I have a turbo built d16z6 if it matters. But I've noticed my oil pressure has dropped over the last month or so. Not to sure if its the summer heat affecting it or what. So is it normal that i'm at 3k (forgot the speed but i think 65) and my oil pressure is at 24-26 psi? I heard about the rule of thumb that is 10psi per 1,000 rpm but I've noticed im 4psi shy from it. When warmed up i'm at idle it's 9psi and a cold start i start at 60psi Is my oil pump going bad? Im currently using royal purple 10w30 but do i need to move it up to 10w40? Or should i get a new better or even better is this normal during the summer weather? I'm driving down to florida within a month so I would like to figure out all this before the drive.

 

Your oil pressure is very low. How's that? 9 psi at idle is very low. You have a problem.

 

What oil flter?

 

How old is the oil pump? I'd look at this article regarding your oil pump and other tips/tricks for your D-series build, and see if you and your installer are following these. The 1st thing mentioned is the oil pump. There's always been an efficiency problem with those especially for turbo D-series that needs to be addressed

The Old One - Energy Dynamics : Articles

 

What brand, and what weight oil are you using?

Edit: nevermind.

You need to run heavier oil.

 

well it's an eBay oil pump so I think that can be part of it but I changed it in December.

 

Yeah... bad choice. Get an OEM one and perform Endyn's upgrade. Damned eBay strikes again.

 

hahaha sadly, once i replace it you think i should go to 10w40 instead of 10w30?

 

Won't really matter between the two, just funny use the MOBIL 1 version of either weight.

 

If you are talking synthetic, I would avoid Mobil 1. Stuff burns off way to quick. In recent discussions with people who follow the oil research, the best synthetic is actually Pennzoil. Kinda funny being back in the day Pennzoil was considered crap oil and Mobil 1 was the top dog.... Guess that's not the way it is now a days.

I can vouch for high oil consumption with Mobil 1, it's what we pumped at a job I had a couple of years back so I was using it and could not figure out why my oil consumption was so bad. Then switched to any other brand and my consumption was cut in half. I was trying Mobil 1's extended performance so I could go 20,000 Kilometers between changes thinking I'd save money in the long run, not so much. Went through a second 5 quart jug before I hit 10,000 Kilometers and dumped the oil to switch to generic conventional oil that actually went the 5K without issue.

 

Yes.but I meant both rypes of MOBIL1. I tend to use Brad Penn in my project cars, and Pennzoil on my daily turbo car

 

so I replaced the oil pump with an oem from Honda and still same issue

 

It appears you didn't read the ENDYN article as it talks about porting the oil pump to fix known oiling deficiencies, especially for added stress turbo systems.

 

Exactly. Condition 1 was to get the OEM pump. Condition 2 still needs to be done. The Endyn alternation needs to be performed.

 

not disputing the porting, I think its a great idea. But are you sure your gauge is reading properly. seems with a OEM pump you should have decent oil pressures

 

On B/H/K, yes. on D-series, they get fickle. This porting is almost a necessity for those guys from my experience.

 

could potentially be an issue in the bottom end? also how are you measuring oil pressure? i had a gauge in my car at one point that was an electronic sending unit. thing read next to no oil pressure at idle, and was not accurate really at any rpm due to the multiple factors, but i think the solid mounts have a poor effect on the sending units with vibration and such. i switched to an auto meter mechanical with a steel braided line and its killer accurate. ide advise to at least check it with a mechanical gauge, even if its not permanent.

 

I have a autometer with electrical sending unit, solid mounts and works just fine

 

I went with 10w40 and oil stabilizer and the problem was fixed his oil pressure is fine

 

im sure autometer is better than what i had. i was running glowsh** gauges. swapped all of them out for mechanical autometers.

glad to hear problem was "fixed". i don't think that thicker oil and a thick stabilizer is a "repair" to a low oil pressure complaint. will work for now but you may consider actually sourcing the problem. if the motor was assembled with this heavier oil in mind, that is one thing. But if its a stock motor and your dropping oil pressure, just thicker oil is not a long term repair. in my opinion.

 

I agree with this

 

Thanks guys, it's not a stock motor. I built it a about 4 years ago. I'm trying to remember the size of my bearings but I'm not 100% sure

 

I just reread your original post. If you just started having issues that points to deeper concerns. Maybe wise to drop the pan and pull a cap and maybe check a bearing or 2. Maybe pull you oil filter and cut it open? Hate to see it get worse and really do more damage and cost more in the long run.

 

not a bad idea at all. even if you have to replace some bearings now it could save you the motor in the long run. Funny you guys mention the mobil1 consumption thing. I just changed the oil in my new tacoma and those guys on the forums were hating pretty good on mobil1 going to **** the last few years.

the autometer electric sending units are utter garbage. I went through i think 3 of them over a few years before i just went with a mechanical gauge.
when did the sohc's start to have or notice issues with the oil pumps? I had a stock block in '04 and a vitara build in '09 both on stock pumps and i dont remember there being much conversation on oil pump deficiencies...(im not saying dont do the endyn mod)

 

I only noticed it from a few higher HP builds over 400whp on the d-series that seemed to need the ENDYN Oil pump mod. Not so much for the lower HP Vitara builds. But again, this is only second hand experience from people who thought they were experiencing problems related to the turbocharger, and it turned out to be the oil pump ..