Alright, I have a greddy td05H-18g snail on my ITR swapped EK. I have reason to believe the wastegate actuator is screwy and its letting boost spike way too high. WHich leads me to believe this is how I blew my headgasket the other day.I know this is alongshot from all teh research, but is there any way to lower the boost on it, I've played withthe length of the actuators arm, no luck. ANy way I could hook up a nice MBC and turn it as low as it goes and go fromt here? I know thats probably not the case, but hey if the actuator is being silly then maybe silly things will work. Also, anyone sell an aftermarket equivalent to the actuator for this turbo, possibly one that I could pick how much boost it allows before I buy it. I've looked into the HKS ones, but idk which to snag. Anyone able to share some help, I'd appreciate it, thanks!

 

bump

 

I know my typing skills are horrid, but BUMP!

 

you can't lower boost with an MBC, you can only raise it.

I don't know much about internally gated turbos - free bump for you.

 

2 options get a new waste gate or lengthen the actuator rod on the waste gate

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2218783/3

 

bigger turbo with external gate

 

What boost are you running, and what boost should it be running??

Make sure that when you attach the actuator rod, it is pulling the flapper tight against the housing. Also, where is your vacuum source from. From the "Maximum Boost" book, i do believe they recommend that your take your source from the turbo, not the intake manifold. For a faster response that is anyways. I never had an issue with spikes with the actuator, but when i had my lines backwards with my MBC that was an issue 17 psi, but that was only 2 psi more then i run normally. One last thing is your vacuum source t'd?

 

I'm running stock 8lbs on the greddy td05h-18g snail's actuator on an ITR motor, as you can see whay I wanna; lower the boost. High compression + high boost spikes = no good, haha

 

if you loosen it, but you don't really have to pull it to put it back on the flapper, will that just let it boost retardedly?

 

ttt real quick

 

ttt

 

ah caman, bump!

 

if you loosen it, but you don't really have to pull it to put it back on the flapper, will that just let it boost retardedly?

 

can anyone clear this up for me please?

 

I know you can

 

can someone just please answer me, lol

 

ttt

 

come on, someone end me bumping this dumb topic, haha

 

The only way to lower the boost would be to put less tension on the swing arm so it doesnt need as much pressure to open it... with an itr motor why would you risk running a internal anyways? just get a external and the right spring and your good to go.. no worries

 

thats int he future, but can anyone answer my last question? This would probs solve my problem, thanks!

 

I have the same situation like yours...99 ITR in Eg deL sol..turbonetic 60 AR. ballbearing...the wastegate is playin around stupid ...my shops recommend me buy a electronic boost controller, another wastegate( HK/greddy or tials, a new relay cockpit for the fuelpump system. and a good *** Tune...and den u can go fast and hard..not over 8k though...

 

an EBC won't lower the boost, and its an internal WG, tune by AMS tuning out here. ANyone else able to answer my question...

 

If your wastegate isn't tight, then its not gonna boost as fast. However, chances are if you are spiking, it won't fix that issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coneheadsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your wastegate isn't tight, then its not gonna boost as fast. However, chances are if you are spiking, it won't fix that issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed IMO the type r motor is one of the worst motors to boost... its way to expensive if it goes boom, and high compression will do that