I really need some advice, cuz I don't know jack about brakes. This will be for a Street Driven 1994 Integra LS, 400ish HP. After doing some searching I came up with this:

- Brembo Blanks
- Porterfield R4S Pads
- Motul 600 Fluid
- Stainless Steel Lines

I originally wanted to go with Stock Rotors with AEM pads, but from what I've seen is that AEM doesnt make LS pads, I could be wrong thou.

Could you guys recommend the cheapest route I can go with. I have money, but I don't spend it on something I really don't need....like the SS lines.

Most posts I've read, say just stick with Stock Rotors and get this:

- Porterfield R4S Pads
- Motul 600 Fluid

Please let me know what is a good route to go with. And also, where do I buy this stuff, any members offering these?

* I was surprised that there werent that many 'brake' related threads in the FI section.

 

 

anyone?

 

Get a Wilwood kit. I've seen em for 500 bones sometimes on ebay and around and whatnot. Summit has them brand new for 595

 

The brake fluid doesn't really help that much save prevent boiling in the lines. If you want decently cheap stuff go to your local Ford dealer and pick up some Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid. It has a higher temp than ATE Super Blue race fluid, which is what I ran before, and it's quite cheap.

SS lines are probably a good idea. With lines you want to watch out for fraying at the fitting connections. Fabbing your own isolator so the line doesn't bend at the fitting is a good idea. Earl's SS lines have this isolator already incorporated, FYI. It's also a good idea to have a cover over the line to prevent dirt/debris from getting caught between the braid and the teflon tubing and abrading the teflon tube, eventually causing failure. You can make this cover yourself out of whatever you want or buy lines that already have it. Goodridge lines are so equipped and so are Neuspeed.

With SS lines it's a good idea to pick up a master cylinder brace or make one yourself. When the weak link is moved from the rubber lines, some of that weak link ends up in firewall flex. A Cusco/Spoon MC brace will prevent firewall flex and stiffen the pedal further, or just DIY fab one. I did.

Porterfield pads =
Brembo blanks =
I've heard bad things about AEM pads.

Remember brake performance depends on tire capability. Sticky tires are a must if you want to use the brakes well. If you have ABS remember that upgrading the brakes too much will cause the system to freak out. Just a thought.

 

so where can I buy these? any hookups on here?

wilwood is too much $ for what I want to spend.

 

Hawk HP Street or even better....hawk HP PLUS pads. Go to http://www.tirerack.com as they have great prices. fantastic pads that make your car halt. I've had them on 3 different cars and i've been satisfied

 

HP+ pad dust eats paint does it not? Also the pads are noisy...

HPS is far more streetable IMO!

 

if you're around the markham area check out speedstar they carry endless pads I think i got quoted 160 CDN for the pair

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The brake fluid doesn't really help that much save prevent boiling in the lines. If you want decently cheap stuff go to your local Ford dealer and pick up some Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid. It has a higher temp than ATE Super Blue race fluid, which is what I ran before, and it's quite cheap.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The dry boiling point of the Ford fluid is VERY high, but its wet boiling point is quite a bit lower than comparable fluids. This means that you have to make sure you always have good fresh fluid. Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind.

Porterfield pads are awesome.

 

I didn't know that; thanks for the tip!

 

I have the same power you are wanting. I run axxis ultimate pads with cobalt racing rotors and ATE super blue fluid. Dont waste your money on steel braided lines. THat whole setup didnt cost me much at all and its plenty good. I do some autocrossing as well...Contact Andy at CObalt Friction Technologies..he is on the board.

 

how are these compared to the ultimate ones.

seems like a good price

http://www.importrp.com/groupbuy/metalmaster.html

 

I'd look into Cobalts. http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
Andie is very helpful and gives a 10% H-T discount.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bnjmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd look into Cobalts. http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
Andie is very helpful and gives a 10% H-T discount.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He is very helpful and it also helps to support or H-T vendors.

 

I really need some advice, cuz I don't know jack about brakes. This will be for a Street Driven 1994 Integra LS, 400ish HP. After doing some searching I came up with this:
- Brembo Blanks
- Porterfield R4S Pads
- Motul 600 Fluid
- Stainless Steel Lines

I originally wanted to go with Stock Rotors with AEM pads, but from what I've seen is that AEM doesnt make LS pads, I could be wrong thou.

Could you guys recommend the cheapest route I can go with. I have money, but I don't spend it on something I really don't need....like the SS lines.

