red96turbols

ok so heres a run down on what happened between perfectly running n/a tune and no-start boost tune..

had my car tuned for n/a after break in tune on fresh build, after 1500 miles i got it retuned for wot and ran it another 1500 miles, all is well, ran like a champ.

installed turbo, rc1200 injectors, resistor box and oil/boost gauges, drove to tuner with just changing injector size on previous map at 25mph.

filled up with gas, went to start it and nothing. pushed down the hill to the shop where it was getting tuned. after sitting for a hour or so the guy tuning it hooked up the laptop and tried to start it, she fired right up - he got to work installing dp and wg dump. on to the dyno...

i was there for the whole dyno session, sounded awesome. after the 13th run he shut it down, pulled it off and handed me the dyno sheet let car cool for about 20 mins and went to pull it out - no start. CEL came on steady with no codes in s300 dtc manager, wtf? shop closed so i had them pull it out and left me there with a few tools and a jump box - cool . after a few hours of trouble shooting i turned off my fuel pump with my switch and it fired up.. wtf?? it wouldn't drive obviously with no fuel pressure but would idle, as soon as fuel pump is switched on the car dies instantly unless flipped right back off so i assume its dumping fuel. finally towed it home and got the laptop out connected to ecu and turned it on with no fp power, began datalogging and there is no sensor data displayed thru hondata whatsoever. no rpm, ect, map, o2, nothing.

i then tried erasing the ecu and uploading a stock base map and same issue.

i tried removing resistor box and same issue.

led is illuminated red on the s300 and i can connect and upload/download calibrations but no sensor input is displayed...

is the ecu itself fried, hondata, a fuel pressure issue? wtf is going on, it ran perfect for over an hour on the dyno!

my tuner said my injectors are too big though my friend has the same set up and runs flawless. he also said the computer is dead but didn't really spend time diagnosing it because frankly, im out of money and time with this project.

he also said to remove the resistor box because he has never once used a resistor box with low impedance injectors with any honda ecu or s300 unit he has ever built or tuned. though rc would not ship the injectors without verifying a resistor pack of some sort being used so now im confused on what to do and where to start. any help would be amazing, or if anyone in the denver area is on here and is willing to take a look sometime or help out would be awesome.

crvtectim

You def need the resistor box with low impedance injectors. Wtf is your tuner talking about?

red96turbols

i have no clue. i looked at him like "are you ****ing high???" he said "your injectors are too big, your ecu is fried, your alternator is bad and your battery is dead. i didn't install any of this stuff but i can fix it all." well great, but i'm not paying someone to fix whats not really broken. i just need to figure out if its the ecu or if its his tune, either way, i tried "Erase ECU" and upload a stock calibration in s300 files but the CEL is still there and still no codes. still no sensor input displayed and datalogging doesn't do anything. when i view the tables in real-time the indicator is all over the place instead of in the normal 4 box range it used to. i'm seriously about to part this project out and buy an already boosted car. **** this.

Blove1991

Still have stock injectors? It wouldn't hurt just to see how it would react.

CO_RaceFab

Red light= s300 install issue most likely a cold solder joint i have installed hundreds of them

tron_

Also just to reinforce you NEED to run a resistor box with peak and hold injectors. The resistance is needed to dissipate the extra current associated with peak and hold injectors. if you do not run the resistors, you run the risk of burning up the injector drivers in your ECU. It could be that by running the engine without the resistor box you did that (but I doubt it unless you were driving it for a while).

I agree with PFI, check for continuity inside the ecu across all the solder joints. Sounds like an ECU issue to me.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

This.

And take it to another tuner if he told you this type of information about the injectors.

red96turbols

I've been trying to get a hold of you guys at PFi, I was recommended to you by CORsport and SpeedImage. I really need to get this car moving. I have a new ECU/S300 on the way, as far as WHY the ECU blew is what I need to know. I have no short to grounds, resistor box is wired correctly - triple checked. I'm lost at this point. I need some help

red96turbols

I do, but it makes no sens whatsoever that it will run with no fuel pressure but won't run with fuel pressure either with 35psi up to 50psi.

tron_

Didn't you run the motor without the resistor box installed? If you did it's hard to say how much extra current your ECU may have seen and how much it can dissipate before frying. But it's possible that could have happened.

Do you have a multimeter? If so go through and check the solder joints to make sure they are good. Also check for continuity between connected components.

