bigodub93

I'm having a slight overheating problem with my car.
I have a fresh build low comp ls/vtec turbo with about 500 miles so far. No overheating problems with the old stock motor.
Motor is in my em1 00 civic coupe. I have a go-autoworks big fmic and a brand new stock radiator with stock fan, and also the stock Ac components with a aftermarket pusher fan because stock Ac fan didn't fit.
The car can drive about 10-15 minutes with the temp below half like it should be then the needle will slowly move to half then 3/4 the I pull over and let the car idle and it goes back down fairly quickly.
The car is tuned. Did a compression and leakdown test and there are good. Also got all the air out of the coolant system. and new oem thermostat. Fan is turning in the right direction.
I think it has to be a air flow problem. So I'm looking for answers on how to get better air foe to the radiator.

bigodub93

I took the bumper off too see if I could find anything odd or that really needs to be removed but I really don't see huge room for improvement. And it did not overheat on the Dyno.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Spal fan bra

Stock fans dont pull that much air

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Your radiator probably has a nice air bubble in it, and needs to be 1) situated so that it sits much more vertical that it currently does. 2) rebleed the system with the car lifted off of the ground, so that other air bubbles can escape more easily. 3) Yes, the stock fan works, but its best to get a real fan to work with this radiator. 4) you don't need the pusher fans to keep the air going into the A/C condenser.

And I haven't even addressed the possibility of the cheap radiator itself. But I'd start with 1-4 first.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>...Why the hell is your radiator cocked at an angle? &nbsp;Like Shodan said, fix that bit of stupid, do a proper bleed (radiator cap off, front end elevated on jack stands, rolling ramps, or just parked up a steep hill, let car run for two radiator fan cycles keeping coolant topped off at all times), and get a real fan. &nbsp;Can't go wrong with SPAL.</p><p>That fan on your AC condenser is cute, though.</p>

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea with your radiator angled like that I can guarantee you that there's a huge air pocket at the top of that end tank.

Unless you filled the system using the vacuum lift method there is air in it.

Also the stock radiator was never meant to handle such high heat loads... And yes forced induction does generate more load on the cooling system. Also the elevated EGTs and radiant heat from the turbo manifold, turbine housing, downpipe, etc all heatsoak surrounding components, including the radiator and AC condenser. Also the stock radiator fan sucks on oerformance applications. You need a bigger radiator and a fan capable of moving more air.

Also unless you take steps to insulate the exhaust components and shield the AC compressor from the increased amount of heat you will notice your AC will blow air that keeps getting hotter and hotter until the compressor fails. It's a very common problem on turbo Hondas that keep AC.

bigodub93

It radiator is cocked sideways because the turbo is kinda in the way. But Yea It does look pretty bad lol. I have a new skunk2 dual core radiator that I had in for 2 days but took out because I was trying to figure out this problem. I will put that in back in tomorrow and rebleed the system now that the car is on jack stands ( at a angle). Also should I put a bottle of water wetter in? Other than the position or the radiator and and a rebleed does everything else look correct. Some other post I read people were trying to cut the bumper support bar or buying good spacers.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Unless you drive the car when temps get near/at/below freezing and if the car sits in a garage during cold weather I would run distilled water and water wetter, no ethylene glycol coolant. You'll see the best drop in temperatures and the most stable temperatures that way. However it offers nothing in the way of freeze protection so if the car sits outside or sees freezing temps for extended periods of time then the mixture will freeze and damage all sorts of ****. If this is the case then I would add enough ethylene glycol based coolant to add freeze protection.

The best thing is waterless coolant but it isn't cheap (though it is lifetime coolant) and some work has to be done to convert a system to waterless but it is fairly minimal.

bigodub93

I took a look at spal fans and don't exactly see the one I need. Can anyone tell me which one I need (Amazon) and do I need a custom shroud or is it ok to mount just like that?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

A shroud would offer the best performance as it pulls air through the entire core where a fan only pulls air through the section it covers.

It's hard to say which one you need as it depends on clearance between the radiator and whatever is behind it.

bigodub93

Gotcha. I will get the distiller water and water wetter. Switch the radiator and try to position it correctly. I yhought about wrapping the down pipe to help with the heat but haven't done that at all. What do you think about the hood spacer idea. Does it lower under hood temps and help more air to circulate. I won't be cutting the radiator support. I think I need that lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yes spacing the hood helps airflow through the radiator and helps evacuate hot air out of the engine bay.

bigodub93

I found this. I could use that with the spal fan?

Honda Civic Performance Aluminum Fan Shroud Kit, 1992?2000

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>I've seen tests showing that hood spacers help, but I've never personally used them. &nbsp;Properly mounting your radiator, bleeding your system, and putting a good shrouded fan on there should solve your problem though.</p><p>That shroud will work, but those fans are...kind of crap.</p>

bigodub93

Are there any other companies that make a shroud. This was all I found.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I run a spal fan i forgot the pt# but its the 1300 cfm one i think

No shroud and it cools my **** down fast and never over heats

Its worth the money

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Slimfan sells just the shroud for like, $60, ready for a SPAL 12&quot; fan.</p>

bigodub93

So your using yours as a pusher because it has no shroud or because of lack of space

bigodub93

I was leaning more towards the 13' because it flows more cfm's but if there's no shroud for it then I think the 12' would cool more efficiently because of the shroud

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Theres some more pics i needed the space to make a proper intake.

People say pushers are worse than pullers but mine works just fine.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Just looked at mine and its the 13" so thats as big as you want to go

Pt# Va13-ap7/ll-63s

bigodub93

Thanks for the info I'm going to narrow my thoughts down and make my purchases

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The part number that you're looking for is the 13" High performance fan -- 30102044, and reaches at most about 1600cfm.

For myself, I also am not using a shroud, but made some custom mounting brackets that work with the fan itself so it becomes a natural shroud. You need to use a larger AMP fuse (40AMP) or use the SPAL relay in order for it to work. you want to use this strictly as a puller style fan. All on a Koyo half-sized 1570 Radiator.

I'm using 70% Toyota OEM coolant, 20% distilled water with 10% purple Ice, and doesn't reach anything over 196* at any time.

bigodub93

Would you happen to have a pic of how it's mounted on you radiator. I'm going to order the 13" and mount it as a puller to my skunk2 half sized radiator. I'll buy the rely as well. But I think I'll only be able to mount it with the straight zip-ties. I'm not to good at custom work.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Sorry. not one readily available. I might be able to get one with the Koyo and fan next to the Skunk2 Alpha after they come back from Anodizing.