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Modified by urbansi at 3:52 PM 5/4/2008

 

How long have you had this block? Do you know the history of it? What killed the last motor?

 

That blows What was the mileage on the motor before you had it built? Did you check the piston ringlands and skirts for damage? I know you said the pistons show no sign of detonation, but I didn't know if you were speaking of the faces only or the entire unit.

Sorry for you loss, man

 

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Modified by urbansi at 3:53 PM 5/4/2008

 

Well if the block is in good condition and you know it was not overheated I dont know what to tell you. Either it picked up some detonation, or was weakend from the last tune that cracked the ringlands.

 

I had a new rebuilt block at only 11lbs and did about 10-15 good dyno pulls and good tuning conservative.

Blew the block on the way home!!! Not pushing it hard at all. Not sure what the culprit was but now I am sleeving just to make sure. If this goes..I'm done...

 

What ignition timing are you guys running?

 

Car was on 15* of timing when it went, plugs looked perfect...

 

Maybe **** just happens? I hope this was a freak incident, I doubt Dave's tuning or your selection of parts have anything to do with it blowing.

 

couple of things stick out at me. one, the pistons were never prepped propely before instillation, and there coudl have been hot spots that forumed on them and that coudl cause pre-mature detonation thuis doing this.

next it could also be tuning was not conservitive enough or timming off.

what about mechanical timming? is that set correctly?

a block splitting like that usually means detonation. so it's tune or preperation/confituration

 

Some blocks are different from others. First, that block could have been served some hella abuse before you got it. Also, due to core shift, some blocks hit aluminum at 82mm, so that could have put you too close. Too many variables.

 

that sucks...the engine looks mint otherwise

 

#3 cylinder...hottest one. may have been on borrowed time since the initial broken ringlands. Possibly the steel was fatigued to much before it was assembled. detonation is like a hot air hammer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some blocks are different from others. First, that block could have been served some hella abuse before you got it. Also, due to core shift, some blocks hit aluminum at 82mm, so that could have put you too close. Too many variables.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you read his post? This motor has never been in anyones elses possession. Has owned it from day one when he bought the car. I would definetly have to say detonation or a spike is your culprit. Are you CERTAIN that there was no damage to #3 when you had your first mishap? Not even a microscopic hair line crack?

 

i can see vaguely in the cyl #4... i can see lateral scarring if that what that is, cant see to good from the pic... check for scars in the other cyls etc.

 

if you blew the motor up one time before the detonation that cracked the ringlands also weakened the sleeves.

stock sleeves work good as long as they are not hurt, but once you hurt em they cant hold the power very long. stock sleeve motors are hit or miss, some hold 600hp, some hardly get away with 275.

edit: take it apart and take pics of the back sides of the rod bearings and check to make sure the wrist pin isnt grooved up. that'll tell you right there what happened.

 

ona side note, you could sleeve the block still

 

 

Hmm, maybe stock sleeves aren't always good for 600whp? But i read on the internet that they were?

 

They were probably already weak from when the ringlands broke. Time to resleeve

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, maybe stock sleeves aren't always good for 600whp? But i read on the internet that they were? </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, maybe stock sleeves aren't always good for 600whp? But i read on the internet that they were? </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha it must be true if u read it on the internet or if its in a magazine!

 

What does Dave have to say about it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, maybe stock sleeves aren't always good for 600whp? But i read on the internet that they were? </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbansi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Turbo kit was a 50 trim that put down a conservative 354whp and 257 tq@17psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not quite 600whp...unless my math is really that bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not quite 600whp...unless my math is really that bad</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock sleeves arent always good for 300hp

the **** is STOCK that means its good for the 180 or whatever hp they have from the get go, nothing more!!!

 

everyone always state conservative tune, only the egt's can state what conservative is not afr. this problem has occurred due excessive heat or coolant not doing its job on that cylinder. broken ringland from previous build will not weaken the sleeve enough to cause this.