b15ser

im sorta a newb at turbos i mean i know alot but not enough, any ways i have a turbo acura cl and i cant seem to find the strength in me to shell out 160 bucks for an oil drain line from the turbo to the oil pan....
the way it was set up before the hose blew was just a fitting on the side leaving the turbo to the oil pan with no fitting on that side just clamped down to the fitting on the oil pan not obviously i wanna fix it the right way but like i said iv checked it out and a guys is charging me 160 for a steelbraided oil line with all the fittings and i just need any help on were or if anyone will sell me one for cheaper oh and how much does it run to have a bung welded onto an oil pan? thanks in advance

and heres my car








and yuup its a single cam

b15ser

any one?

dpetro1

pics of the oil return would help, so we can see what exactly you are working with. $160 sounds high for just a line but maybe they are charging to pull the oil pan and weld a bung??? i could see the price going up for that extra labor.

b15ser

na its just for the oil line and the fittings

tofast4uh22

all you need is a 10an weld fitting for the pan 8$. 2ft of 10an line of your choice $20 prob. a 1/2npt by 10an 45degree angle $9 and two 10an stright fittings $20. and hopefully you have the 2 bolt flange that bolts to the bottom of the turbo and that is where the 1/2npt fitting threads into if you dont have that then you will need to buy it but you should allready have it. so it should cost you roughly 60 dollars. plus the labor to have the oil pan pulled and welded. hope this helps. you can buy all of these fittings from b&r fittings on here. or anplumbing.com or racepartssolution.com or summit.com
good luck.

b15ser

heres the line that was on as u can see there are only fittings on the turbo side



heres the oilpan fitting

b15ser

thanks man and yes i have the fitting from the turbo were i went to check it out each fitting was 25 and up and the guy grabbed 5 fittings now idk y but he said all were nessecary for it to work properly but im gann look into this cause the oil pan has a fitting but the oil pan is cracked so i have to replace it anyways but il let u know how it goes thanks again.

dpetro1

thanks for the pics. the problem is that you are using an AN fitting on the oil pan and its missing a piece (the piece that actually seals the line)

is there a another fitting between the blue fitting and pan?? or does the pan have a maile -10 welded on? can you remove the blue fitting and take another picture?

you can fix this yourself for pretty cheap

b15ser

hey i just looked at it now and it looks like its 2 pieces connected to the oil pan, that peice is connected to a fitting that is welded onto the oil pan... is it ok to use something like this



that way i dnt have to buy all those fittings just reuse the ones it allready has

Tulo

That would be true if this weren't the case:


What I would like to know is how you blew a stainless steel braided oil return line,without the proper fittings, in the first place? It's gravity fed and secured by(I'm assuming) a worm screw clamp on one side, so it's not like it's under ANY amount of pressure or anything, and even if it was, the clamp should have failed before you burst a SS braided line. Unless the line never 'blew', and your only problem is a cracked pan.

The shop you went to may be trying to up-sell you on a brand new set of return line fittings(some of which it looks like you already have) in order to have a 'proper' return line set up. This may or may not be a bad thing. If the return line was wrapped around the downpipe or something and a hole was worn into it, then the return setup may need to be started over from scratch.

dpetro1

so is it a male -10 an welded to the pan? if so you will need to use a AN fitting. you can make what you have work with a few fittings

EDIT: missed the part about a cracked pan. also i dont think the hose actually "blew" but came off because he was trying to clamp a hose to an AN fitting

if you are starting fresh then just get an oil return kit from stealthmode, fast-turbo, B&R fittings etc.

LightningTeg

This thread is LoL

Tulo

It's hard to tell from the pictures you posted, but it looks like there may be a pretty sharp(i.e. unacceptable) kink in the line the way it was set up before. A better picture of the route the line actually has to take to get from turbo to pan would be a big help. And like dpetro said, you may need very little, to make what you already have work well. Aside from a new oil pan if in fact your's is too damaged.

Since you already have a female oil return flange on your turbo, it looks like you could make a proper return line with:
- (1) Male to Male -10AN Adapter for Female Flange
- (1) -10AN Straight Hose Fitting for Turbo
- (1) -10AN 45 Degree or Straight Fitting for Oil Pan
- (1) -10AN SS Braided Line (Slightly Longer Than Original)

If you need to get a new oil pan, it will need to have a -10AN Male fitting welded onto it for the parts listed above to work.

Tulo

That looks like a decent return setup. The problem is, you DON'T already have those fittings. You have miscellaneous AN fittings and tried to use them as if they were barb fittings.

An AN setup is best, a barb setup is second best. What you tried to do was mix and match parts from both setups, which is NOT a good idea.

Guys that have been around the block a few times will always recommend to spend a little more and 'Do it right the first time'. It initially may cost a little more, but ends up saving you money in the long run. This is a perfect example of that. Because your setup wasn't done properly the first time, more money than what was initially required will be needed to fix it properly. Either get the proper AN fittings that you need, or switch to all barb fittings.

EDIT: I hope I'm not coming off as overly critical, just trying to educate and explain why things are the way they are.

b15ser

no not at all im just real short on money right now and i need to have the car running so i just boughtan oil pan and have to get the fitting welded on but i just need a simple fix for now so down the road i can fix it properly and the line didnt blow it just came off the fitting im guessing the clamp gave but im just wondering for now cant i just clamp it back in place maybe using too clamps to get her running for now i plan on selling it in a lil bit cause i need something with less things that can go wrong anyone interested? anyways thanks for the input and i appreciate it so for now im just going to get the oil pan welded with the fitting and just clamp it back in place for the time being thanks

b15ser

and there is now hole or anything like dat wrong with the line it just came off i assumed it was broken until i saw that it was missing fittings and was just held down by a clamp before that it wasnt leaking or anything like that so its ganna have to do for now

b15ser

bump

HiProfile

You should post this on RHMT. That DP weld is fabulous. Very manly with all that "hair" on it.

All a return line is a few fittings that seal well. If you have NPT threads, which is what AN fittings end in, you can convert to a barbed fitting like the one on your turbo. It's just that all the ballers use AN fittings instead of the cheaper, yet just as effective hardware.



BTW if you are blowing the hose off, it's tellign me it's either hitting something or there is rediculous crank case pressure. Make sure no vent on the VC goes back to the IM or charge pipes, but instead goes to atmosphere or a catch can. If your PCV is all that vents the crankcase, it's closed under boost and creating pressure right where you do not want it (crankcase!).

b15ser

thanks guys for all ur input but anyways i got the oilpan tapped today instead of buying the fitting and line ( short on money) i instead had a small tube welded onto the oilpan and just have the hose clamped and sealed to it the guys over at gato performence in Fl did it for me and this is how it came out



and heres how it looks with the hose just barley put on


of course ima going to clamp it down maybe put some silicone sealer or something on there but it will do for now.

b15ser

This will work for now right?

dpetro1

it should work. it will probably eventually leak a little since braided hose isnt really made for barb fittings and hose clamps. much better than trying to clamp to an AN fitting though

b15ser

thanks

jadenhatch

Try this.. I know you already fixed it, but this is the waaaay better way to do it.. and deff not that bad of a price. What your doing is gonna leak.. this is too easy of a fix.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...Q5fAccessories

b15ser

where were u when i needed help Lol joking but thanks man i allready welded that tube on there but thats not expensive at all if anything il cut of the tube and weld it shut and try this thanks alot

b15ser

bumpppppppppppppp