notching girdle/block and clearance

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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 08:17 AM
  #1  
one-cam's Avatar
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From: iowa
Default notching girdle/block and clearance

i just notch(ed) my block and had my motor build to the right spec but when i put the girdle on there is much clearance between the arp bolt on the rod and girdle. they are eagle rods. when i received the kit it said in the discription that i should notch the girdle also but there is clearance. i know that theres heat but not enough for the rod to expand. as u can see i marked it already should i do it anyways?
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 08:18 AM
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one-cam's Avatar
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From: iowa
Default Re: notching girdle/block and clearance (one-cam)

i searched around for the torque spec for girdle bolts but cannot find it anywhere... anyone?
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 08:39 AM
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Default

you should notch the girdle. i have a z6 and eagle rods and mine is notched. mine was really close, like touching. sometimes you dont have to but alot of times you do.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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Default



i have about an 1/8in clearance on my a6. im also considering a light notching. havnt decided...

having the excess oil scraped from the crank is very desirable...
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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Default Re: (welfarepc)

Hey those are the 3/8" eagle arp ver.

you have to notch alot. Well i know on my motor i had to.




I had about 1/16" clearence i think. Ill find more pics.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 07:27 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: (JDMCRX)

If you want to check for clearence give them 1/16" someway add 1/16" to the them or if there not torqued down leave one back out at 1/16" and spin the motor over and see if it hits. Do this on each bolt to make sure. its peace of mind.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 09:22 PM
  #7  
one-cam's Avatar
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From: iowa
Default Re: (JDMCRX)

well i can rotate the crank and none of the arps are hitting the girdle but i will notch anyways just to stay on the safe side

try not to forget to notch the oil pumpp also
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 09:52 PM
  #8  
JDMCRX's Avatar
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Default Re: (one-cam)

What do you mean by the oil pump ???
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 11:22 PM
  #9  
one-cam's Avatar
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From: iowa
Default Re: (JDMCRX)

ill be posting a picture soon of how i did mine. i meant how to make the oil hole bigger/wider on the oil pump for better oil flow
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 02:19 AM
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From: CT
Default Re: (one-cam)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one-cam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ill be posting a picture soon of how i did mine. i meant how to make the oil hole bigger/wider on the oil pump for better oil flow</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bigger hole = more flow = less pressure. Be careful with that one....
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:21 AM
  #11  
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Default Re: (tepid1)

I did my oil pump.


If you look in the oil filter housing the oil is feed threw the left to right well when it goes into the bottom of the housing there is a 90 deg turn the oil has to make when it goes in the housing due to the way they drilled the oil hole and just stopped. Im trying to think of the way to discribe this. Ill try to find the pics.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 12:28 PM
  #12  
one-cam's Avatar
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From: iowa
Default Re: (JDMCRX)

thanks alot man this post really helped alot.. i did the same thing to my oil pump

got the torque spec for the rod arp bolts? i searched but cannot find anything for y7
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 06:02 PM
  #13  
Stealthmode Performance's Avatar
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Default Re: (one-cam)

On the D series builds I've done, I never had to notch the girdle. It may be a difference in the rod bolt sizes? This was years ago, but thought I'd throw that out there.
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