Lamafia ck

i'm running a zex 65 shot wet on a 97 ls skunk 2 IT,fuel regulater,headers.cold air intake,msd blaster,msdspark plug wire. My problem is that everytime i flip the switch the car dies out and wen i flip it back it runs fine again.
everything is connectd fine brand new jet brand new selenoid its spraying nitrous normal everything works but everythime i spray car dies out
i have brand new cold plugs timing is checkd everything works fine
the only thing that i can think of is running too rich
its puttin about 60 psi full t.

nonvtecallmotor

its most likely too rich.

Lamafia ck

yea thats the only thing i can think of 2 because i tryd different switchs,tps,a main switch

Lamafia ck

the gas line from the nitrous is connected with a t fitting on the gas line from fuel filter to fuel rail should i put on the return line?

Lamafia ck

...........no one

Boostdc4

is ur car tuned ?

JSPECSIR

what is your bottle pressure at when you spray? the optimal pressure is around 900-1000 psi (correct me if im wrong) your fuel pressure is gonna be the same everytime, the bottle pressure is going to lower everytime you use some out of the bottle. do you have a gauge and a bottle heater? these are 2 very important components of a nitrous system esp. a wet setup. if your bottle pressure drops below the psi it needs to be, your fuel stays the same. then when you spray there is enough fuel being sprayed for 900-1000 psi of nitrous. well if the nitrous pressure is lower then its going to have way to much fuel and bog down or die. you need to get a good heater, and a good gauge and have the pressure up before you spray. good luck. oh also you should invest in a purge setup. if you have air in the line before the nitrous, and no way to purge it out, this will also cause a rich condition, because when it initially sprays it will spray alot of fuel and air until the nitrous gets there. hope this helps.

Lamafia ck

its at 900psi

Lamafia ck

its not tuned and the nitrous is spraying normal the bottle pressure is at 900

Tippyman

Check to make sure that both ntrous and fuel are both spraying. Just shoot the nozzle into the air. ONce with the bottle closed to check fuel, and once open to check nitrous.

Then check to make sure the jets are the correct size. If the fuel jet is too big or the nitrous too small, it'll bog out.

Tippyman

Also, check to make sure the spark plugs are the correct type and gap.

Lamafia ck

you guys think 65 shot for a stock ls is too much shoud i go lower like 5o???

Lamafia ck

i tryd leaning out the car to normal fuel psi and it still dies out i checkd the fuel and nitrous everything works checkd all the fuses idk why but i did.bottle pressure is at 900psi,and it still dies out idk i'ma order smaller jets and i'ma try it .

Lamafia ck

yoo found wat it was they send me the wrong jets i just tryd 55 shot and it works perfect thanks alot for all the help

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lamafia ck &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yoo found wat it was they send me the wrong jets i just tryd 55 shot and it works perfect thanks alot for all the help </TD></TR></TABLE>

Told ya.

integraRS-T

nitous is like a hot chick wit stds u wanna hit it realy bad but ur scared of the consequences

nonvtecallmotor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraRS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nitous is like a hot chick wit stds u wanna hit it realy bad but ur scared of the consequences</TD></TR></TABLE>That wasnt funny the first 100 billion times I heard it and the not getting any funnier.

integraRS-T

nitrous sucks get freakin turbo and ur good to go

integraRS-T

ofcourse a allmotor guy had to say thatget real GET A TURBO!!!!!

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraRS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nitrous sucks get freakin turbo and ur good to go</TD></TR></TABLE>

Show me a turbo car with the same torque curve as a nitrous motor and I'll agree with you.

Go ahead, do it.

integraRS-T

show me a nitrous car that lasted at least half the life of a turbo one ,not everybody is rich and can afford to rebuild motors every couple of months,and about the power i saw some that were pretty close

.CUBISH.

i love people that have so much negative things to say about nitrous and have no clue about anything

all of the nitrous cars ive ever built have lasted years. the main problem with nitrous is the people using it with no knowledge. its the same for people that slap on a turbo kit and dont tune their car. obviously its going to break..

my DAILY driven nitrous hatch went 10.69@135 on a dual stage setup probably spraying more nitrous than you are making power and lasted 2 race seasons and 15k+ street miles.. and power band...how many boost cars have you seen make peak power @ 4500 and carry it to 10k.....?

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraRS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">show me a nitrous car that lasted at least half the life of a turbo one ,not everybody is rich and can afford to rebuild motors every couple of months</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's because people who go turbo usually get their cars tuned, and people who go nitrous usually rely on the jets for fuel management. That, in my opinion, is retarted.

If you want to talk about all out, 8 second hondas, then yes, turbo is the only way to go. Nitrous loses efficiency after a while due to lack of bottle pressure, temperatures being too low, etc.

But if we're talking about regular, streetable hondas, then it is REALLY hard to beat a properly built nitrous car with the same amount of money.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraRS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and about the power i saw some that were pretty close</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really? I doubt it. I didn't say power, I said TORQUE. The only boosted hondas that I have seen come even close the the torque curve of a nitrous 4 cyl. are boosted F series and non-vtec d series. (The reason being the way the crappy heads are designed.)

As for which is "better" is entirely up to the user. I personally have a nitrous car right now and am in the process of losing the nitrous and going turbo. Why? Because I think it's better? No. It's because I am sick of having a limited supply of power in a bottle. I want power on tap whenever I want, without worrying about running out.

If you give someone $1000 to build a nitrous setup and $1000 to build a turbo setup, the nitrous setup guy will have more power, better tuning, a safer setup, and, in the end, a faster car. That's why I originally went nitrous.

Hope I educated any ignorant peeps in H-T land.

integraRS-T

hold on a sec u said a "safer setup,better tuning" what are u talkin bout a good tuner on a turbo setup will still get u 25mpg at 400whp and very reliable setup

njn63

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraRS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hold on a sec u said a "safer setup,better tuning" what are u talkin bout a good tuner on a turbo setup will still get u 25mpg at 400whp and very reliable setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

A good tuner isn't in the budget for a $1,000 setup. For $1,000 on a nitrous setup you'll have something that is nearly top of the line with a lot of safe guards. For $1,000 on a turbo setup you'll have a lot of used parts or corners cut.

And a nitrous motor off the bottle is going to get great gas mileage.

I still don't understand why the Honda scene is so scared of nitrous. Where I live there are tons of 8-9 second Mustangs/Malibu's running nitrous.