It seems that I probably am running short of pump, so I am planning to try running a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (BAP) as the next step. From the data and testimonials out there, it seems like a quality product that is capable of significantly increasing pump output at high-ish pressures.

So, I have a couple of questions for those of you who use them?

1) I have a return style system with a boost referenced regulator. Just confirming first that the BAPs work fine with return style systems?

2) I run a standalone ECU, so I'm thinking that there is no reason for me to mess with the variable "boost" provided by the single pump, 17.5V, BAP if I could get a good deal on the dual pump, 20V "Race" BAP. True?

In other words, with a standalone I should be able to simply adjust the fuelling in the cells in the transition areas to compensate for the additional fuel, and take full advantage of the 20V pump help, no? Assuming this is true, it would also be nice to have the second output for later if I decide to add a second, inline pump.

3) I'm not really seeing what factors make it appropriate to choose the 40 Amp BAP over the 20 Amp one. Any insights?

4) Since I think there's a good chance of me trying one of these out, does that mean that there is no need for me to run a 10AWG wire from the alternator to a relay at the fuel pump? Will the BAP wiring ensure that full current is provided to the pump???

Thanks in advance for any of your experience based suggestions!!!

 

First most important question, is what pump do you currently have? That will determine if you need a 20A or 40A model.

It will work with return style fuel systems... You will barely notice any big changes in flow from the fuel pump at higher voltages during idle, low RPM or cruising. You will easily be able to blend in the fuel map and never notice a transition.

The BAP has a pressure switch input.. It's basically a grounded input to switch to high voltage mode. You can use your standalone spare outputs to drive that and only switch to high voltage based on engine RPM, TPS, boost, etc..

If the BAP is properly installed, then yes, you won't need to wire a direct feed from the alternator. The BAP is designed to hold voltage consistently and rarely drops even if input voltage has dropped. You can have an input of 12v at the BAP and it can still output a clean voltage to the pump. You will also notice that your pump will no longer change "tone" or "note" when the input voltage naturally fluctuates from turning on electrical devices (headlights, signals, etc..).

 

Excellent, thanks!

I have a Walbro 255 High Pressure in-tank pump.