I notched my block for my scat rods, Does this look ok? I think I may have taken too much off....

 

I would have taken it to a machine shop. I bet there are more than a few stress risers that can turn into cracks.

 

Looks pretty similar to the notched block on TOO's website, just not as neat... http://www.theoldone.com/artic...Ftips/

 

I was looking at those pics from theoldone also... I first one that I did was the shittiest I think, It got better as I moved left to right and then did the other side. I still have to touch it up with some sand paper later....

 

you may have to notch the block gridle to.

 

All that just to run a different set of rods???

Wow.. The dedication some people have to trying products. You couldn't pay me enough to do that to my block..

Good luck - looks fine for what it is..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Drag_On &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All that just to run a different set of rods???

Wow.. The dedication some people have to trying products. You couldn't pay me enough to do that to my block..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. I agree.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Drag_On &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All that just to run a different set of rods???

Wow.. The dedication some people have to trying products. You couldn't pay me enough to do that to my block..

Good luck - looks fine for what it is..</TD></TR></TABLE>

What aftermarket d-series rods do you not have to notch the block with? I thought you had to do it with all of them...

Why would you not do that to your block? Do you have examples of where notching the block caused failure or cracks?

Just wondering because I am going to be doing this soon...

 

looks good, I had to notch mine alot more to get my rods to clear. Good luck! -Nick


also if anyone is looking for some h-beam forged d16 rods that are practically brand new for a good price e-mail me at fastcivicboy@hotmail.com! -Nick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Drag_On &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All that just to run a different set of rods???

Wow.. The dedication some people have to trying products. You couldn't pay me enough to do that to my block..

Good luck - looks fine for what it is..</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol. I agree.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would have taken it to a machine shop. I bet there are more than a few stress risers that can turn into cracks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

welcome to honda 10 years ago, people have been doign this for a while.. stress cracks.. i've never heard a single case, doesn't make much sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stress cracks.. i've never heard a single case, doesn't make much sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess you have not taken any Engineering Mechanics courses dealing with mechanics of materials. It probably will not fracture, but it's definetely the half assed way to do things... no offense to the original poster.

 

well for all the d series guys
the newer eagle rods do not require notching

 

Yeah, that's kinda like how mine looked. Make sure you took enough.

PS- as stated above, with the scat rods (which i used) you definatley have to notch the girdle as well. It's a ******* pain in the ***, let me tell you, but at least you know ahead of time.

It wasn't fun putting the whole bottom end together and finding out I could only turn the motor about 1/8th of a turn.

Matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What aftermarket d-series rods do you not have to notch the block with? I thought you had to do it with all of them...

Why would you not do that to your block? Do you have examples of where notching the block caused failure or cracks?

Just wondering because I am going to be doing this soon...</TD></TR></TABLE>

No Notchin required for the Crower I-Beams.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well for all the d series guys
the newer eagle rods do not require notching </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have them personally? Cause I have heard the same thing about the new Eagles myself but havn't found anyone who has had them that could confirm it.

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well for all the d series guys
the newer eagle rods do not require notching </TD></TR></TABLE>
uhhhm what do you mean? I have the newer Eagle rods and i had to notch my block..unless Eagle released a new rod in the last 3-4 months..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fjt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
uhhhm what do you mean? I have the newer Eagle rods and i had to notch my block..unless Eagle released a new rod in the last 3-4 months..</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep fill me in on more of this part im getting a set of eagle H-beams from camp1320 for my sohc soldier so....... continue

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnyquest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, that's kinda like how mine looked. Make sure you took enough.
PS- as stated above, with the scat rods (which i used) you definatley have to notch the girdle as well. It's a ******* pain in the ***, let me tell you, but at least you know ahead of time.
It wasn't fun putting the whole bottom end together and finding out I could only turn the motor about 1/8th of a turn.
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh Really, I have to knotch the girdle as well... man If I had of known that before I started I would have bought the newer eagles. How much off the girdle did you have to remove?
Do you have to knotch the girdle for the older eagles?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnyquest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PS- as stated above, with the scat rods (which i used) you definatley have to notch the girdle as well. It's a ******* pain in the ***, let me tell you, but at least you know ahead of time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you notch the girdle? I have seen writeups on how to notch the block and such, but never on how to notch the girdle... how do you know how much to take off? Do you have to have the rods installed and then just take material off until it clears?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess you have not taken any Engineering Mechanics courses dealing with mechanics of materials. It probably will not fracture, but it's definetely the half assed way to do things... no offense to the original poster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

FYI, machines shops do it the exact same way. (Carbide Die Grinder, and Air) I ended up using a dremel though and it whooped my ***, took forever.


To the original poster: Looks good to me, mine we notched less than that. I didnt notch my girdle either.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fjt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhhhm what do you mean? I have the newer Eagle rods and i had to notch my block..unless Eagle released a new rod in the last 3-4 months..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also I might point out Exospeed doesnt notch their blocks at all, they say they dont have to, Stock bore, their sleeve kit, and Eagles. So I dont know whats up with that. They said something about their new rods you dont have to notch the block for or something like that.

 

I didn't notch the girdle with my setup, but I did notch the block. With Crower I-beams, notching isn't necessary. I ran Eagles, so I notched:



Sonny

 

yeah man it looks good...

here's my old B16a notched by a machine shop...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah man it looks good...

here's my old B16a notched by a machine shop...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

you had to notch a B16 block? i thought it was only the D-series engines with aftermarket rods that needed the notching??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsivil_audio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

FYI, machines shops do it the exact same way. (Carbide Die Grinder, and Air) I ended up using a dremel though and it whooped my ***, took forever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you, but I already had that information stored in my head. Last time I checked machine shops have everything perfectly symmetrical to reduce stress risers.

 

don't be a party pooper

 

Knock knock? Who's there? DUSTINS MOTOR! OHHHHHHHH SNAP! jk

I'm sure it will work out... I'm just not a fan of cutting corners. This is the internet though and people try to save every penny possible.