hope that I do not grenade this block because if I have to clean another one like this, that will realy suck!

I used: Simple Green (full strength), Castrol Super Clean (smells like 409), a toothbrush, a dishwashing brush, an exacto knife, a screwdriver, hot water, and a lot of patience. I didn't do all of this in one sitting, but if I added up all of the time, it's probably around 4 hours.

BEFORE




AFTER




I'm gonna hot-tank it, but in the meantime, I hate working on greasy stuff...it makes everything around it dirty and greasy.

Full-sized pics are here: http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/d16a1/

Sonny


[Modified by Sonny, 10:00 PM 6/19/2002]

 

nice improvement!

 

that thing was crazy dirty. i bet your hands looked all crappy after that.
you should have tried to use gunk

good work tho


[Modified by dirtySOHC's, 6:12 AM 6/20/2002]

 

 

I didn't clean it all in one sitting. I probably did it in about 8 sittings and I wore nitrile plastic gloves, so it wasn't too hard on the hands.

I didn't want to use anything like gunk/gas/etc because I did most of the cleaning late at night inside the garage with the door closed while the wife was sound asleep.

Sonny

 

u never realize how nice it is to have a place to do stuff like that until you loose it. Me and 2 buddies used to rent a 30x40 garage from this old divorced lady near our place... she sold the house and moved into a townhouse... now I dont have ANYWHERE AT ALL to do stuff to my car! it sux!

 

Is This the motor that's going to get worked over for your 250ish HP plan's?

I'm ordering my ZC engine on Friday.

I think you have a pretty good head start on me!! (not that it should be rushed)

I already have my Crower's...yet I still have to buy everything else

How do you like your Roller wave's?(appearance and overall quality I guess) I'm either going with them or custom JE's.

keep us updated!!

Later's
Bryson

 

what works even better is bead blasting. That makes everything freaking perfect. Another way is a wire wheel or brush, and on top of that, a product called aluminum aircraft remover/stripper. I've used all these with great success, and beats the hell out of punishing yourself over several hours.


[Modified by VaporTrail, 4:15 AM 6/20/2002]

 

those fumes from that crap are killer, even thru a damn mask!

 

Bryson: Yeah, that's the one. I'm still deciding if I wanna do a blockguard or posts....I'll probably post it. I've had several people tell me (I haven't personally verified it) that the SOHC D series blockguards will not fit in a DOHC D series engine. A properly installed blockguard (ie, machined to fit, spot welded in, and then a bore/hone job after the blockguard is installed) seems to be a good way to go, but the posts are definitely more DIY friendly (for me). Larry gave me very explicit instructions on where to place the posts, how to make them, how to seal them, etc. So, I think I might try it. These D16A1 blocks are 99 bucks at Pick N Pull...if it doesn't work, I'll go get another one. What blockguard do you plan on using? The only one that seems to be readily available is the Nuformz/Race Eng and I've read several reports from people saying that it didn't fit right (too loose in some areas...too tight in others).

I'm happy with the Endyn pistons and I think engine will like them, too.

Sonny

 

yes a wire brush works real good for the exterior of the block.

 

Could you send me the instructions for posting the block. i just got a complete d16a6 for $100.00 and just about have it cleaned. i'll try to find the pics i have. mine was that dirty too. my goals are about the same as yours. 250 flywheel hp or around 1 bar of boost.

here is the setup:

d16a6 block
8.5 or 8.0:1 arias pistons
Eagle Rods
posting???
y8 intake manifold
14b turbo
zdyne ecu

that's about it so far...any suggestions?

Thanks you guys. Paul

 

this is what i am having to work with. how can you use a wire wheel in the crevices?

 

I don't know if this might be helpful or not. When my dad use to build blocks and heads, there was this tank full of this smelly chemical that he would dip the block or head in. He would leave it over night and when he came back the next day, it was like night and day. The head or block looks brand new! At this time, I really do not know the name of this chemical and I don't think any local auto store carries it. But I know it's pretty expensive and is designed to remove carbon and gunk off of engines. I will check on it for you guys.

 

yeah i know what you are talking about. my machine shop calls it a bath and i am going to pay 40 bucks for them to do it to mine.

 

I recommend using this product called "GUNK - Enginer cleaner/degreaser". Its in a white aerosol can with a orange lid and logo. Sells for like $2.99/ea and 1 can cleans an entire block.

Works very well and only minor scrubbing at the crevices is required.

Just my 0.02. HTH

 

that is what i used on mine but i dont have any after pics. yet* i dont think it is as strong as carb cleaner though.

 

what vaportrail said... bead blasting would make u think the block is brand new... u can literally eat off of it

 

I'd pay a machine shop to "HOT TANK' it, you've get the crud hiding in the water jackets the varnish on the inside of the block and everything. Hell for all the more it costs is it worth all those hours and skinned nuckles when all you clean is the OUTSIDE of the engine.

 

Bead blasting is like sand blasting only with glass beads. it does remove material and gets everywere, oil passages etc. Yes it looks clean because you blasted off the old dirty oxidised metal Got to be real careful when you do that because cleanup is a royal bitch to prep the motor for reassy.



[Modified by virginia_dude, 1:17 PM 6/20/2002]

 

those were the days

 

anyone know where i can get Aircraft Remover in Canada? What EXACT subject should i look under in yellow pages?

 

most autoparts stores should carry it

 

I think I'm still going to try the block gaurd thing in the middle of the bore thing.

I will get it bored out(I have to because of the piston's) after I install it, and will also have it spot welded.

I'm going to get a STR block gaurd. They have MUCH better cooling passages then the Nuformz.

Who ever told you that they wont work in a ZC is full of ****. The actual sleeves are the same size and so is the outer block. My proof that they work? QUICKHONDA, is using a block gaurd in his ZC. I don't know if you have to do minor work to it, but non-the less it works.

Are you still going with the Silvia T-28?

What is the info on the "bigger" T-28 that you said would be good for 300+HP?
It has a ball berring CHRA right?
Does it use a normal T-25 manifold?
If the price is cheeper then 800 bucks for my 16G I might end up going with that one!

Thank's Sonny(the god)

Bryson




[Modified by Bryson, 12:50 PM 6/20/2002]

 

The STR blockguard looks like a better piece than the Nuformz, but who sells it? STR went out of business and the only place that I found online that sells their blockguard has the same part number for the B16/B18 and the D16.

Yes, I'm using the JDM Silvia T28 turbo. I already have it. The larger version of this turbo is the one that comes on the Pulsar GTiR. The GTiR T28 has a .86 a/r exhaust turbine vs the .64 a/r on the Silvia T28. Louis Anaya (aka TurbochargedSER) sells both of them. Or, you can pick up a used Silvia T28 (like I did...it was $490) and later upgrade the turbine housing. Both turbos will fit on the HKS T25 manifold. Both turbos have a water-cooled ball-bearing center section. I am going to use the HKS manifold on my engine.

Sonny


[Modified by Sonny, 10:16 PM 6/20/2002]