Your AFR's were actually too lean to do damage and that's what saved you. You didn't have enough fuel to make any power and the motor just fell on its face. If your AFR's would have been in the 14-16 range you would have torched everything.

just consider yourself lucky and move on.

 

that makes sense. he was running so lean that there wasn't enough fuel mass in the cylinder to produce normal or elevated combustion chamber pressures. however he was so lean I wouldn't be amazed if the piston crowns are showing signs of melting or the combustion chambers also show signs of melting

odd that his rods failed, especially at 19:1afr. unles he was having ungodly detonation issues, although with such little fuel mass in the cylinder I don't see how that's possible.

OP if you can pull the head off and inspect the head and pistons for signs of melting, deformation, pitting, etc. I bet if the rods hadn't failed that ultimately a piston would have failed regardless.

 

Could a piston have melted to the cylinder and caused a rod to tear the wrist pin out...thereby causing the obvious rod failure?

In for pics/results

 

It busted when I put the 450s in. Kinda flew for a second. New plan is to use a junk d to throw in until I rebuild the f. The h was screwed up, and the f drove (with massive oil puddles in the spark plug holes). I'll post a couple pics.

Http://postimg.org/gallery/6vj8x73a

 

You should be able to easily fix the oil in the spark plug tubes issue by replacing the lower/upper spark plug tube seals that come with the felpro valve cover gasket kit. You have to remove the rocker arm assembly to get to the lower seals so youll want to do a valve adjustment after its all back together (i just did this on my f22b2, I assume it's similar on the f23 but I apologize if I'm way off lol, I'm a newb).

Glad to see you learned a lesson from this, I'm in the process of researching boosting my f22b2 and your experience has shown me how important it is to have a plan for fuel management and tuning. Good luck!

 

Glad to be helpful and may the luck be with you, also, jvr. Aparently it's not an exaggeration lol

So. Maybe I need a new thread, maybe not. I've got peoples' attention though so I'll shoot. I'm getting a 94 5 spd tran and d16z6. Also getting a 97 f23a1 auto trans and motor. (Both almost for free.) This got me stumbling onto f2d. I like the idea, but seeing a little adapter plate cost about a grand makes me think I might need to find another way. Just find an f or h 5 spd, maybe? I'm starting to lose my sense of a plan. Turbo d turned into h22 turned into f2d turned into ??? I'm trying to wind this up, not dig deeper.

 

just turbo the d man. spend the extra money you would from the swap, building your turbo components, and building some experience. d's are cheap and good to learn on. not to mention you wont have to deal with geting all the components to make those swaps work.

props for humbling yourself. eventually you will come back here asking for help, and its in your best interest to be on these guys good sides as they will be the ones you want answering your questions. cocky bitches with no experience dont last long here.

 

The f23 is in the yard. I'll pick up the d soon. Both are done deals, and I can pull whatever off the 94 civic and 98 accord. Ecu, axles, harness, pedals, whatever. The cost was too nice to pass.

If anybody wants anything (non interior) that I won't need for the swap just let me know. I'll sell them super cheap plus shipping. I have to return the shells when I'm done. I expect a week to pull everything off the accord.

 

How much for the accord axles? I guess I should figure out if they'll fit my '94 accord lx 5 speed first, but if they do, I'm interested.

Is the accord a manual or auto? Abs or no?

 

Cindarella story in the works.

 

x2 ... start simple with the D series and make that work, maybe build it in the future, and then move on to something else. D series engines are great because parts are plentiful and cheap

 

Wow… So instead of listening to all the advice given you install the 450cc's anyway and instantly destroy the engine due to detonation.

On the new motor, please please have it tuned before driving it. Good luck with the new setup.

 

There is the chance with tge 450cc it was getting enough fuel to make real power, causing the rods to hate life and commit murder suicide on the oil pan

 

Right. If those 450s wouldn't have been put in that motor might have had a chance… or at least been in good enough shape for a rebuild without the catastrophic damage.

 

Thanks man. The W2A was all about the sleeper. Car looked like a ragged old 4 door on the outside, down to the rusty quarter and honda hubcaps. Pissed a lot of kids off with that one.

What's his real life name? I go by the shop every now and then, worked there for a bit myself waaay back.

It's all good, you seem like a good guy who was misdirected at some point. No big, hope I wasn't too harsh.

Personally, I would use the Dseries engine that's being offered. You already have everything for it, no sense in diving into another project right now.

