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Whats up HT members! I've been reading the HT forums for years and just now decided to join in on the HT fun.
My current build is a 200k D16y8 from a 98 civic paired with a JRSC im currently swapping into a 2005 mini cooper R50. I have precision 780cc injectors, hondata s300 v3, innovate ecb-1 4 in one, 1320 uel headers and ill be running e85.
Last week I bought another engine for $850 its also a d16y8 long block with a Syncrotec tranny (carbon fiber syncros), axles, king bearings, all genuine Honda seals other than the oil pan which is Mahle and the above header. The head has a 3 angle valve job, port matched, springs and retainers. previous owner said the block and the head were also decked and machined and that it has Arp head steads. (to be verified once I crack the block open for machine work).
Im not sure if I am going to do a no notch 75.5mm vitara build or a 75mm build. I am leaning torwards the 75.5 mm build so i can ensure the bore is true.
Also not sure if im going to just get the notch type rods or the no notch.
I plan to do what a member here did and also be adding a turbo to this set up aswell. Then finally I plan to drop the JRSC and just go straight turbo.
Im the type who likes to tinker so I dont care to just go turbo. Trust me I have crept these forums for many many years and I know what the consensus is on boost. lol S300v3 p72 from gsr $300 donor car
I have a s300 so I will be using an android head unit. May figure something else out but I don't look at my speedo anyways when I drive most of the time. I'm pulling the entire harness incase I need to rewire the whole mini but the way mini cooper's are wired they have a few modules that control lights, security and other functions. The way it seemed to work was it would cut spark if the ecu and stuff sensed a rolling code problem. I'm using a Honda ecu so that won't be an issue anymore just tons of dash lights. I'm hoping that I can give the clusters and stuff power and send the signals to the tach and speedo and they will work if not ill just use the head unit. As for a/c the Hondas actually works so Im going to use the honda compressor with the mini's lines. The Mini has an electric power steering pump so I will be utilizing that. I'm not sure how a minis abs works but the axles don't have the marks like a Honda has so I'll have to figure that out.
Engine harness. Currently pulling the rest of the acc. Harnesses in case i need them to somehow make everything work. Not actually too bad of an interior for a $300 civic.
Last edited by MiniHondaS; Dec 9, 2021 at 04:18 PM.
Reason: Axles not crankshaft
Mostly finished pulling the chassis harness incase I need it. I will be scraping the car once I sell a few parts. Once that was finished I needed to move the cars around to get the project in the garage.
There is alot going on with a mini vs a honda. Mini cooper's are drive by wire and this one is a auto so there is that aswell. I took the clutch pedal assy. from the honda and will likely take the gas aswell.
mini engines are oriented like k series motors so there is that to deal with aswell. Not to mention the d16 has exhaust that comes from the front while a mini has it coming from the rear. Unlike on a honda where it is knotched for the exauhst the mini has an electric hydraulic powersteering pump there. Might run a straight pipe out the passenger quarter panel. I'll keep yall posted. Dash,headights and everything working without main Ecu. Mini cooper passenger shaft 26 spline Honda civic 98 driver shaft 26 spline Honda chassis harness right side (excluding doors and rear lights) engine harnes left side The future mini honda s The engine bay of the mini to show the amount of room im working with Wisconsin winters suck. Me moving rollers around in the slush solo.
Mini Honda S
