Need help! Problems installing CPR 440cc injectors and the dreaded block grinding!!!
Problem #1 - Block Grinding: I have a log style manifold and when I test fit everything, the turbo hits the block pretty bad. I think it's hitting worse on that vertical section just to the right of that (drain plug?) bolt. I was wondering, how much can I grind away at that w/o putting a hole in it?
Problem #2 - Injectors: the tops of the injectors wont fit into the fuel rail. It seems like the 0-ring is way too big. When I push the fuel rail down onto the injectors there's still like a 3/4" gap before the rail is all the way down. How do i get around that?
Problem #2 - Injectors: the tops of the injectors wont fit into the fuel rail. It seems like the 0-ring is way too big. When I push the fuel rail down onto the injectors there's still like a 3/4" gap before the rail is all the way down. How do i get around that?
its not the o-rings on the injectors its the Hole top of the injector including the o-rings
up for some quick help were in the process of the install
up for some quick help were in the process of the install
cant grind too much in that area, its maybe 1/4 thick. who made the log >?
what kinda turbo u runnin ? the Fmax desin theries to not need any grinding at all.
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either you have something wrong t3/t04e with fmax should not need any shaving maybe a little but not where you are pointing at .
either you have something wrong t3/t04e with fmax should not need any shaving maybe a little but not where you are pointing at .
Here's the block, it still needs to be ground down some more. How much further can I go? Is that whole vertical section solid, or is it pretty thin?

I've got more pics and questions to post but i'm runnin late, stay tuned till 9:30

I've got more pics and questions to post but i'm runnin late, stay tuned till 9:30
you should not have to cut that with any manifold for bseries not evne drag nor inline pro nor fmax should cut in that section of your block. you either are installing it wrong or doing something crzy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18bturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should not have to cut that with any manifold for bseries not evne drag nor inline pro nor fmax should cut in that section of your block. you either are installing it wrong or doing something crzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea jan i dunno man i dont remember it hitting there i thought it was more towards the bolt/plug. bump it up for the help we only have 1 week to get the turbo on and running...
Yea jan i dunno man i dont remember it hitting there i thought it was more towards the bolt/plug. bump it up for the help we only have 1 week to get the turbo on and running...
It's definately hitting there...


and this isn't good, is it... How do you shorten a braided line?


and this isn't good, is it... How do you shorten a braided line?
Yea I know, that's how I got it. That's why I asked "how do you shorten a braided line?" Do you know?
and back to the block... How much more can be shaved off?
and back to the block... How much more can be shaved off?
He means that it's too low on the oil pan. It'll back up.
You can fix the line by removing the hose-end and trimming the hose back. See Earl's, Aeroquip's, or Goodridge's site for instructions on installing hose-ends.
You can fix the line by removing the hose-end and trimming the hose back. See Earl's, Aeroquip's, or Goodridge's site for instructions on installing hose-ends.
Once I shorten the line, will it still be bad? Like is it useable, or do I NEED to get a new pan/fix this one?
se if any company makes an extention for the turbo and manifold. im sure that many people who make the manifold can rig something up inbetween, so it doesnt hit the block. this is by far the worst i've seen yet.
You can either weld shut/cap that return bung or get a new pan to weld a new bung into.
The line needs to be shortened regardless b/c it has that dip in the line that will only get worse if you move the bung on the pan further up, but I wouldn't shorten it until you get the bung placement on the pan sorted out first.
The line needs to be shortened regardless b/c it has that dip in the line that will only get worse if you move the bung on the pan further up, but I wouldn't shorten it until you get the bung placement on the pan sorted out first.
Damn, the problems just keep pileing up... Does anyone know if that part of the block is solid or not? I dont think I have much more grinding to do, just a little.
see if you can add a couple gaskets between the manifold and block to give you some space. stop the grinding! its the webbing that usually needs the grinding not that part
Don't grind down anymore. Get a spacer for the manifold. With the oil return u can remove the earls fittings on the end. But dont grind anymore.


