alright guys i have a couple questions and have done research and havent had much luck... i have a eg hatch si and looking to do a turbo swap... as far as price goes i will be saving up and want to make it a year long project so im not quite sure... im going to guess 5000-7000...

So my questions are as far as a swap if im looking to turbo will a gsr have that much more potantial over a lsv... the only reason i ask because i was dead set on buying a gsr next month but one of my friends has a lsv bored and sleeved and reaching 500+.... so as far as price is it going to be noticable? Im looking for more acceleration then top speed and looking upward of 400...

so from what im aware of to reach 400+ i would need to sleeve block, changed pistons to type r or skunk, rods as well... as far as head p&p 5 angle valve job with springs and retainers, 255 lph fuel pump, 750cc or 1000cc injectors, exhaust... turbo wise prolly the gt35r i think unless theres something better...

im just looking for honest feed back like what worked for you and what didnt work, what you needed to change.. tax time is here and i want to start to buy thing and get to my goals... as far as money wise im saving up pretty quickly as im in the bail bondsman business and of course ppl do dumb things so it keeps me busy...

in the long run i want a gutted hatch that is fairly quick on the track when i take it... but something i can drive and be proud of... i guess i want to buy something right the first time and not look at it 3 months later and say damn i shouldnt have bought this cam i should of bought this one...

What are the specs of your setup and how do you like it?

 

No need for a 35R for a power goal of 400. Its nowhere near its efficiency. You are better off with GT3076R for that. If you do not feel the need to get a ball bearing turbo like the ones listed above due to price, then I would suggest a t3/t4 60 trim to attain those goals. They are capable of 450hp. If you want something else that will allow for more power in the future, go with a t3/t61, also known at the Journal bearing equivalent of a 35R.

ITR pistons will yield a higher compression when stuffed inside of a GSR block. When going turbo, its best to keep it at a lower compression for a safety net against detonation as well as being able to use pump gas.

No need for headwork when only wanting 400whp. A stock GSR head will do just fine. The only upgrade I would do in the head is maybe the valves.

It is a myth that you need a sleeved GSR block in order to hit 400whp. Its been done on a stock block before plenty of times. Just make sure the tuning is perfect, so dont skimp out on that.

To reach your goals easier, I would suggest either a Ramhorm or Topmount manifold. They are much more efficient than your average log.

750's are plenty enough for 400whp. ID has great injectors that are worth looking into.

 

thanks jsmtyper,

so you think i should do the gsr and thats not a bad start... i think i might do just that and see how i like it and then i could always sell the turbo and go bigger and then build the block... so as far as head work its not as impotant?

 

JdmTypeRdc2 has the right idea, though I would definitely look at some additional ideas, as the ones I've commented from JdmTypeRdc2's description. Not that he's wrong, and there's no disrespect intended in the slightest but there are a few myths in the logic. I've noted them below.

This is true, except for the T3/T04E 60 trim. The 450whp is HIGHLY pushed over 19-20psi in order to do that power level, and would easily take race gas in order to obtain that power goal. You never want to use a turbocharger outside of its range (as he stated) in order to reach that level.

Again, true, but you can also look at the modified 60-1 turbochargers as well as some of the billet selections that are out there. The difference is determining what it is you really plan to do with the car. Street/Drag strip..Drag strip only, or even road course (Circuit driving) in which 450whp isn't needed anyway.

Close, but it depends upon what turbo you're choosing and the efficiency range that it is in. If you're going to be taking the GS-R apart, don't substitute it with more OEM parts, since they don't hold more than 350whp anyway, regardless of compression ratio.

As for the compression ratio itself, there's nothing wrong with staying in the 10.0:1 -11.0:1 range. Even if it is 9.0:1, you still need to make sure that the tuning that you're doing is on par and performed by a professional. that is even more important than what compression ratio you are.

Valvetrain (meaning springs and retainers). The valves themselves are more than fine for what you're trying to do here. Otherwise, keep the head stock.

Perfect... Right on the money.. BIG myth.. 92hatcheg6, don't believe all the hype out there about sleeves, or even block guards to get this done

To reach your goals easier, I would suggest either a Ramhorm or Topmount manifold. They are much more efficient than your average log.

True, but there's nothing wrong with the standard Precision and Delphi injectors to do the job too if budget doesn't allow.

 

Ramhorn or Topmount, like Shodan said, is a must. Much more efficient flow, less turbulence, and therefore provide more power at any given boost level than log manifolds.

 

Let me clarify. Ramhorn = 650+, Topmount 700whp+ (due to spacing conditions). Otherwise , for 450whp, not necessary. I just re-read my post, and I was not precise in my answer.

 

i deff think i will do a ram or top... so if i decided to build the block and go bigger then i dont have to buy a nre mani.... so i figure if i do valvetrain, and im not sure if im going to replace pistons/rods yet because if i do i might as well just spend the money to sleeve it so i dont have to do it over... because i can see my self wanting to go bigger after im done with my build... sorry its been a while had a family situation and had to travel...