TravisBiggie

Ive been running 300whp on the stock motor for awhile until I got rod knock. With a new block, should I rebuild this head before tuning for more boost? As far as I know, the head had never had an issue, and I do not know the mileage. I do not leak any oil. I will be cleaning it up lighty definitely, but my friend insists I have it rebuilt.

Also, I got acl standard rod/main bearings. What clearances should I shoot for, rod and main bearings? (assuming they fit, will be using oem bearings on the ones that do not fit) These will be suggestions to my builder as he usually does oem builds. I am NOT assembling the block. Eagle rods, nippon coated pistons, LS crank. Shooting for 400+ with a 60 trim turbo, anyone know what I can expect? pretty much stock motor with 3" exhaust

Thanks

TravisBiggie

Also, can someone tell me if I need my block machined to use ARP main studs? I think I read this somewhere. The motor had rod knock when pulled.

OneBadTurboCRV

You are on a direct path to failure. As much questions as you always ask one would have thought you would have started researching by now. Either way, unless you groove the pistons for locks, either your rod choice or pistons choice isn't going to work. Also, cast pistons at that power level is down right foolish. You are lucky you only experienced a rod nock on your last build, your new one will most likely be catastrophic failure this time around. Most rod knocks come from over spinning a stock engine or detonation. Also, I highly doubt you purchased a brand new block... You should try to be more acurate in your descriptions if you want correct answers back.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

To answer one part of your question:
I would get the head redone for piece of mind knowing it has new parts installed such as valve seals

Schister66

Cast pistons on aftermarket rods...pointless. The whole point in building the bottom end is to ditch the cast pistons. This build will have more-or-less the same power capability as a stock engine. I would find a new set of pistons...and plus, they dont fit those rods to begin with.

As a reference for your build, check this thread: http://www.evans-tuning.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=326

TravisBiggie

The pistons are machined for aftermarket rods.

I have seen builds with these pistons push 500+ for a couple years. I'm going to max out my 60-1 t3, and call it a day (400-450whp)

Schister66

You know better than us, have fun



...report back when you blow it up

TravisBiggie

no wonder why I hate this forum. Everyone thinks their opinion is FACT and become offended when someone disagrees, then say "screw this guy"

Thanks for being so shallow minded. Why do you rebel so quickly when I simply reply to your post? Where in my post was offensive to you which lead you to tell me "report back when I blow it up"? Because YOU think cast pistons are pointless?

Also, don't forget to email everyone of these guys running these pistons and tell them their motors are going to blow, since "you know better than us"

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/boostedef91s-522whp-civic-hatch-progress-build-2752043/

sanman000719

and when you blow it up and get pissed off because you dont think anyone warned you well then you learn that there opinion is based on facts

TravisBiggie

I showed some info by providing a thread about the pistons, with nothing negative to say about them. Do you care to show some threads about these pistons failing miserably, with only negative things to say about em? Unlikely.

OneBadTurboCRV

You act like because it is or isn't on the Internet that it is FACT of it's existance or lack there of. Do you have a clue what it was like in even lets say 2000? You could pull up your favorite search engine and type in something common and get almost no results. You kids have no clue how spoon fed you really are and how easy you have it. The hard work has been done, it's up to you to use your brain.

The problem with some of us that most of us HAVE been there and HAVE done that. You need to understand that a turbo increases cylinder temperatures and exponentially increases dynamic compression. At the power level you are looking for, any questionable part of the tune will surely lead to catastrophic failure. There is a reason for different silicon levels (obviously other factors) in pistons as well as pricing and affordability. We assume this is your daily driver, and unless you sacrifice some decent power you will be pushing your luck.

You need to take into account that most people just parrot whatever they heard or seen posted somewhere else because those people were possibly doing the same thing. Modifying these cars has been around for some time and you will have veterans that have been doing it for 15-20 years. Most of the people "in the know" don't take the time to post on forums, unfortunately; but most of the reason they don't is because of threads just like this. Have fun.

nu2teg

You can only try but nothing is indestructable!

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Never understood the need for these"what kinda power do you'd think I'd make" threads. Put it on a dyno.

Schister66

You aren't going to find many examples of this, simply because there aren't many people willing to waste the time/effort to build an engine for FI using "stock" cast pistons, especially with aftermarket rods. The weak point in stock Honda motors is the cast ringlands, followed by the composition of the piston itself. As N3vA said, there is a difference in the silica content between the two...and stock pistons don't like to be heated as much, due to the lower content. Rather than dissipating the heat, they will heat up, begin to melt, and cause detonation/pre-ignition.

Here's what to expect: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/melted-pistons-2733542/ or this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/pic-my-piston-whats-story-3148314/

^^He was making a fair bit of power, but then again, you can do that on a stock bottom end if you want. No sense in building it with anything other than forged pistons. Also, there's no reason to use Eagle rods when stock rods will suffice.

...and for the record, i'm not trying to argue with you, but rather, we're trying to save you an expensive headache

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

If he's going to do the pistons, even Eagle rods will do better than stock. 350whp on stock rods vs. the 600whp on Eagles, with better rod bolts? no brainer here.