When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
those Ebay fans are crap, trust me I have tried a few trying to save money. They wont push anywhere near what they claim even the ones that claim more. The spal does at least double what the ebay fan did I think my spal is rated arround 1400cfm and worth every penny
Originally Posted by justYncredible
Mac did you post a picture that had an extension of sleeved tape kit or something among that line?
its just you, and no pictures cant contain viruses
So after overheating yesterday on the highway and having to drive 30 minutes home with the heat on full blast, I've decided to yank the A/C and the dinky half radiator. I pulled the condenser last night. It's amazing how much that opened things up.
First of all, just so you know, I was starting to overheat even with the two row radiator BEFORE turbo (granted, 95F+). This all started when I pre-mounted the bar & plate intercooler. I had the intercooler mounted two weeks before I started putting the rest of the turbo kit on. The design of the bar & plate intercooler is causing a blockage up front but I really don't want to change the intercooler. But to make matters worse, I cannot even use the two row because of the size of the turbo compressor. There's just no wiggle room in a CRX.
I'm going with the 85 VW scirocco radiator upgrade. It's time to go BIG or go home. Basically, the scirocco radiator fits exactly where the a/c condenser would go which is under the hood latch support. It takes a little modification but offers more than double the capacity of what I'm using currently and frees up a few inches of room in the engine bay. Throw one or two SPAL fans on it and say goodbye to overheating.
That's a good plan. Remember to put in good HONDA OEM COOLANT. That makes it that much cooler, than the "green" stuff from Peak/Prestone/O'Reilly's/Supertech.
That's a good plan. Remember to put in good HONDA OEM COOLANT. That makes it that much cooler, than the "green" stuff from Peak/Prestone/O'Reilly's/Supertech.
I've found over the years that either HONDA OEM, or TOYOTA "PINK" (pre-diluted 50/50) are the best coolants to use in FI street terror monsters. I even swapped out the Motorcraft coolant to OEM Honda coolant in my turbo Focus. That's how committed I am to running these coolants. No Evans "waterless" coolant yet, but perhaps in another build at some other time.
I did not notice much of a difference, however I will continue to use the blue anyway
There's no difference in power or initial drivability, but I've noticed easily 4-8 degrees in its use before using any water wetter, and smoother driveability on Hot/Humid days where it counts.
I always take more notice of the little things when it comes to my cooling needs. It tends to add up over time, but again, this is from my experience in my car and several others over the years.
So.....um, cough, cough... i, uh, uhh, hmmmm.. discovered my fan wires were, yeah.. reversed.
That's the short version. First, you must know I am the type that goes far above and beyond to make sure things are right. I checked and had what felt like blowing/pulling through radiator. When I put my hand in front of the fan, it was blowing, but I guess it was the turbulence around that area. I kept noticing how hot the bumper was when I'd lean against it, "hmmm, that's odd...", I thought.. No way.. yes, the fan was pushing back through radiator, not pulling. That explains why it was going nuts on the highway. The fan and high airflow coming in were competing. It's been running this way since I put in the dinky little single row half radiator. So now I'm starting to wonder how it would be if I put all the A/C mess back on. IDK, I've already ordered the 85 VW radiator, hoses, etc needed to do that. To keep A/C, or not to keep A/C... I mean, it is just a luxury and something else that could break and be in the way, right?
Last edited by mrdrpep; 09-16-2016 at 06:32 AM.
Reason: more explanation
My ef hatch bay is incredibly cramped. I can't see how retaining ac in these cars is possible. I'm also using a skunk2 ef rad and a Spal 1350 as a pusher from the front. Zero overheating issues, and I drive it in 100 degree NC heat.
My ef hatch bay is incredibly cramped. I can't see how retaining ac in these cars is possible. I'm also using a skunk2 ef rad and a Spal 1350 as a pusher from the front. Zero overheating issues, and I drive it in 100 degree NC heat.
I hear you, I grew up and lived in eastern NC (New Bern) for 20 years. In fact, that's where I started my first CRX turbo project when I was 17... that car got me into some trouble I'm in Nashville TN now and can tell you it's about the same. I have actually reached the moment of where I can see that it's possible... but man, it is a serious challenge with a big ol T3/T4. I'm pretty sure I can make it happen but I love how much more room I have to turn a wrench without it in the way.
Time to have a hard line made up. I melted another oil supply line tonight. It all started after I put a turbo blanket on, which you think would prevent the problem, but i thi k thwre was a gap on the back which funneled all the heat up, right into the supply line. I've had it going for weeks with no trouble. It was dumping oil on turbo. Not terrible but oil on hot turbo smokes like mad. Crazy thing is, I let it cool down, took the turbo blanket off and drove home with no problem. I guess the melted nylon core of the line resolidified and sealed itself.
Yes, this was a $15 ebay oil supply line. So, let me get that out of the way. I want a solid line made up. Are all the stainless lines out there nylon core?
