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Old 03-23-2008, 10:09 PM
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Default Need help on motor brake in

is it safe to brake in a motor with the turbo installed or should i brake the motor in with headers? any advice will be grately appreciated, thanks


Modified by 9hatch2 at 8:35 AM 3/24/2008


Modified by 9hatch2 at 8:36 AM 3/24/2008
Old 03-23-2008, 10:15 PM
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Default Re: Need help on motor brake in (9hatch2)

i always let heather suck my dick.
Old 03-23-2008, 11:35 PM
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Default Re: Need help on motor brake in (count me out)

up and yea she does!!
Old 03-24-2008, 03:29 AM
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Default Re: Need help on motor brake in (9hatch2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9hatch2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it safe to brake in a motor with the turbo installed or should i brake the motor in with headers? any advice will be grately appreciated, thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

if its tuned then yes its ok to break it in with the turbo.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:34 AM
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thanks u sir!!
Old 03-24-2008, 11:32 AM
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cylinder pressure is critical to push/seat the rings against the cylinder wall surface.
Old 03-24-2008, 06:40 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cylinder pressure is critical to push/seat the rings against the cylinder wall surface. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean area of low pressure aka vacuum? fresh rings dont seat as well when youre trying to push something past them, thats why its recommended you use compression to slow down when breaking in a motor.
Old 03-24-2008, 08:32 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you mean area of low pressure aka vacuum? fresh rings dont seat as well when youre trying to push something past them, thats why its recommended you use compression to slow down when breaking in a motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that helps but when you have a power stroke it forces gases through the ring lands which in turn forces the rings outward into the cylinder walls, this is what does most of the work to seats the rings not decel.
Old 03-24-2008, 09:42 PM
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i believe running the motor with the throttle body closed creating an area of LOW pressure makes a better seal than trying to force things past them.


Modified by count me out at 7:50 PM 3/25/2008
Old 03-25-2008, 09:49 PM
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As long as the car is already tuned...break it in as hard as you can! It usually takes me 30 minutes and about 7-10 passes on the dyno with at least 26psi to break in the motor. Sounds harsh but it works. You need to push those rings out and make them seat.
Old 03-25-2008, 10:20 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe running the motor with the throttle body closed creating an area of LOW pressure makes a better seal than trying to force things past them.


Modified by count me out at 7:50 PM 3/25/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i see what your saying but rings work from pressure behind them forcing them to seal against the cylinder wall, ever wonder how rings with only a few pounds of tension can seal hundreds of psi of cylinder pressure
Old 03-26-2008, 06:04 AM
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ok so im gona install my turbo set up, and take it to get it tune. does that sound about rigth? even if the motor is freshly built.
Old 03-26-2008, 08:45 AM
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Default Re: (9hatch2)

if i was you i would keep the motor as close to stock as you can. Take it and have it tuned then broke it in and do all the oil changes and get all that metal out your engine. Then install the turbo kit and whatever other perfomance parts you have and get it tuned again. But thats just me. I wouldnt want all thoses pieces of metal moving through my $1300 turbo!!! Plus if its close to stock it will be simple for your tuner to dial it in very quickly! You might as well just break it in on the dyno. Yeah and rape the hell out of it!!
Old 03-26-2008, 08:57 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steven_highet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i was you i would keep the motor as close to stock as you can. Take it and have it tuned then broke it in and do all the oil changes and get all that metal out your engine. Then install the turbo kit and whatever other perfomance parts you have and get it tuned again. But thats just me. I wouldnt want all thoses pieces of metal moving through my $1300 turbo!!! Plus if its close to stock it will be simple for your tuner to dial it in very quickly! You might as well just break it in on the dyno. Yeah and rape the hell out of it!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
...not sure what metal you are talking about but there should be no metal that comes apart when you break in a motor.
Old 03-26-2008, 09:17 AM
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Default Re: (PHDZINE)

Well there will be metal from the rings bedding into the cyclinder walls. May not be alot but there is still metal. If there was no metal there would be no need for you to change you oil 3 times in 1000 miles. What you gotta lose by playing it safe. The more veriables left out of the first 1000 miles and break in the better off you will be. Lke i wanna see someone try to break in brand new cams on there first start up of a freshly build motor, aint gonna happen. Thats why break it in then add to it. Becuase if a problem does arise it is easer to track down and diagnose! I find it helps me focus on the engine alone. Like i said this is just the way I like to do things.
Old 03-26-2008, 09:21 AM
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Thats because your a pansie stephen and you can no longer rep l-town you gotta change it to fairmont Daddy. I believe either way will be fine as long as you know your air fuel ratios. How many miles do you plan on for your break in process.
Old 03-26-2008, 09:27 AM
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Default Re: (PHDZINE)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by count me out &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe running the motor with the throttle body closed creating an area of LOW pressure makes a better seal than trying to force things past them.


Modified by count me out at 7:50 PM 3/25/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then I guess you don't know how rings seal.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dbiker207 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that helps but when you have a power stroke it forces gases through the ring lands which in turn forces the rings outward into the cylinder walls, this is what does most of the work to seats the rings not decel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They use the vacuum from decel not to seat the rings, but rather to help pull all of the very fine metal bits from the cylinders and get them out of the engine.

Break the car in on a dyno.
Old 03-26-2008, 09:42 AM
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HAHA either way they are both dumps!!

This has more to do with metal in the oil creating un-needed wear on other components. Mileage will change for different grit hone jobs. Constant leak-down and compression tests through a motors break-in period will let you know how things are going. Maybe after 500 miles 3 cylinders are at 195 and one is at 180 which means you still have some breaking in to do in order to bring that cylinder up to the rest. Once all four cylinders have stabilized and constantly staying the same then I would add to the performance parts and take it from there. There are just so many differet ways that people like to do things everyone is gonna do it differently. As long as you achieve the end result you wanted thats what counts.
Old 03-26-2008, 09:45 AM
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Old 03-26-2008, 01:20 PM
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Default Re: (steven_highet)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steven_highet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well there will be metal from the rings bedding into the cyclinder walls. May not be alot but there is still metal. If there was no metal there would be no need for you to change you oil 3 times in 1000 miles. What you gotta lose by playing it safe. The more veriables left out of the first 1000 miles and break in the better off you will be. Lke i wanna see someone try to break in brand new cams on there first start up of a freshly build motor, aint gonna happen. Thats why break it in then add to it. Becuase if a problem does arise it is easer to track down and diagnose! I find it helps me focus on the engine alone. Like i said this is just the way I like to do things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is over kill but....to each man his own!
Old 03-28-2008, 09:14 AM
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lol. i know right!
Old 03-28-2008, 09:50 AM
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Default Re: Need help on motor brake in (9hatch2)

My motor saw 15psi within the first 20 miles
Old 03-28-2008, 11:04 AM
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Default Re: Need help on motor brake in (SOHC_MShue)

some men are braver than others!
Old 03-28-2008, 06:00 PM
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Default Re: Need help on motor brake in (steven_highet)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steven_highet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some men are braver than others! </TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean some men are smarter than others. you have no idea what your talking about.
Old 03-31-2008, 01:59 PM
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Default Re: Need help on motor brake in (dbiker207)

good job on the helpful information there...not. Why dont you enlighten me then!


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