Ive got all the pieces for my setup.. I just need some tips and help.

the setup
2000 Si.
aem
jdm header
apexi n1 and 2.5" pipe blah blah.

zex kit
75 shot
zex plugs
walbro

i know i gotta push the timing back 2 degrees to prevent the detonation. But i really just have a couple minor questions.
I HAVE SEARCHED!!

1. Zex uses the tps to activate the spray. Now once it reaches teh tps wot voltage does it continue to keep spraying or does it stop and only spray once?

2. By going with the 75 shot on the b16 motor which is mint has 60G miles on it and is well maintained. Am i risking a high change of blowing it up with the silly 75 shot? i know the single cams take a beating but there really wasn't too much info on here with 75 shot and dry kit setups.

3. How do i set that stupid tps reading. i know what wire it is, i found that on here. How do i set it so that its at 4000 rpms constantly?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

nobody???

 

I'd use some different plugs

 

1. I believe it will keep spraying until you are out of the WOT

2. 75 shot is a little risky, but just make sure that you give her plenty of fuel to burn. DO NOT MISHIFT!!!! this will blow your engine if you are squeezing.

3. no clue as to what that means, i've never used a ZEX kit before.

 

thanks for the input
anybody else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hiddenEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know i gotta push the timing back 2 degrees to prevent the detonation. But i really just have a couple minor questions.
I HAVE SEARCHED!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

With a 75 shot you want to retard it 4 degrees..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hiddenEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. Zex uses the tps to activate the spray. Now once it reaches teh tps wot voltage does it continue to keep spraying or does it stop and only spray once?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its keeps spraying until you let of the gas(when the tps voltage drops below 4.1 volts)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hiddenEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. By going with the 75 shot on the b16 motor which is mint has 60G miles on it and is well maintained. Am i risking a high change of blowing it up with the silly 75 shot? i know the single cams take a beating but there really wasn't too much info on here with 75 shot and dry kit setups.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would say if you have an upgraded fuel pump you should be fine running a 75 shot if everything else is in order.. But if you dont know the answer to question #1 then why are you using a 75 shot.. It takes like 2 minutes to switch shot jets so just run a 55 shot until you get it working and know what your doing before jumping up..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hiddenEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3. How do i set that stupid tps reading. i know what wire it is, i found that on here. How do i set it so that its at 4000 rpms constantly?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know the black button on the side has something to do with that but I have never had to mess with it.. Also what do you mean by 4000 rpms constantly.. Im guessing thats you only want to spray above 4000 rpms right?? If so then you will need a rpm switch or better yet a rpm window switch from msd..


Just like what 1rs2nv said.. Dont miss a shift.. If you get the rpm window switch from msd then you can miss all the shifts you want since it will turn the nitrous on at a set rpm and turn it back off at a set rpm..
Nitrous is fun to use and I used it all the time on my old motor.. I tried to take a short cut with something and it screwed up and thats why its called my "old motor"..

 

For question #3, you can't set the ZEX kit to come on at a certain rpm, it will come on no matter what the rpm is, as soon as you reach the WOT voltage. You would need something like the Hondata nitrous controls to set the rpm at which the nitrous activates.

 

Everyone says the ZEX kit is easy. Forget that. Whats easier then running a supply line and triggerred power to a solenoid? I have an NOS wet kit and it works great and was easy as it could be to install. And I say an NOS wet kit is safer then a Zex dry kit anyday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slipslap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone says the ZEX kit is easy. Forget that. Whats easier then running a supply line and triggerred power to a solenoid? I have an NOS wet kit and it works great and was easy as it could be to install. And I say an NOS wet kit is safer then a Zex dry kit anyday.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes but what about a NOS wet kit to a ZEX wet kit..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

With a 75 shot you want to retard it 4 degrees..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man, that motor would be lazy when it's off the bottle. I say keep it -2 degrees. One step colder plugs (gap a little tighter) and premium gasoline only.

I think he answered everything else though.

 

I was just stating what ZEX says to do for the 75 shot..

 

I was only planning on retarding the timing 2 degrees regaurdless. at -4 it would run like pure dick all day long..
still is the daily driver!!!

fellas thanks for answering my questions.. appreciate it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes but what about a NOS wet kit to a ZEX wet kit..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dry kit is much better than a single nozzle wet kit.