Yes, this was a $15 ebay oil supply line. So, let me get that out of the way. I want a solid line made up. Are all the stainless lines out there nylon core?
Try not to over think this. A good stainless braided oil line ( similar to those used in aftermarket brake line kits) with a thermal sleeve well do the job.
B&R fittings does fantastic work for oil feed lines. Email them about it, as well as adding a thermal sleeve to the line. They can supply it all
Try not to over think this. A good stainless braided oil line ( similar to those used in aftermarket brake line kits) with a thermal sleeve well do the job.
Part of my problem is the angle I'm having to come in at. It sandwiches right under the manifold and just barely above turbo housing. The line is literally about 3/4" from the turbine housing. I'm not doing this job again. Here's my solution:
It's a turbo oil supply line from TDI VW I did an engine swap on and it's THICK steel. It's much thicker than a brake line. I'm flaring the end with AN4 to adapt to one of the PTFE (teflon/stainless) B&R oil supply lines. It will also be bolted directly to the motor where the power steering would go so it's vibrating with the motor. If this melts, the world has ended.
QUESTION:
Since I'll have to do away with my oil restrictor at the turbo inlet because of the banjo fitting, can I simply put the oil restrictor directly on the oil sending unit pre-oil supply line on the back of the block? I'm not talking about on the 1/8" BSP fitting but on the 3-way tree where the 1/8" NPT branches off to the oil supply line. It would just mean that the whole oil supply line would be at a lower volume/flow of oil instead of limiting it right before turbo.
QUESTION:
Since I'll have to do away with my oil restrictor at the turbo inlet because of the banjo fitting, can I simply put the oil restrictor directly on the oil sending unit pre-oil supply line on the back of the block? I'm not talking about on the 1/8" BSP fitting but on the 3-way tree where the 1/8" NPT branches off to the oil supply line. It would just mean that the whole oil supply line would be at a lower volume/flow of oil instead of limiting it right before turbo.
No. I highly discourage that approach. Many have tried and failed at that approach thinking "well, a restriction is a restriction, who cares where it's at?", only to starve the turbocharger very soon in its future, because the restriction was At the oil line itself, and was not providing enough fluid backpressure to reach the oil passes and properly lubricate the journal bearings. The restriction (the better term should be regulation) needs to be at the oil feed fitting itself.
Part of my problem is the angle I'm having to come in at. It sandwiches right under the manifold and just barely above turbo housing. The line is literally about 3/4" from the turbine housing. I'm not doing this job again.
Pics?
This doesent sound that abnormal really at all, I used a 90* fitting on the turbo side my situation sounds similar to what you are dealing with
No. I highly discourage that approach. Many have tried and failed at that approach thinking "well, a restriction is a restriction, who cares where it's at?", only to starve the turbocharger very soon in its future, because the restriction was At the oil line itself, and was not providing enough fluid backpressure to reach the oil passes and properly lubricate the journal bearings. The restriction (the better term should be regulation) needs to be at the oil feed fitting itself.
I could have the restrictor in the banjo bolt itself, but I would like to research this more. That's why I asked because I thought about that. I've searched and found a few old threads where people have used the restrictor pre-line with no (apparent) problems. I could see how it would be a problem if we were trying to push the oil at a different elevation where you're fighting against gravity, but not fluidly through a pipe with no pressure/gravitational restrictions (?) I just don't know. I'd love to see an actual test done of this. One way to do it would be to measure the amount of oil coming out of the oil drain line for a certain amount of time at a given oil pressure.
Originally Posted by 2kdrift
This doesent sound that abnormal really at all, I used a 90* fitting on the turbo side my situation sounds similar to what you are dealing with
I think nylon vs PTFE (Teflon) is what's making the difference. I've been using ss braided hose with nylon core and I'm seeing PTFE advertised on others. It has a higher temperature rating. Not much really, but probably enough for people to get by with. I'm not risking it near the turbine housing any more though. I've been stranded once, and almost had a fire so it's steel for me. I've already got the AN4 fitting brazed on. The brazing using silver solder is good up to about 850-900F but's it's also going to be removed away from the housing a good bit. Also, the oil running through the line helps keep the temperature regulated, but either way, I feel much better about it. Few pics of it:
I'll try and get a pic of mine today. I used a 90 degree coming of the turbo and ran it under the distributor side to the sandwich plate.
Zero issues so far, and it's really cramped on the turbo end.
If I came from that side I could have avoided the issues I'm having. I had a turbo crx for 13 years with the same oil supply line.. never had a problem until this setup. Again, I think it's the nylon but I now have the steel line connected. I did away away with the banjo and have basically an an4 extension pipe. It's also mounted to the engine block so it doesn't move at all. I'll post a pic when I can.
Buddy of mine suggested running the line on that side. I see it all the time on the cam gear side, but it just seemed to make sense to avoid all the plastics and mount if I ever needed to service them.
09-12-2016, 11:35 AM
Re: Oil Feed / Return line configuration feedback
