Originally Posted by TheShodan (Post 50533138)

Sorry. not one readily available. I might be able to get one with the Koyo and fan next to the Skunk2 Alpha after they come back from Anodizing.

Originally Posted by LightningTeg

Just use the 13" fan and secure directly too the radiator. A shroud wont help much as the fan covers most of the surface area. I did mine with straight zip ties fine, no issues many years that way.

I havent seen it posted, but also make sure you run a seperate power source for the van via a relay. The amp draw is 20-30amps with that fan and will not perform well through the stock wiring.

Originally Posted by LightningTeg (Post 50533331)

Just use the 13" fan and secure directly too the radiator. A shroud wont help much as the fan covers most of the surface area. I did mine with straight zip ties fine, no issues many years that way.

I havent seen it posted, but also make sure you run a seperate power source for the van via a relay. The amp draw is 20-30amps with that fan and will not perform well through the stock wiring.

Originally Posted by wantboost

I've seen plenty of people using a 40amp fuse with stock wiring with no issues. You have to remember that it's an OEM high current circuit and the OEM fan wiring is a decent gauge for most single high flow fans. Now the guys running big dual fans or one super serious fan need a new 60amp relay and new larger gauge wiring.

Originally Posted by $amGD3 (Post 50533463)

OP

just getting a SPAL fan to your stock radiator will only be a band aid fix. If financially possible, I would get an aftermarket larger radiator.

I bought a used Fluidyne for $100 and with the 13" SPAL I dont have any overheat issues

Originally Posted by wantboost (Post 50532746)

Yes spacing the hood helps airflow through the radiator and helps evacuate hot air out of the engine bay.

Originally Posted by njn63

OP: Do you have the lower splash shield on the car? If you do not, air could be coming behind the radiator and pressurizing the engine bay. If the stock shield does not fit try to fab something up (keeping flammable materials away from the downpipe obviously).

It doesn't look like the air from the grille opening is ducted to the heat exchangers either? Air will take the path of least resistance so if you don't have the air ducted it will go around the radiator instead of through it.

Agree with the previous comments regarding removing air bubbles and making sure the cooling system is operating properly as a first step. You can throw all kinds of parts at it but it is critical to get the fundamentals correct first.Is there any data to prove this?

Only can speak generally because I haven't tested it on a Honda but most cars have a high pressure zone at the base of the windshield at speed which means air would be flowing into the engine bay with hood spacers creating a higher pressure. You want a pressure differential across the heat exchanger to draw air through it which means you want a low pressure zone in the engine bay.

If you look at the majority of OEM/race cars they have extraction vents placed between the front and middle of the hood because the air flow around the car creates a low pressure zone in that area. Air flows from high pressure (bumper opening) to low pressure (hood vent) and makes the radiator work more efficiently.

Reference:
http://www.corvetteblogger.com/image.../080409_19.jpg

Hood spacers DO generally reduce underhood heat when the car is stationary but the OP said his issue is when the car is moving. In theory a hood spacer would make that issue worse.

Re: Fans - Fans don't do anything when the car is moving at more than walking speed. At 60 mph your car is moving 5280 feet per minute. If the grille opening is 1 square foot (simplifying math, not sure on the area of a Civic but it is likely over 1 sq ft), the grille opening is consuming 5280 CFM. Do you think a fan that moves 1600 CFM is doing anything at that point? It's like pedaling a bike in 1st gear while bombing a hill.

Originally Posted by njn63 (Post 50548139)

OP: Do you have the lower splash shield on the car? If you do not, air could be coming behind the radiator and pressurizing the engine bay. If the stock shield does not fit try to fab something up (keeping flammable materials away from the downpipe obviously).

It doesn't look like the air from the grille opening is ducted to the heat exchangers either? Air will take the path of least resistance so if you don't have the air ducted it will go around the radiator instead of through it.

Agree with the previous comments regarding removing air bubbles and making sure the cooling system is operating properly as a first step. You can throw all kinds of parts at it but it is critical to get the fundamentals correct first.

Is there any data to prove this?

Only can speak generally because I haven't tested it on a Honda but most cars have a high pressure zone at the base of the windshield at speed which means air would be flowing into the engine bay with hood spacers creating a higher pressure. You want a pressure differential across the heat exchanger to draw air through it which means you want a low pressure zone in the engine bay.

If you look at the majority of OEM/race cars they have extraction vents placed between the front and middle of the hood because the air flow around the car creates a low pressure zone in that area. Air flows from high pressure (bumper opening) to low pressure (hood vent) and makes the radiator work more efficiently.

Reference:
http://www.corvetteblogger.com/image.../080409_19.jpg

Hood spacers DO generally reduce underhood heat when the car is stationary but the OP said his issue is when the car is moving. In theory a hood spacer would make that issue worse.

Re: Fans - Fans don't do anything when the car is moving at more than walking speed. At 60 mph your car is moving 5280 feet per minute. If the grille opening is 1 square foot (simplifying math, not sure on the area of a Civic but it is likely over 1 sq ft), the grille opening is consuming 5280 CFM. Do you think a fan that moves 1600 CFM is doing anything at that point? It's like pedaling a bike in 1st gear while bombing a hill.

Originally Posted by turbohatch96y7 (Post 50548212)

Stock ems turns it off after 35mph if you have s300 or whatver else you can change that


Ducting means in the case making a pan to go underneath ur front bumper to the back of the radiator just like the stock bumper had

Also if you dont have the ac condenser anymore block that area too. You want to force air into your radiator.

If you have air going under your radiator into the bay it becomes full of pressure and makes it harder for air to naturally flow through the radiator

Originally Posted by turbohatch96y7 (Post 50548178)

I agree with everything except the last part


We usually have a intercooler blocking our radiators.
The radiator doesnt get good airflow

I keep my fan on until 50mph because of this.

Thats actual data logged findings

Originally Posted by bigodub93 (Post 50548182)

Wow lots of good info and theory. When you talk about ducting I get lost because I personally don't think there is any room for me to put ducting in. When I think of ducting in the first place I see dryer vent tubing in my head. Is that the right idea. Once my bumper is on there is little room to run anything to the radiator.