As for tuning options, you have a few out there. I have personally used both Hondata S300 and Neptune on my cars (K runs AEM but no need for that here). Both are very respectable systems and I noticed no major differences when I used them. Search around for local shops, get in contact with them to see how much money it is to get tuned and with what software they're most comfortable with. Once you know where you're going, purchase the ECU with the software the shop uses. If you have an EK, you will also need to buy an OBD2 to OBD1 harness. 96-98 needs an OBD2a, 99-00 needs an OBD2b. If you're running an EG no worries they plug right in.

If you have no choice but to drive the car to the tuners shop, LEAVE your stock injectors AND ECU in the car. Hook up all the components, and remove your BOV for the time being. If it's in a weird spot, get a spare coupler and make a big hole in it and place it AFTER the intercooler. Drive the car like a normal person to the shop, fix all your boost leaks, install your injectors (if you're using DSM 450s, make sure to install a resistor box), and put your new ECU in. The shop can then handle it from there.

Good luck on your next build. Also, if you have an ebay manifold that's not cast on your car, just imagine another lecture here that says take that **** off or it'll break and remember what just happened.

 

+1

But you need to pull the wastegate spring as well. You don't want the turbo spinning infinitely...

 

Every 6 months I have to correct this. The turbocharger will not overspin, it can't do that when it only spins up to 0 vacuum (atmospheric pressure) when the system isn't pressurized with a disconnected intercooler pipe.

"overspinning" conditions only occur with sudden changes of boost pressure to vacuum. I.e. A dyno run at 28psi in which a hose connector popped of, suddenly shifting the turbine shaft.

So, if you want to take out the wastegate spring, fine, but you're just wasting your own time.

 

Fitting the f23 in with an h drop guide should be simple enough. Lot of info out there on that. My biggest hair puller right now is if I'll grind up my d series 5 speed like the guide here on ht shows or if I'd do better using an h or f trans. I really doubt I'll be buying a conversion plate, but if I can modify stock mounts ans get the one for 600, I might. But... hair pull time; my shell is a 94 del sol si. I aassume the d axles, once I get that it, will work with my f. If not, I've got a lot of parts sourcing to do... I've been reading about mixing Integra and accord axles to work for civic to del sol swaps, but nothing seems too well written about stock h/f trannies in a del sol body. On the other hand I did find some h/f axles "for civic" on eBay for around 300. I just need a plan. Time to work and money will come once I have that.

 

Ok, I'm kinda confused and maybe I just worded things really bad. I'm sure you can explain things though I'm here to learn.

Without a pressure source the wastegate diaphragm will never open and all exhaust gases will continue to spin the turbo. I figured for the sake of unnecessary wear on the turbo removing the wastegate spring would allow the majority of the exhaust gases to escape via the dump tube and not spin the turbo.

I guess I didn't mean "overspinning" as in breaking the turbo just a precaution to prevent unnecessary wear. As all mechanical things have a life span I figured it was a simple enough thing to do for longevity.

Also, what stops the turbo from spinning up past vacuum? I guess I don't understand this. Wouldn't the turbo spin as fast as the load/exhaust gases propelled it to?

 

Jon, John? He has a blue eg hatch, his sister is stoopid hot and used to have, or may still have an EVO 9.

I know he lives in an amish part of PA, he used to tell me stories about how his cars scared their horses lol

 

Alright, half the trouble is gone. There definitely exist axles for f or h tranny to del sol spindles. Now, to grind or find a bolt up tranny. Diggy diggy some more.

 

Here's your biggest issue

h and f transmissions are cable operated, the civics use a linkage. totally different shifter box, etc. and it's a different cable system then the cable b trans... so you'd have to figure out how to get an accord/prelude shifter box into a civic.

there are much easier swaps... aftermarket for the f series is nonexistent unless you like having to custom make literally everything

 

I'll explain in Blue

 

Damn, how have I missed all of this raging stupidity. The last two setups I put together (one mine, one my buddies that I built last summer) both are over 500whp on stock sleeves. There, I commented in your thread, add me to the list. You can make it three now.

This is just laughable. Get it tuned. Best money you will ever spend on a build. And the most important money.

 

Stay with the D for now. To install the F/H, you need to source a transmission, mounts, axles, shift cables, shifter box, alter your wiring harness, plus then you start with a turbo setup that needs to be modified to fit the F/H. New manifold, new downpipe, probably redo your IC piping, the list gets a lot longer, and not any cheaper.