Midwest Auto Salon

I did a search and after long hours of thinkin of the best way I can build a car for a daily driven eg my goals were to reach about 350whp. I was wondering if my set up could A: hit 350whp B: last more than 1 summer of hard driving lol

B18a/b motor
eagle rods
arais pistons 9:1
honed
stock bore
port and polished head
skunk2 retainers, valves, springs
GSR camshafts
Skunk2 intake manifold
stainless 304 tubalr manifold
LS tranny

every piece that can be cryogenic (??) and thermal coated by Swain Tech will be done so.

what size turbo would be best for daily driver and 350 kick *** whp??

BoostedEG6

I dont think the GSR cams will work in a LS head unless you are running LSV but from what you have listed that sounds like a good setup that will last if you have good tunning. What EMS where you thinking about running? I think a T3 60-1 would be a good turbo for you too

92civicb18b1

a T3 60 is too small.

Look into the GT or SC series.

mrDFWmechanic

upgrade to a vtec head and at least bore your block .50 over.

BoostedEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civicb18b1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a T3 60 is too small.

Look into the GT or SC series.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldnt say that now..... I have a friend who is making 600whp on a 60-1 and spool is very very nice on it. plus it seems he isnt trying to spend a hell of alot of money

Midwest Auto Salon

this is just a cheap quick fast ez car. I just bought a 95 si hatch and I am trying to complete this all in the next month from the motor build with turbo set up, suspension, then off to the body shop to get painted up black. I would sleeve it but it would take too long to get back and I dont feel comfortable buying a block sleeved already. right now our store has a 350whp DC and it runs low 12's full interior with stereo and everything and it seems plenty fast for me so if I could have the same numbers in an eg, then i am sure i will be happy. plus i have a 04 r1 we are throwing a turbo on....thanks for the help

HatchEh2

if i were you.. CHUCK the Ls tranny for a GSR or ITR.. youll regret using the wide Ls tranny and wont really feel the great potential of your setup..

You mind aswell strengthen that bottom end with a block Gaurd aswell, when you do that your gonna need to bore it atleast .20 over. Obviously a hone comes next (which i see you've included)

and really you Dont need a VTEC head, the boost compensates for the power.. (although it would be nice), only thing is i dont think that cam will work to well in an Ls head..

i vote you find yourself a B16A2 head

Midwest Auto Salon

so what exactly should i go with?? any suggestions??

blundar

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i were you.. CHUCK the Ls tranny for a GSR or ITR.. youll regret using the wide Ls tranny and wont really feel the great potential of your setup..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not BAD advice, but without an impecable suspension setup and excellent rubber you'll have traction issues like a **** with an ITR tranny. FD is just too short when you start adding torque. GSR on the other hand... Wonderful.

If you already have the LS tranny and you don't feel like spending money, keep it. Personally, I'd spend $400 on a OBX LSD way before I upgraded to a GSR transmission. But then again, I'm not cool enough for honda-tech so you might want to listen to someone who is more hip to the bandwagon of the week.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You mind aswell strengthen that bottom end with a block Gaurd aswell, when you do that your gonna need to bore it atleast .20 over. Obviously a hone comes next (which i see you've included)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go back to physics class please. These statements show you obviously are a total cluebie. Block guards in a turbo motor are ******* stupid. They do NOT support the block where sidewall forces are at their peak (hint, it isn't at the top of the bore) AND they restrict coolant flow to the head in a serious way. Additionally, installing a block guard OUTSIDE the sleeves does not require you to bore the INSIDE of the sleeves.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and really you Dont need a VTEC head, the boost compensates for the power.. (although it would be nice), only thing is i dont think that cam will work to well in an Ls head.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some decent advice. **** a whole bunch of vtec heads. 350whp from a LS with rods/pistons is cake. Sure, you'll make more power at a given pressure level with a vtec head due to it's increased flow, but who cares? 9:1 compression is low enough that you could put cat urine in your gas tank as a fuel additive with 87 octane gas and STILL hit 350whp with proper tuning. Solution to having a head that doesn't flow as well: MORE ******* BOOST.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i vote you find yourself a B16A2 head</TD></TR></TABLE>
This isn't democracy. If you were to build a forced induction motor solely by taking polls on honda-*******-tech I would be willing to bet that you could do better with a properly engineered setup on a stock motor.

