I read up awhile back about running t's off the back of a block and how it can be bad that you should run a flexable hose to the t's that are mounted to the firewall or something, not directly off the block.
Dont know if thats true or not, but I really dont want to find out the hard way...

So I was thinking instead of running like two ugly brass t fittings that are linked together via a pipe nipple that I could make a 'oil manifold'. Just using a 1/4" hyd line, with #4 jic ends into a billet aluminum block that was pipethreaded on one side, with 3 ports comming out the horizontal, one for stock pressure, one for my oil temp, one for my oil temp gauge.

Is this a good idea or bad idea or should I just tee it off the back of my block :/

If aluminum is not a good idea, should I just make it out of steel?

I dont want to waste my time machining up a manifold for nothing, but I suppose I could turn it into a vacuum manifold at the least lol..

Just trying to finish my build. Need to finish fabbing up my downpipe, and testpipe real quick, modify my intercooler piping and just that and I am done until I receive my tuning stuff :/

Thanks!

 

Many people have broken the block where the fitting goes in.The flex line helps keep this from happening.If you ran the line to an aluminum manifold on the firewall that would work fine.Also the oil temp should be taken in the pan.

 

oh yea?

i guess thats cause it will cool down with an inaccurate reading by the time it hits my firewall mounted manifold?

Now where should I locate it, I can weld a steel bushing on the pan with 1/4" pipe thread or something, and just put the sending unit right to the pan? Thanks for the input.

 

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I've since changed it to a 3/8" copper tube and just a brass Tee, with a 1/8" NPT port to make it a Cross. I did that to keep oil pressure readings accurate.

Its basicly a 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adapter (drilled out for max flow), NPT to tube compression, the 3/8" line, the compression to the Tee. I took a 1/4" hex cap, drilled it out & tapped it with 1/8" BSPT threads for the stock oil sensor cause I'm like that. FYI it was cheaper than an ebay 'unfiltered oil' sandwich adapter, a fraction of a GE adapter, and works fine. Its a bit tough getting the line to bend just right unless you have a mock-up motor like me.

 

nice, I like that!

I may mount my mine in that location, I don't have the 'manifold bracket' on the back of the block, so I should have plenty of room I hope lol.

 

Actually, since the d16z6 mani has 2 extra spots next to that bracket's holes, I just drilled/tapped the manifold. I do not suggest self-tappers on thick aluminum, too soft & thick. I was also thinking of a sheetmetal bracket that used 2 existing mount points, but I had the taps & magnesium (thats why the bracket its grey), so I stuck it on that way.

BTW a good source for small amount of 3/8" copper tube is a faucet supply line. Just be careful of kinks, you can get a spring-like coil for bending the tube tightly if needed at any 'home improvement' store like home cheapo.

btw #2, nylon/poly tube will severly loose strength above 220F, and a hot turbo honda can cook oil to 240F. Use nylon at your own risk for [supply] tubing that will constantly move hot oil, rather than hold hot oil like the gauge lines.

 

Ah, I work with hydraulics and all at work, so we have a variety of dichromate tubing and such. I hate doing the small tubes, thier a bitch to get lined up and all lol.

Yeah I hate self tappers, I really do not like to use them :/

Wel, I am going to run to a little auto cross then I am going to make up all this stuff, so I will try to post pics of what I come up with tonight.