Options for my B18C1 Head...need help

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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 07:10 PM
  #1  
thaiphob's Avatar
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Nikon!!!
 
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From: Hell A, CA
Default Options for my B18C1 Head...need help

i recently dropped my block off at a machine shop to get some work done.

B18C1 block
CP 81.5mm 9.0:1 pistons
Eagle Rods
ARP main bolts
ACL bearings

they cleaned it milled the block and assembled it. they told me to bring my head to check to see if it needed to be milled also. they checked it and it does. so they said they were going to need to disassemble. at this point i thought might as well buy springs, retainers and valves. so here is my question:

i was planning on going with a crower package for all. but for the retainers they offer chromoloy or Titanium. is there any benefit of one over the other?
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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 07:13 PM
  #2  
thaiphob's Avatar
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Nikon!!!
 
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From: Hell A, CA
Default Re: Options for my B18C1 Head...need help (thaiphob)

also this will not be a DD so is the crower parts different from supertech, skunk2 etc? i prob wont be pushing over 10psi realistically.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #3  
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Nikon!!!
 
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Default Re: Options for my B18C1 Head...need help (thaiphob)

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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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From: driving a wolf in sheeps skin in, NY
Default

when i had my head milled they didnt need to disassemble it.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 12:26 AM
  #5  
zexxbo's Avatar
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Default Re: (dunkd)

ferrea or skunks are my top choices. you only really need valves, springs and retainers if youre gonna be shifting past 8200rpms. but they definitely never hurt
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 06:30 AM
  #6  
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From: blacksburg, va, usa
Default Re: Options for my B18C1 Head...need help (thaiphob)

I mean if you are really doing all that I would dissasemble the whole head and do it all. Have the machine shop measure your guides to see if there is exxcessive wear (using whole guages and a mic). I used supertech for the springs , rett, valves, and locks. For guides I used ferrea. When you get your head assembled you are going to also need to know what type of angle seat you want cut into your head. 3 angle is standard for cutting valve seats. Depending apon equipment they can get as many as 7 angles on your seat.(What this does is allow for air as it comes in and out to flow much better. )
Really alls that I am getting at is if you are giong to do build your head dont half *** it and then a couple months done the road realize that you want to do something else to it...
If you are just having the head milled then no they should not have to take the valves out of the head. This should also only run you between $15 and $20 dollars to mill the head...
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