2ndgenteg-md

Ok, got my block back from GE last week (looks beautiful btw ) Now that I have it back I have started assembling the engine again. Well tonight I was putting on the oil squirters, after looking in the haynes manual for my engine (gsr) it said torque specs on the oil squirter bolts was 80 lbs/ft. Now im pretty sure this is not correct (lugnuts are torqued at ~80 lbs) so I gave them about 20. The first three were fine and tight, then I got to cylinder #1... The damn oil squirter bolt stripped the threads in the block Now im no genius but this does not seem like a good thing, and I havent the slightest ******* clue what I can do about it, lol. If anyone has done this before and can shed some light on my situation I would GREATLY appreciate it

boosted3g

I would jsut pull the other 3 and tig the holes shut. I never run oil squirters in any high output motor.

2ndgenteg-md

Well, I don't claim to be einstein (hell my dumbass couldnt even put the oil squirter bolts on without screwing it up) but I always saw the oil squirters as one of the good points of the vtec motor. They are already plumbed into my block -- why would I weld them shut ? Don't get me wrong I am grateful for you trying to help me out, I am just biased toward the gsr I guess. Any b18c owners out there opinions ?

c1hatch

why is that?

boosted3g

i do it for more oil pressure, i have however stuck squirters in a B18B block and it worked fine. At this point the only thing you can really do is tig them shut or helicoil them

2ndgenteg-md

also, out of curiousity -- whats your reasoning for not wanting to run them in a high output motor ?

dustin

You sure it didn't say 80 in-lbs ?

2ndgenteg-md

yea, thats what my friend told me to do -- where can one obtain these helicoils ?

boostaholic

Most auto parts stores should have them, sometimes they're in the back so you may have to ask for them. Make sure you use the right size.
And i'm with Dustin on that one, i think your manual said 80 inch-lbs, not ft-lbs. It's really easy to get those mixed up. Just make sure you take in account the size and function of the bolt/nut you're torqueing down before breaking out the torque wrench.





[Modified by boostaholic, 3:58 AM 9/25/2002]

earl

Oil squirters were made to keep cast aluminum stock pistons cool. Not necessary for forged pistons. I always plug them. Helps oil pressure, less oil flying around in the pan and less rotating mass by closing them. I would use a plug and not weld them as you could distort your block. You can get heli-coils at any good autoparts store and some hardware stores.

2ndgenteg-md

hmm, I never thought of it that way. So since they are forged and not aluminum they can take more heat and you want them to heat up faster initially ? This is good stuff -- So to "plug" it, do you just weld the hole shut in the bolt that the oil flows through to get to the squirter ?

BTW -- Dustin you are right it was in/lbs

earl

It's the difference between CAST aluminum (stock) and FORGED aluminum (stronger aftermarket).
Plug them rather than weld them.

earl

BTW, 80 inch pounds is about 6 1/2 foot pounds. Lucky you didn't snap or strip all the bolts.
ALSO IMPORTANT, if you try to install the heli-coil yourself, remember you are drilling into the main oil galley of your engine. Any metal particles getting into there will be circulated thru your whole motor. If one of those bolts were to come loose, you would lose 90% of your oil pressure.

SEFIxCivic

whats a good plug for that hole earl? know where i can get one?

Flamenco-T

first of all, get rid of your haynes and get Helms. I wouldn't dare taking a motor apart without helms, you have a common sense, 80lbs/ft is wayyyyy to big....where's your head ? I am sorry for saying this...but it's just plain dumb to me...

I need to go get my helms in the garage, but I am sure it's less than 15lb/ft for each one and you need to have it EXACTLY correct to make sure it lines up. I stopped on my first click...

as a safety precaution, I mark the ends of the hole on the bolt to make sure the holes are lining up with the squirter as well...

you can re-tap it, I believe the thread is 6mmx1.0, double check it to make sure...

use the squirter, it's there...if you're gonna plug it up, do it right as well, if the plug is loose, you'll lose shitload of oil pressure...so tap it first then plug it up or re-install the squirters...

stan

2ndgenteg-md

thanks for all your help guys, I will have my machine shop have a look at it. BTW Flamenco-NA, I think I realized 80 was too much thats why I used a hand wrench to tighten them first to see how much it seemed like they could take, then I used ~15-20 lbs/ft with my air wrench. I guess you are perfect and have never made a mistake Ill post up here how it turns out. BTW Earl, what do you plug the squirter bolts with ?

Flamenco-T

I am not perfect and I have made mistakes, but not dumb mistakes. You know how hard it is to torque a bolt down to 80 lb/ft of torque, that's a lug nut torque rating. Where was your head when you were torqueing the oil squirter bolt ? and BTW, you don't use an air wrench for 15~20 lb/ft of torque...

just my $ .02

PS: is this another joke of the U shaped metal on the stock rods ? if so, it's twice in a week...damn, I have been here for a while and seen a lot, but this is classic...

earl

Just use a pipe threaded plug with an allen head. Very hard to tap the hole because of the tiny working area. I've heard of guys using a tiny freeze plug but have no experience with that.

TurboDANDEE

how much oil pressure does it really add when u plug the squirters?

racerxadam

Would you also reccomend plugging the squirters on a high output street motor?