so i installed 450cc dsm injectors along with a resistor box..got my p28 chipped connected with a brand new obd2b to obd1 harness..and with the new ecu i cant start it.no fuel pump sound or anithing..when i hook it back up to stock ecu i can hear the fuel pump..what could be the problem?

thanks

 

Is there a check engine light on when using the obd1 ecu, could be a bad ecu/soldier job.

 

my friend(who chipped the ecu for me) put a chip that u can just take off and remove for easier tuning..he's pro and he's done many chipping jobs so i think he knows what he's doing..when i put my obd2 ecu in there's no CEL but when i put the obd1 ecu in..on the second click there's no fuel pump noise but there is a check engine like..for some reason its not as bright as it should be..kinda like the light is dying..=/

 

bump

 

I bet the problem is the ecu. There is a main filtering capacitor for the board, it is on the main power for the ecu. They go bad all the time, and cause the ecu not to go through a cycle and power up, also causing no fuel pump. Take the lid off the top and bottom of the ecu, and look for a burnt part of the board near the ecu plugs. It is pretty common, also you can smell it if the cap has shorted.

 

thanks i'll check that too...what if it is that? fixable?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazyhmongboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks i'll check that too...what if it is that? fixable?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can fix them as long as it didn't take out a section of the board. But I assume he just chipped it, so it probbaly isn't too bad if the problem at all. But sound like it to me.


You have to replace the cap, and then jump any traces that might of got burnt up.

 

checked both and both are fine..no burn't anithing..

 

bad burn on the chip or the chip is in backwards. try and have him reburn it for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazyhmongboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my friend(who chipped the ecu for me) put a chip that u can just take off and remove for easier tuning..he's pro and he's done many chipping jobs so i think he knows what he's doing..when i put my obd2 ecu in there's no CEL but when i put the obd1 ecu in..on the second click there's no fuel pump noise but there is a check engine like..for some reason its not as bright as it should be..kinda like the light is dying..=/</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everybody's friend is a pro

If it won't prime after you upload another calibration file the ecu is damaged. That's why you should always test ecu's before socketing them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's why you should always test ecu's before socketing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and before giving them back to the owner

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeffsciv23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and before giving them back to the owner </TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct.

 

Hopefully that 'pro' did what pros are known to do - put a switch or removable jumper for J1. I like to use a regular header pin for it, spreading the legs apart to fit, and leaving a regular jumper tab thing on it. Pull it off, and its the stock rom.

Cut that jumper, and it will be a totally stock ecu. That will at least tell you if that solid CEL (check engine light) is the chip or ecu. BTW I have had an issue with ESD 'killing' my chip. I normally take it out for theft prevention, and one time after handling it, it wouldn't start up well, and wouldn't run at all. Luckly I had my lappy and burner with me, so I erased & reburned the same chip. The bystanders were quite impressed

 

yea he is a pro..he's a tech at intec racing..the chip is removable thats how i was able to put the chip on both ecu's i tried..both ecu's worked on both cars i got them from..