And to answer your question re: turbo, I think you need to answer a few questions yourself.
1. Do you want boost to come on gradually or like a freight train making an unexpected appearance in your living room?
2. Around what RPM do you want to be able to make some boost? full boost?
3. Do you want a turbo that is well suited to your current goals or a turbo that gives you room to grow in the future?

It's your car and how YOU want it to drive is the biggest factor you should consider when choosing a turbo.

Midwest Auto Salon

hahaha i like this guy

blundar

Answer those 3 questions and I'll help you choose a turbo.

oh yeah, how much you want to spend? That's probably the biggest factor involved in turbo selection.

Midwest Auto Salon

I want a turbo that hits hard at about 5k and pulls to redline pretty hard instead of taperin off. i would like to ideally get 350 whp in the eg. total cost projected is about 10k. my turbo kit will be fabbed up by our affiliates Full Blown Motorsports. all work will be done by myself and my head mechanic. i would like a turbo also where it gets me to 350 whp and when i DO blow the motor and then sleeve it i want a tubo that will help me surpass that mark when ready...really all i want is a daily driven high 11 second beater to rep the store..without sleeving for now...

blundar

Ok, so let me clarify.

1. Cost for the turbocharger component is somewhat of a non-issue because your budget is ******* huge.

2. You don't give a **** about spool below 5000 RPMs. (Remember, LS motors typically do not rev past 7500 RPM w/o valvetrain upgrades, and a LS transmission is *not* a close-geared tranny)

3. You're more concerned with not having to buy a new turbo later on when you upgrade further than you are with throttle response and drivability now.

You can't have your cake and eat it too - this is engineering not story time. I'm trying to make YOU clearly decide on some of the tradeoffs in the system.

Few people have similar taste to me, but Jeff's car that I recently finished up was close. Taking it to the dyno Monday. With just a few hours of street tuning, the stock GSR on 9psi w/ minor weight reduction (est. 2400lbs) that our shop put together hung within 1/2 carlength of a Procharger Mustang (450+whp) 30-130mph + whooped the **** out of a SRT4 pushing 22psi (multiple carlengths). It also was spooling the turbo around 3200-3500 RPM with full boost under 4000. It was seriously ******* fun to drive.

Midwest Auto Salon

i plan onusing skunk2 components for the head...to rev high

_entropy

Not a god damn chance I would take an LSD in an LS trans over a non LSD GSR or ITR trans. I don't give a **** if you're running on 135 wide 13" snow tires, you will have a much more fun to drive car running either of the tighter geared transmissions. Falling out of boost after shifts is gay as hell, and so is the laughable acceleration in fourth gear. It sucks for the track, it sucks for the street.

blundar

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Napoleon Dynamite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not a god damn chance I would take an LSD in an LS trans over a non LSD GSR or ITR trans. I don't give a **** if you're running on 135 wide 13" snow tires, you will have a much more fun to drive car running either of the tighter geared transmissions. Falling out of boost after shifts is gay as hell, and so is the laughable acceleration in fourth gear. It sucks for the track, it sucks for the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's because you build bandwagons and I build street cars.

My (RIP) LS/turbo CRX had no problems whatsoever with falling out of boost between shifts, or ripping a set of SP8000s loose in 1,2,3 on dry ground like it was its job. Laughable acceleration in 4th gear? Hung with modded SRT4s, modded DSMs running 18-24psi of boost, killed a R32 skyline once, etc. etc. Everyone who drove it agreed that not only was it one hell of a fast street car, it was pure sex to drive. I'll say it over and over and over again - it's all about making the components you choose work together!!!

And Midwest Auto dude, if you want real help instead of a bunch of jackass opinions, you need to be a lot more specific in determining your needs. Or you can do like everyone else on h-t and do what is "cool" ... I'm done with this thread unless you actually define your priorities a LOT more precisely. I gave you the questions...