I have a h22 fully built with forged pistons (9:0:1) & rods. I would like some more experienced engine builders/tuners to give me some advice. I shall be turboing the h22 but wanted to get it working N/A before I boost it just to see if there are any wiring bugs. I know it will run like a sac of poo on the lower compression pistons. So shall I run it in N/A for a 100miles or so or just go straight with the turbo setup and break it in from there. I guess the new engine needs a new personalitly i.e. MAP.
How do you guys go about running in boosted engines when they are poorly tuned? Or do you have sympathetic tuners who do not put it at full load on the dyno

Thanks

 

I have just read this and it is informative but still need a few pointers.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=748015

Which Oil do I choose? I know there are special oils for breaking in motors, are they a waste of money? Should I consider any additives?

Thanks

 

So I need 10w 40 mineral oil it seems. Will the tuner need to tune my engine twice, once for the break in and again afterwards? Once Ive upgraded the oil after the break-in. I may aswell have a retune as i'll probably be upping the boost. Do I tune for break-in, tune for after the break-in and tune with increased boost? I just wanna get things right first time without wasting time nor money

How many miles can I leave the 10w 40 in for?

Does idling the car add to the break in time or is it only when load is on the engine, if so when I start it i'll make sure its heated up correctly before blasting the throttle. I'll keep the revs low and the gears high to begin with.

 

You can get by with running the stock ECU when in N/A to break it in. The lower compression won't be that much of a slug, with the fresh build it should feel pretty strong. Then get it tuned when you install the turbo.

As for the oil, you can use any cheap oil since you'll be changing it pretty often. Some people prefer non-detergent oil, but regular Pennzoil or whatever from Walmart will do. Upon the first initial start up, let it idle until the fans turn on twice (operating temp), then change the oil. Fill er up again, run that for about 500 miles. Change the oil, run it for another 1000. Change. Then you can switch to synthetic afterwards. That's how I do it for my rebuilds, and all have worked perfectly to this day.

 

Thanks for the reply, do I need to change the filter everytime I do the oil? Im pretty sure for the difference it makes I can keep a brand new one in till 1k miles then just worry about the oil changes.

All these little things dont half add up

Do you make sure the revs decline through the gears when breaking the engine in? Or is that just for the first few miles of driving? Ive read this is important for bedding in the piston rings.

 

I would definitely put a new oil filter on each time you drain the oil. On a fresh build, there will always be some shavings or whatnot from the intial assembly process. The filter should catch most of this stuff before it makes it through to the bearing surfaces. So always throw on a new filter, especially when doing the first 2-3 changes.

The piston rings should seat right away. Just don't go out and redline it on it's first time out. Drive it normally and gradually increase the rpms.

 

Can the piston rings only seat properly if load is on the engine, for example when im waiting for it to get to operating temperature before taking it out for the first time will the piston rings be bedding in on idle or will it make no odds?

I'll keep everything smooth on the first run and gradually increase the RPM a stage every 50 - 100 miles.

Thanks for the help