I almost have to call BS on this one, first of all anyone who is (supposedly) running 400hp on a *cough* streetable LS which in itself is pretty hard to believe would have had to have poured some serious dough into that engine and car tomake 400hp streetable and now he's looking at cheap braking upgrades

 

Do blanks and spend the extra $$$ from the lines on pads. As stated Hawk HPS are excellent, as are Porterfields. I have heard evil, evil things about EBC Greenstuffs. I've also had KVR Carbon Fiber pads - they bit like heck when hot but were hard to stop with when cold. It was rare you'd get them up to operating temp. Right now I'm only seeing drag race stops and street use so I'm using Raybestos pads.

Pads are a tradeoff. Pure race pads won't work well on the street (they won't get hot enough to grip and will not stop the car effectively in a panic situation). Pure street pads will only work well once or twice before they begin to gas out and fade. Decide seriously what you need before buying. There's an excellent post in the Tech forum by stoptech - it contains links to stoptech articles on fluid, brake pads, well proportioned systems, etc - I hightly recommend reading it.

Brake fluid need only be upgraded if it's going to be seeing track use - it's better to replace the fluid more regularly than go double the interval on fluid that's twice as expensive, because the fluid is hygroscopic by design and boiling point goes down dramatically with small water inclusion %s. Stick with DOT3, IMO and change yearly. DOT4 will work also, and DOT5.1 is going to be the best, but it's expensive. DOT5 is *** for street use because it's silicone based and will be slightly compressible, causing an elastic pedal effect (soggy pedals).

 

Good post, but I disagree with you on the SS break lines. I think it was one of the best upgrades I have done to the breaking system. I am running ITR setup on my car with stock brembo blanks, Hawk HP+ pads, SS lines and Motul 600. I do run at the track 4-5 times a season and the breaks never fade. This setup also works very well on the street. You are absolutely right though about the break fluid, once you upgrade to this level of fluid you have to flush your system often, but the benefits will speak for themselves. Besides if you can do your own oil change bleading breaks shouldn't be a problem.

In your case, since you will be running stock integra size breaks I would definitively invest in Hawk HP+ pads. They are the most aggressive street pad from Hawk, but they will not eat your rotors. I previously ran the Hawk Blue on my stock civic breaks with rear drums and I was able to out break Type R's without a problem, specially on a tighter course where power wasn't an issue. The problem was that I was going through a set of rotors in about a month .

In the end all I can say is you can only go as fast as you can stop.

 

JeremyL, maybe if you bothered searching you would find that this is the most affordable and probably the best route to go with. I have messaged well known people on here and they have all said that Brembo Blanks with good pads and fluid is the way to go. Some even said stick with the factory brakes. And this is probably affordable for anyone on here with a small budget.

Not everyone has a good paying job. I have been working on my project for 2 years now and im a poor college student. It doesnt take a lot of dough to spend on building the engine, if you shop wisely. Sleepless nights refreshing the classifieds forum got me this far.

I would have even bought the wilwood kit, but talking to many people and hearing all the problems they have with that, I didnt go that route. And I never said I was running 400 hp, thats my goal. 400hp is more than reasonable on the street, as most can attest to it on this forum.

just wanted to say thanx to everyone for helping me out

 

my mistake i thought you said you had 400hp, i guess my definition of streetable is a little different from many...400hp on any FWD car i dont care what kind of suspension setup you have is gonna have its share of woes and will take some serious reinfrocement to get that power to the ground...any kind of street tires yeah right lol

the brakes on the LS are some of the dinkiest around 10.3 fronts are a joke for any kind of modern car, hell my WRX has 10.3 rear rotors and the fronts are 11.4. Granted just rotors and calipers alone do not make a superior braking system but think about 12-13 inch rotors with stainless lines, 4pot calipers and some top notch pads...how could that not be far superior to the stock sized brakes

hell even the AEM larger rotors would be a good idea, the larger surface area makes for increased brake torque which ultimately makes every other part of your braking system work better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeremyL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the brakes on the LS are some of the dinkiest around 10.3 fronts are a joke for any kind of modern car, hell my WRX has 10.3 rear rotors and the fronts are 11.4. Granted just rotors and calipers alone do not make a superior braking system but think about 12-13 inch rotors with stainless lines, 4pot calipers and some top notch pads...how could that not be far superior to the stock sized brakes</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno, the Integra brakes seem to work well on my CRX Of course stock is 9.1"... gotta take the size/weight of the car into consideration as well... and I guess it's far from modern... heheh...

I think I stated it above, but I never said SS lines were a BAD idea, just that you'll see more bite from a better set of pads than from SS lines And if you're getting SS lines, back those up with a good M/C brace and you'll see even more difference. But IMO pads are more important than lines unless the car is (like mine) 15+ years old!