hollaback6

hey guys i am trying to decide which oil to use because i am in the process of turboing my car. I have a b18b. I used mobil synthetic blend before. I was thinking either mobil 1 syn, mobil 1 syn blend, or valvoline racing oil. What do you guys think?

BoostedSi

I 've been using castrol gtx 10w30 for 2 years.

abraunb16

Oil discussion get crazy on H-T.com. I remember the last topic was like 15 plus pages and took me a couple days of reading at work. I then emailed one of the more knowledgable guys and discussed it even further. He came to a conclusion that the Penzoil Heavy Duty Diesel oil(15/40w) would be the best since it has a high level of Moly and anti-corrosives. It's been used on my first setup and now with my new build, seems to work well in high temps and I don't burn a drop even running it hard in high temps. He also stated he liked Redline, also has high Moly levels and a oil called Schaeffer I believe. Best of luck, BTW the Penzoil is dirt cheap compared to the others. Later Allen

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

If you're going turbo, you want an oil with a high flash point. For over the counter dino oil, in my opinion nothing beats Castrol GTX. I was at Wal Mart today and they sell 5 quart jugs of it for less than $7.

If you buy dino oil, or even a synthetic, it's better to stay away from oils that have too much of a weight difference. 10w30 is the most stable. Believe it or not, the "w" doesn't stand for weight, but winter. The 10 represents the cold flow and the 30 is operating temperature. When you have weights like 5w30, 40 or 50, the oil company has to add more polymers that cause the oil to thicken as it warms up.

With synthetic, this isn't as important. However, we all know about the Castrol vs Mobil lawsuit concerning the use of the word "synthetic." Castrol was the first company to use a cheaper basestock dino oil and synthetically "de-wax" (whatever that means) the oil. Castrol managed to con the judge with this technical mumbo jumbo and actually won the right to continue to use the word synthetic on their packaging, even though it's not a true synthetic. Well, as you can imagine, this opened a can of worms. Valvoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc. and some say even Mobil themselves took the "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em" philosophy, although Mobil denies this. The original Mobil 1 formula was fantastic and didn't need any improving. Mobil came out with Tri-Synthetic, and there were accusations all over the internet that this was no longer a true synthetic. People had problems with this oil. I had problems with this oil. It burned up too easily for me using 5w30 on a properly broken in, yet new Civic EX. Then, what seemed like just a year later, Mobil introduced Mobil 1 Supersyn. Whether the Tri-Synthetic or Supersyn are true synthetics, no one knows, but Mobil clearly fixed something as evidenced by oil analysis results posted on bobistheoilguy (http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi). I think the Supersyn is OK, but they lost me as a customer for changing a good thing for no reason other than corporate greed after the Exxon/Mobil merger. I used to buy the original Mobil 1 for $2.88/quart! In some stores it's over $5 now! I use Redline 10w30 because it's not that much more money, uses a true synthetic basestock and a good additive package. Amsoil's higher end oils are also excellent, but their extended drain interval claims are complete bullshit. Schaeffer oil is supposed to be good, but I don't know of anyone who's using it on a turbo car. Come to think of it, I've never even heard of Schaeffer until I found that website! There are other other oils I haven't mentioned and small companies like NEO synthetic, which I know nothing about.

Final opinion: Over the counter dino - Castrol GTX (even though they started the non-synthetic/synthetic scam); Over the counter synthetic - Mobil 1; Specialty synthetic - Redline.

abraunb16

Dammit, Evil Beaver! Just when I thought it was safe to go back in the oil. That site is a killer you could read for days and still be confused. I originally spoke to a guy that Bob was cool with and they had a lot of stuff the agreed on. So I ask point blank for my application(high heat, boost)what he would run. He started with Redline, but at $4.80 a quart is to much, then the Schaeffer, then Amsoil, then the cheap route since I'm **** and change frequently, Pennzoil Long Life/Heavy Duty Diesel oil. Man I'm pissed I even went to that site again, I spent the last several minutes reading the John Deere oil question and a few others. I would also encourage others to read up, you spend thousands on a motor, turbo, engine management, but then just put whatever brand X oil in your car. A little reading and you could save yourself in the long run. Later Allen

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

Where can you get Redline for $4.80/quart? That's cheaper than any price I've seen! That is a great forum, isn't it? Why did you mention that you are pissed?

Snafu-Si

I'm using 15W-50, seems to work pretty well, and my oil pressure is back to normal. It depends on wheather or not my oil leak decides to come back or not. I'm leaking about a teaspoon a day right now.