So i just finished building my B18C turbo setup. I havnt poured any oil in yet....gonna be using 5-30 for the first 100 miles and change every 20 miles....but after that...what weight oil should i use? my bearing clearances are 0.0001 all across the board. Ive done some research and no one can really give good answers based on clearances..everyone just has opinions....im not interested in what brand....just weight.

 

Surely you didn't mean 20 miles. That seems a little wasteful.

 

the oil is free....id rather be safe than sorry....and i used LOTS of moly lube for assembly.

 

personally, I wouldn't use anything lighter than 10w30 in a boosted motor, as the oil gets heated up significantly in the turbo, thinning it out.

in southern states during the summer, I like running a 10w40 or so just to keep it a little thicker in the heat.

 

I use RP 10w40 in my car for this oil change.


Modified by 96 GSR-T at 2:04 PM 4/25/2008

 

Those bearing clearances are just a wee bit too tight. You would have to be running a very light oil for those clearances.

You should change the oil and filter after the first warm up where you set the ignition timing, check for leaks, bleed the cooling system, and dial in the warm idle ignition timing and air:fuel ratio, not after 20 miles.


Modified by IN VTEC at 3:39 PM 4/24/2008

 

hmmm...so still no definitive answer....yes i know my clearance is tight. its all brand new parts everything standard sizing. i dont know why its so tight...should be 0.00015 but its not lol... will probobly wear down to that after some running though

10 weight seems thick for my clearances....yet you have a good point about the thermal breakdown. tough decisions lol....

 

I use 10w-30 Mobil 1 synthetic every 1500 or so miles. No need to change your oil every 20 miles man. You might not be paying for the oil, but somebody is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">personally, I wouldn't use anything lighter than 10w30 in a boosted motor, as the oil gets heated up significantly in the turbo, thinning it out.

in southern states during the summer, I like running a 10w40 or so just to keep it a little thicker in the heat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if your car stays in the south, you dont even need the 10w40, go for a straight 40, its better. multigrades can never compare to straight oil, but unfortunately for northerners, there is no way around it.

 

was changing oil every 20 iles only for the first 100.... but anyways...yah im up north so i need multiweight. i think im gonna use ryoal purple 10-40

any objections?

 

depends on how often you plan to change it, royal is super expensive, i use valvoline vr1 racing conventional, and I change it every 1500-2000 or so, and at 2.66 a quart its not breaking the bank. I myself prefer more frequently changed conventional oil to less frequently changed synthetic, especially since the vr1 is a racing formula and is well suited to the additional heat associated with turbo setups. not to mention royal purple and some other synthetics tend to leak on some engines for no good reason.

 

well , the good reason is synthetics coat everything with films in cluding gaskets...and the pressure moves that film through gaskets and seals and creates seeping. all syntehtics do that....this motor is freshly rebuilt though. synthetics are less prone to thermal breakdown as well though.... and valvoline doesnt make a 10-40 vr1

 

your clearances seem more than tight enough to have good results with 10w30, which vr1 does come in. btw im not trying to sell the oil, I just have tried pretty much everything and this has worked best for me.

 

be careful with regular RP synthetic, it thins out tremendously.

the RP Race syn is great stuff, but the regular RP syn has been known to thin tremendously and cause problems. Just an FYI.

I've been using pennzoil platinum with excellent results. It has fantastic oil test results over on bob-is-the-oil-guy.

M1 is good but tends to thin a lot, and there's no need to change it every 1500 miles!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be careful with regular RP synthetic, it thins out tremendously.


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10w40 should be safe though correct?

 

10w30 or 10w40 are both good for FI

 

i use pennzoil platinum 10w30 every 1500 or so miles.

 

i think i will try that VR1 10-30...ill let u guys know hwo it goes.

 

IIRC VR1 only comes in straight weight. I can't find VR1 in anything less than a straight 50 weight around here unfortunately.

 

can you special order from autozone?

 

i will probobly SO through a jegs catalog or somethin.

 

just be careful with jegs because they have a handling fee, with them its 4.99/qt and a $10 fee with "free shipping" so be sure not to defeat the purpose of the whole low cost option. That happens to be why I am currently running straight 50wt vr1 as we speak because it is on the shelf at autozone, but it did cost me some power on the *** dyno, and turbo spools up about 500 rpm later than with 30wt! Im looking for someone who stocks the 30wt, and if i find who I will post!