wsup guys, my problem i bring to u is that today my CEL came on while driving normal. I went home and jump the ecu code and it reads a code #5. I then came on h-t and looked on the FAQ on ecu codes and its says that its a MAP sensor issue. I am currently running a d16y7 w/ a mini-me swap. OBD2 v.2==>OBD1 P28 ecu along w/ a GReddy turbo kit tuned w/ hondata S100 boosting at 8psi. From my understandings is that my tuner said the factory MAP can read up to 10psi b4 going to a GM 3-bar map. I called him n he said its not a big deal n that my map probably went bad on me n recommends buying a new honda map sensor. Do u guys think that this will fix the prob. or will it happen again? all the help is greatly appreciated. thanks

 

Your MAP could have gone bad...no doubt

Stepping up to a larger MAP sensor will be good if you plan on running more than 10psi, if not though, just stick to a stock MAP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your MAP could have gone bad...no doubt

Stepping up to a larger MAP sensor will be good if you plan on running more than 10psi, if not though, just stick to a stock MAP </TD></TR></TABLE>
u really think so?? what do u think caused this from happening? i've only been driving w/ it for 2 weeks since the dyno-tune. and as for the 10psi or more i thought about it, im just gonna stick w/ my 8psi b/c im happy of where it's sitting. It's a fun daily driver w/ 140whp on stock internals w/ 32mpg on city thanks for the help.

 

???

 

Sometimes you get boost spikes and will trip the map, just clear code and drive for a while and see if its comes back, no hard boosting, also check map with multimeter before spending $ for nothing........

 

maybe some datalogging would help find if its a boost spike etc. do u have a boost cut set up?
-Toby

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PK SPEED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sometimes you get boost spikes and will trip the map, just clear code and drive for a while and see if its comes back, no hard boosting, also check map with multimeter before spending $ for nothing........</TD></TR></TABLE>

when i was driving that day i was driving the car normal not even boosting was baby'n the car for a week now since my minor oil leak. so i don't understand how this happened, maybe my map did just happen to crap on me that day. ANyway, i did clear the code at my house and started the car n let it idle, n 3 sec. later it popped back on . so i don't know whats the deal.

"maybe some datalogging would help find if its a boost spike etc. do u have a boost cut set up"?
-Toby

n no i don't have boost spike, and no i have no bost cut set up that im aware of.

 

maybe find a friend and swap em, should be able to tell pretty quickly
-Toby

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PK SPEED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sometimes you get boost spikes and will trip the map, just clear code and drive for a while and see if its comes back, no hard boosting, also check map with multimeter before spending $ for nothing........</TD></TR></TABLE>

What would testing it with a multimeter do? Just curious since mine is shot i believe

 

Well, with key ON and engine OFF, the map should read about 2.75v

if its any different than that, something is wrong. Could be the diaphragm blew out...happens sometimes. Not frequently, but with boost, something always happens right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, with key ON and engine OFF, the map should read about 2.75v

if its any different than that, something is wrong. Could be the diaphragm blew out...happens sometimes. Not frequently, but with boost, something always happens right </TD></TR></TABLE>
so let's say the diaphram blew out, will replacing the MAP sensor do the trick or is it more complex than it seems?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9 ferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so let's say the diaphram blew out, will replacing the MAP sensor do the trick or is it more complex than it seems?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Replacing the map is as easy as it gets. Undo the vacuum hose, disconnect the connector. Take off the old MAP, put on the new, reconnect the plugs and vacuum hose and you are done.

Might as well test the voltage of the MAP before you yank it off though.