Pure Sol

So having read the various threads and all I've come to the conclusion that spending the money will be the best decision. So now I need help seeing as this is my first turbo build. I'm looking to turbocharge my LS/VTEC but on the same note I don't want to go over 10 psi max as of now. My question is should I look into buying a kit or piece this together? Also, what should I start looking into buying? I want to keep a decent budget but I don't wanna buy crap. So H-T what should I buy for 8-10 psi on a LS/VTEC without going completely nuts with spending money?


Modified by Pure Sol at 10:56 PM 2/27/2008

HONDACIVC93

sounds like you DIDNT read threads about this. really it depends what you wanna get out of it. are you gonna stay at 7-8 psi or you plan on upgrading? im assuming you wont last long at 7-8 psi before you up it. how much power are you trying to make? just 7-8 psi doesnt mean much. piecing something together will be cheaper and a hell of alot more effeective.

Evilparadize

Don't base your self on PSI, rather on Horse Power.

1) Set a goal and application! Let's say 250-300WHP for a street/strip car.

2) Look into a used or rebuilt T3/T4 with smaller A/R's if you want faster spools rather than top speed, do not skimp out on the quality/health of the turbo. Be sure to purchase a manifold that compliments your set-up. I'd say use a log-type since your not looking for optimum or high performance. For your Down Pipe, be sure to go with at least 2.5" all the way but if you can 3". Consider A/C and P/S compatible.

3) Recommended but not always, intercooler, so just buy an eBay one with DIY piping for cheap. Quality of I/C's are pretty good now anywhere.

4) Used Wastegate and Blow Off Valve, can be generic but Tial or Greddy are much better. Obviously more money, and more if their new.

5) Fuel delivery will be suited with bigger injectors, let's say 550's and a Walbro Fuel Pump.

6) Chipped ECU or at least an E-Manage. This is one, if not, the most important part of your set-up. Do NOT cheep-out on this, your car will thank you for this!

7) Finally a tune by a competent tuner. Make sure you shop around and ask a lot of questions when deciding on who is tuning your car. This will ultimately determine how much power you can safely make without detonation.

8) Miscellaneous or other parts that you may need or want. Oil Lines, plenty of sponsors here with good prices. Gages, help keep tabs on engine's health and condition. Catch Can, Think of it as a stress reliever for your engine caused by blow-by. Bolts, ACE and other hardware stores can match your bolt patterns. Dumptube, get one made by your local muffler shop. Cam Gears, help with valve over lap. 2.5-4 BAR MAP Sensor, if you plan to boost above the factory MAP. So on and so on.

It's obvious that the more money you put into your build, the more reliable, but let's not forget about number 7 on the list. A conservative tune will help your engine last longer in relation to how much you rape it. Consider the health of your engine by performing a compression and leak down test. Round up all the main players on a budget build for about $1000 to well...as much as you want or can. You can always expand later if you decide with a set-up like this.

Pure Sol

^That^ was exactly the response I was hoping for, a nice detailed list of what I should do. And you're right 250-300 for street/strip is a perfect goal not psi as I was saying earlier. I'm going to try to keep it low seeing as this would be a DD. Another question I have is can I run with an internal wastegate? And seeing as the gf would have a fit if she didn't drive it A/C and P/S are a must.

95dc2teg

if you want to keep ac and ps, it depends on what type of manifold you get. A log manifold, such as rev hard (what my gf runs on her turbo 00 gsr), meutek, drag, blox, or a custom one (which are more expensive) are some choices you have for ac and ps compatable manifolds. I went with a replica cast iron rev hard manifold that cost me like 100 bucks off ebay, no problems whatsoever. Here was my setup that made 270whp/210tq and allowed me to run 12.7's all day on street tires.

rebuilt egay turbo 46trim ($300, price including rebuild)
rev hard (replica) log manifold ($100)
rev hard 2.5 inch dp ($140)
ebay 26"x2.5"x6" intercooler with ebay piping (had to modify, no biggie) ($200)
tial 38mm wastegate (bought used) ($160)
walbro 255 ($100)
dsm 440's ($75)
greddy knock off bov ($50)
Oil line kit ($100)

and im sure i forgot something, but it was cheap and it was very reliable. I had 40k on that setup without a problem. Now im working on my 500whp build with brand name parts...expensive. Also my gf is running pretty much the same set up i had except she has a turbonetics 57 trim, turbonetics wastegate. but everthing else is the same. her car runs damn good too.

I see your in port charlotte so if you ever need help just hit me up b

Pure Sol

Nice to see some people close by willing to help. We'll have to meet up some time. So now I got a different question, why is everyone running external wastegates?

95dc2teg

Internal wastegates are build into the turbo housing(exhaust side). If your turbo doesn't have one, then you don't have one. External wastegates allow more precise boost control and better response. Internal wastegates are cheap in looks and construction.

91redteg

definitly peice together a kit dont buy a complete one

Evilparadize

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pure Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^That^ was exactly the response I was hoping for, a nice detailed list of what I should do. And you're right 250-300 for street/strip is a perfect goal not psi as I was saying earlier. I'm going to try to keep it low seeing as this would be a DD. Another question I have is can I run with an internal wastegate? And seeing as the gf would have a fit if she didn't drive it A/C and P/S are a must.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even an 800HP sleight can become a DD. Internal WG are somewhat limited to a rated pressure, of course you can always add an external boost controller but an external WG can offer you a broader range. The girlfriend will be pleased with a 3" DP that is tailored to your needs. You can get away with a 2.5" to 3" DP and allow for A/C & P/S. Talk to your local shops or sponsors!