Keep us posted!

red96turbols

I did not run the motor with those injectors with no resistor box. I ran it N/A with stock 240CC injectors, installed the RC1200CC's with resistor box before starting the engine and driving it down there. So no, there was no low impedance injectors ran with no resistor box on this car. My buddy who had the P61 w/ S300 that i currently have had hot-start issues with it but we believe it was associated with E-85 or my tuner says the resistor box is bad and shouldn't even be needed... I don't believe its not needed i believe it could be bad but idk how to test a resistor box at this point. I can pull the ECU but I have no idea on how to test it and look at it. My tuner will remain un named until this gets figured out but theres only a handful in denver so you may already know.

tron_

To test the resistor box unclip the harness leads on the injectors. On each lead there are 2 pins. Use a multimeter and test the resistance between these two pins. It should be somewhere around 10 Ohms.

edit: Also sorry about the confusion about running your car without the resistor box

edit x2: If all else fails put the stock ECU and stock injectors in and see if it will fire up. If it does then its either your injectors causing the issue (doubtful) or the ECU. Obviously take measures to ensure the car does not see boost if you do this.

DDTECH

who is this "tuner"

red96turbols

Prefer to leave un-nammed for now. I've been really pleased with all his service, aside from this last visit i seem to be gettin shrugged off like i am a nuisance and not a customer. I get "Need smaller injectors, get rid of the resistor box, ECU is fried, Alternator is fried and battery is dead. Also i didn't wire this thing i can figure it out but i need. You don't need resistor box with any RC injectors." Either way, im not pleased but i would rather keep it confidential till this is all figured out. I can believe about the ECU being done for with the CEL on, no codes, no sensor data while datalogging.

I've got it down to injectors are not closing and as soon as fuel is introduced it floods out. Most likely ECU, how would i check out the injector driver circuitry?? Anyone have a stock ECU that i could plug in around the thornton, co area lol i don't want to spend 100+ on an ecu if its not needed. ill ohm out the injector clips when i get home but any way to test the injectors if they are pulsing at all or just flooding fuel?

tron_

No way that I can think of testing the injectors :I let us know what happens with the resistance on the injectors.

Whiterice-gsr

i cant believe a tuner would tell u to take the resistor box out, thats f*cked up.

red96turbols

I know, he said he's never used one on any hondas and only uses RC injectors. I inquired about running ID and FIC injectors because of atomization and what not and blatently said "They are junk just use RC's."

So currently I'm looking for another tuner, I was told to go to PFI but never get a hold of anyone there so thats not really helping out. Any other tuners in the denver area?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

lol RC injectors are junk compared to whats available today, stop using that wannabe "tuner", hes giving you extremely bad advice that will result in the demise of your build.

red96turbols

Yeah, I've become very weary now about this. I don't understand why he's doing this, his civic is one of the fastest in this state i don't get why he loves RC. after i bought them is when i found out about ID, FIC, etc... anyone want to offer any trade -ins for these??

DDTECH

I Wanna know who this "tuner" is.. and if you want.. send me the map, i'll take a look @ it.

DarryCar

Could try a noid light. That will test the injector circuit.

digital sol

iTrader: (1)

When you turned off the pump and let it idle how long did it run for ? Did it ever actually die?

This sentence here leads me to think you just have your fuel pump switched wired the wrong way and your off is actually on, your on is actually off. Id be surprised if the fix is that easy but if it starts up with your pump off and dosnt kill itself within a few seconds then your pump is in fact "on".

255 or? You should be able to hear the pump pretty easily if its aftermarket when its turned on and the key is set to prime the pump.....

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? What is it at with the pump in the "on" position...then try your "off" to make sure this whole deal isn't a simple wiring mix-up.

red96turbols

My build thread is in the acura integra forums linked here for detailed information on the build itself. the exception on that link is the rc550s were installed for about an hour but leaked and replaced with stocks, now i have rc1200's and regret every bit of it.

Fuel pump has been wired for 4.5 years since i first got the car that was the first thing i did the day i got it. hasn't been acting up ever since.

vehicle will run for almost 10 minutes at idle with no fuel pressure.

I do have a FPG it reads 0psi and car runs, turn pump on (tried various fuel pressures ranging from 35psi to 55psi and either way it dies INSTANTLY)

I think the injector circuit is keeping the injectors open at all times which explains the instant kill when fuel pressure is applied, thought what doesn't make sense is the fact that i can upload, download and erase ecu maps, though when data logging no sensor data is displayed. no RPM, ECT, O2, lambda, vss, gear, nothing.

racebum

red96turbols

i dont quite follow that one honestly. we've already established this guy has got to be higher than a giraffes ***.