I know a lot of people using the gasket. when you use the proper torque sequence on the pan studs (really using nothing but studs on the pan is the best way) and you have a pan where the flange isn't warped or damaged it won't leak. plus you have to remember that their oil pan gasket is infinitely reusable providing you don't damage it. so really it is fairly cheap when you consider the cost of multiple OEM gaskets when they start to leak.

plus that cost includes an oil pan stud kit.


honestly most pcv valves leak in the first place, so under boost the crankcase is being pressurized slightly... and after a lot of heat cycles and moderate boost levels they start to leak worse.

 

No, it's $80 for the gasket and stud kit. I see your point in the reusable part though.

 

In defense of the gasket I used it on a Moroso Oil pan which is notorious for leaking. At least thats what I found doing research. To bad I did the research AFTER I bought the pan. I took it off and just modified the stock pan and had much better luck. I am really concentrating on doing the catch can mod now I am just waiting for the parts to come in the mail now. It's nothing fancy but it worlds better than what I have now.

Another quick question. I have the stud kit and it is installed all the way around except the 3 bolts buy the crank shaft pulley as the holes go completely through so the studs can not torque down correctly so I just used the stock bolts instead of switching over. How do you run the studs in this case? Or should it be fine?

 

Use blue or red loctite on the end of the studs that go into the holes. give it time to cure then torque it down.

I've never had good luck with Moroso pans, I don't know if it's because they do nothing to prevent the flange from warping during welding and never deck the flange or if they just have very porous welds.

canton makes a really nice b series pan that doesn't leak, ever.

 

My turbo b16 at about 275whp has been through 3 pan gaskets. Ive tried every possible combination of gasket dry, hondabond, rtv etc. Even swapped pans. Same situation on my DA b18 beater. 4 gasket jobs 0n that. Im very picky about my cars. I like zero leaks. Finally bit the bullet and just installed the myhondahabbit gasket and stud kit on my turbo b16. Cleaned very well, dab of hondabond in corners and torque to spec and sequence. Let sit empty for 3 days to cure. 3 weeks now and not a drip in sight. Ill pay 60 for that gasket all day long over paying 20 for oem 7 times. Just my personal experience.

 

I bought both the stud kit and gasket like you and did everything and it was no better than any other gasket. I am convinced it is a pressure issue as I have no catch can set up and am running off of stock ventilation set up. If it is not that than it would be an issue with my oil pump seal to the block. I do not feel it has to do with the gasket. I can get the gasket to seal, actually multiple gaskets I can get to seal. The problem starts AFTER I boost it. The only variable that could make it do that would be added pressure. Even if it was the oil pump it would do it right after start up or close to it. I can let the car run for 10min after installing a new gasket at idle and it is bone dry. I can even drive it out of boost and it doesnt leak. Only when I put the boost to it does the problem happen.

The biggest key of knowledge that i have learned is making sure ALL surfaces are dry COMPLETELY (Block, Gasket,Pan) when going to torque down. Oil is a lube so if there is any amount than all it does is slip the gasket out when you go to tighten. The drier it is the better torque and seal you get. My thought is the gasket has some absorption properties to it so you have a bit more wiggle room in terms of how dry everything needs to be.

Per their (Hondahabit) website "it will absorb oil and swell causing a greater seal." They also say " The OEM oil pan seal was designed for the factory engine specifications, meaning that modifications the engine that result in higher crankcase pressures can cause the soft rubber oil seal to shift off the flange and "blow out" causing a leak. Even engines that have an external oil catch can and breather system can suffer from this problem." Doesn't mean it definitely will but them putting that in there tells me that it could be a cause. Oh and I also trust wantboost advice. (lil *** kissing lol)

So it very well may be a combination of the 2 things.

 

Its not the boost. Its oil pressure going up when you are revving the car up under load. Check the oil pump seals and main.


Your picture of the location is EXACTLY where i thought oil was coming from when I was tracking my "oil pan leak" issue down. Did the moroso stud kit, honda gasket, felpro gasket etc.

 

I am on a bone stock ventilation system. Im running a heavier weight oil now with summer temps on the way as well. Oil pressure hot idle is about 25 and when reving im hitting around 90 or better. No leak so far. I wont sit here a say that that fancy gasket was the cure but its not leaking lol as long as it doesnt leak it doesnt matter why haha

 

What weight oil do you run and what power are you making? I am running 10w40 now conventional, I change oil too often to go synthetic. I am just going with a basic set up nothing super expensive. Not quite Ebay cheap but close lol I am going with a VMS v2 catch can http://www.vms-racing.com/productsin...ateID=4&ID=534

 

You still need to remove that line to the pcv right away and cap the im port off. I'm willing to bet the leak stops after that.

 

x2

I highly doubt a little plastic flapper valve can hold any real positive pressure...

 

nothing wrong with the black box, it's nothing but a baffle to catch oil, you can leave it inline with the new catch can, but a pcv won't work under boost, you could continue to use one, but you need a positive check valve in line to stop boost from back flowing through it, PCV valves are often terrible at sealing, and definitely won't hold boost, you could do what I did for my non boost setup, T off of the catch can with one side going to a collecter evacuation setup, that has it's own check valve, and a pcv off the other side, with a good check valve in line, one works best at lower rpms and one at higher rpms, The only issue with this would be possible emissions, but a good baffled catch can, should trap any oil before the evacuation bung,

 

Exactly. pcv valves inherently leak under positive pressure. their design and the materials used can't survive it. I've even had new ones leak.

they might work well on OEM na cars or turbo cars where the pcv line is routed to the turbo inlet but they do not like positive pressure against the check valve

 

these andair valves are really good, but they aren't cheap, the reason I ran my pcv in line with a check valve, is pcv valves are really supposed to meter crankcase evacuation, I suppose I could have run the straight check valve, if you ran a pcv and one of these check valves, it would positively stop boost from going into the crankcase, but that doesnt solve the issue of crankcase evacuation while under boost, thats why I suggested the double setup. One would function under boost, and one when not under boost

 

I'm amazed I haven't seen you around some of the meets in Atlanta

 

I want to have this car up and running by next season, and I may be coming up that way to visit, I have family there,so I can hit some shows

 

the reason I ran the extra check valve on a N/A car, I was concerned that under WOT with high vacuum at the header, and low vacuum in the intake, that the evac system might pull raw charge out of the intake manifold back through the pcv and into the exhaust

 

Yea I plan too just waiting for catch can and a couple of bits to come in the mail. The car isnt a daily driver and is just sitting in my garage now. I plan on doing what you said and eliminating the PCV. I do not have a black box on my motor, it's a JDM from HMotors as far as that goes.

I am going to vent from one -8 AN port from the oil cap to the one port (main port on can). And the place where I have the breather filter now I will run a hose to vent to the other port on the catch can. From the design of the can I bought it looks like that would be a correct way to do it.While I know there are much better ways I am not going to drop $300-$500 on a top of the line set up as I think for my power goals that would be over kill.

 

you don't need to drop that much into it, you can design an effective system for far less