I just bought the pan and when I install it and the oil drain plug it continues to leak from the plug. I wrapped the plug 3 times with the threads with some teflon tape and it still runs from the plug. I am out of ideas I even tried the stock plug and that doesn't work either. Does this need to be torqued because I could of sworn it was just wratchet tight.

 

Sounds like the thread on the pan it self is damaged, if you've tried 2 plugs and still leaking. You might want to try a 3rd plug for luck and if still leaks then get the thread re-tapped and use a different plug.

 

you shouldnt be relying on the threads to seal it, it should have a crush washer or rubber washer type thing on it to seal it.

 

IMO those Moroso pans are junk,I had one on my b16 and it leaked everywhere except the oil drain...there are a bunch of threads about them leaking if you search.

 

you must be using the new super synthetic mobile1 oil

use a crush washer. if that fails go back to OEM it always works. to OEM

 

I use royal purple 5w 30
I can try to retap the hole. Im going to try some honda xrush washers. It came with 2 but they are not plastic

 

Happened to us once on a GSR in ek. We put a little silicon on the threads then let it dry real good. Cleaned it all up and then put it back on the car with no problems. It was the back 1/2" or 3/4"npt that was leaking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSE980 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use royal purple 5w 30
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i have heard people in the past having problems with royal purple causing leaks from engine seals. but i have never used the stuff.

 

so put silicone instead of teflon tape ??

 

Just a dab on the threads.

 

I have an OBX aluminum pan on my EK and have always had leaking issues with it. This go around I tried using Honda-bond HT and not a leak.

You shouldn't use thread tape on non-tapered threads. The thread tape is designed for when the threads are doing the actual sealing and not the drain plugs head it self. Use a copper or aluminum drain plug seal and it should do the trick. I am not a believer of using sealant on the drain plug. Cause your going to have to make sure that the hole is spotless and the drain plug also so that the sealant will not become contaminated with oil.

You can also try using a self-tapping drain plug. They are available for a situation in which the drain plug hole was stripped out. It will actually cut the next size hole from what you have. Hope some of this helps out.

 

I bought our aluminum 5.5qt pan used and the threads were a little chewed and the flange where the crush washer seats was dented.

I tried to plane it flat, but it still leaked, so we first tried a fiber washer and that leaked, so I used a plastic crush washer this time around. I still don't know how well it works because the was put back together in a rush.

If the oil pan is leaking from the pan gasket, then forego the pan gasket and seal it to the block with Hondabond.

 

I tried Hondabond with and without the gasket on mine and it still didnt work,the pan wasnt warped either..i dont what the deal was so i put my oem pan back on and guess what it didnt leak.

 

mine leaked around edge... I sanded the thing flat, no more leak....

 

do they sell self tapping drain plugs with the magnetic tips...

 

I have a B16 w/ ERL's superdeck II design which is basically a deckplate machined/pressed on the top of the block to make it B18 deck height,,,,anyways i also got their 5point main girdle kit with ARP stud kit which now needs a GSR/or aftermarket pan...

What should i run?

dont mean to thread jack but I was thinking moroso but now i am concerned

 

I bought a moroso pan thinking it would be great for my turbo, so i didnt have to cut and weld a bung on..The fittings work great but my drain leaks and all around the pan leaks..changed the gasket twice and used rtv 1 time...Im thinking about putting my oem back on I never had a problem with that 1

 

I guess im the only one that doesnt leak. Mine is perfect. no leaks anywhere. According to moroso, they suggest you install the pan dry and clean. not hondabond. dont over tighten the nuts and bolts.

Im glad i dont have leaks. I also tighen my pan to honda specs. I guess Im lucky

 

One of the things we found out about the pans with the kickout is that you can't remove the LCA on that side without removing the oil pan first. The kickout needs to be shortened by an inch and a half to give the bolt clearance to back out all the way.

 

I have no idea what that means??? I tried teflon tape the original washer and this nylon washer we use on our hydraulic power supplies for the f18's I hope it works

 

lol i just bought one not to long ago and about to put it on hopefully i dont have problems like you guys do

 

just checked it today no leaks !!!!

 

+2 I have had the worst luck with royal purple therefore don't trust it. Coincidence? Maybe but I'm so jaded with that junk. Eneos on top of the list, Mobil 1 synth or castrol 5w30 non synthetic.

 

Oh and I installed a Moroso oil pan today on a LS vetec motor (b20) block. Leaked from the turbo oil return Allen bolt that comes on those, tightened leaked less, tightened some more (will check it tomorrow) sealed perfectly otherwise. Used gasket with no additional gasket sealant, Honda bond only on seems and very little. Reason for replacing OEM oil pan is for the baffles (road race) and I believe the Moroso has a bit more oil capacity. That along with a mishimoto oil cooler which is sweet and didn't leak whatsoever. 5qts of Eneos 5w40.

 

Thats very good. Just up heads, if you PM theshodan, he'll help you out.