 

I would run 50 or so max dry shot. You're motor will run lean momentary until you computer can pick it up and start dumping more fuel in then normal.

I'm running a 75 wet shot, NX. I'm using those Zex hyperformance plugs and they do just fine. I'm not sure of the timing, my accord has coil on plugs and timing is regulated for me.

One suggest: buy a fuel pressure safety switch and the msd rpm window switch. if you ever run lean, nitrous will be killed or if you hit rev limiter, nitrous will be killed. they are worth wild investments considering you could easily fry an engine

 

Thats more for V8s and stuff with big intakes. Our intakes are small and we don't get puddling. I check my spark plugs after each bottle and they all look the same. A direct port kit is better, but that in no way means a single fogger isn't good.

 

a word of advice get rid if the zex plugs they are absolutely crap, my car started miss firing and al sorts,
u cant tune the nitrous to kick in at certain revs u can make it kik in at certain throttle.

 

im reading up on the hondata s200 nitrous control... anybody ever use it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaAccordSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would run 50 or so max dry shot. You're motor will run lean momentary until you computer can pick it up and start dumping more fuel in then normal. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess you have no idea how a dry kit works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slipslap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats more for V8s and stuff with big intakes. Our intakes are small and we don't get puddling. I check my spark plugs after each bottle and they all look the same. A direct port kit is better, but that in no way means a single fogger isn't good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Puddling occurs more because of the surface on the inside of the manifold not because of the size of it. Fuel "sticks" to intake manifold surfaces. They were NOT designed to have fuel or liquid flowing through them. Puddling CAN occur in a Honda intake manifold.

 

dry kti ****!!!!!

it is a 2 sided debate, and i disagree with ryan and definately think wet kits, even single fogger, are better....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolfsburg2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i disagree with ryan and definately think wet kits, even single fogger, are better....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? Explain.

 

first off, don't post ****. a comment like that should be followed with an explaination of the dry kit.

dry kit, no additional fuel until you car's sensor can pick up the increase flow and start dumping more in. greatly this may be a matter of a second, but you you get hit lean during that time.

you are also limited by you're injectors with dry.

if I got it wrong, enlighten us...

 

Well a correctly set-up dry shot will add more fuel before the O2 sensor picks it up. It has a seperate solenoid that increases the fuel pressure when it's sprayed. It works off the pressure of the nitrous, the vacuum it creates is hooked to the FPR and that raises the fuel pressure. Therefore adding more fuel. There are also things called a pinch. it pinches the fuel return line which increases the the fuel pressure. And wioth the solenoid vacuum way to raise pressure has jets like the foggers do. it controls ow much vacuum is applied.

I prefer the wet kit myself. I have an NOS wet kit I made myself for under $200 buying parts seperately. Yes you can have puddling with a wet kit single fogger. Adirect port is a better set-up. But the single fogger is a good kit also. The puddling people talk about is a problem that V8s V6s had due to the larger intake manifolds. Ours are small and don't allow it as much time. Also thats why you put the fogger close to the TB with a wet kit. That cuts down on the time it's in the air. The moe time it's in the open air the more chance it has to puddle. And with the fogger 2 nozzle from NOS it helps atomize the fuel more mixing it wioth the nitrous to eliminate this. I have had no problems with my wet kit and don't foresee any. But anything can happen. I just feel better when I add the fuel I need directly, instead of relying on the sensors and FPR hook up to work. Any could fail though.

Thats when a fuel pressur eswitch come sin handy. If the fuel pressure drops below certain setting or doesn't rise it cuts the nitrous. Thats a good idea for either set-up. To me IMO the dry kit is kinda like going turbo with an FMU and a wet kit is like using Hondata. Thats just me though. The main thing with nitrous is don't get trigger happy, moderation is the key. You can use it a long time with no problems. But if you go thru a bottle a week, watch out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1RS2NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. 75 shot is a little risky, but just make sure that you give her plenty of fuel to burn. DO NOT MISHIFT!!!! this will blow your engine if you are squeezing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I somehow accidentally went from the end of 4th gear to 3rd while juicing a 75 shot on a stock B16 with advanced timing. The tach flew up passed 9k but no damage was done.

Just thought i'd share that

 

Thanks, there's a couple of tricks I never knew about.