Hey HT i have a stock 1998 OBD2 B18B1 in a crx. I plan on (right now) going LST, for my DD I just want some quick power, im lookin in the 200-250hp range. Pls keep in mind though im hurting for money right now and i don't want to spend all my money on forged internals(as of now). Basically I just want a stock turboed LS, fun to DD and cruise around town.(all i have on there right now is a S2 IM and a CAI that leads out the engine bay)

Things im going to get:
Precision 60-1 with FMI, piping, wastegate, etc.
p30 Pistons on shotpeened LS rods
ARP rod bolts & head studs
p28 ECU with OBD0-OBD1 conversion with a jumper harness
guy before me had the wrong dizzy so a B18b1 dizzy
Turbo Manifold
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
larger injectors and prob a AEM fuel rail
All the NECESSARY guages

Thx for any input and advice!

 

"hurting for money" and "want to turbo my N/A car" do not go together.

 

Thank you for your advice, but i have the turbo, piping, FMI, wastegate,BOV already so i only need the other stuff

 

https://honda-tech.com/appearance-bu...build-3208172/

Take a look at my build thread. I did a basically stock turbo ls at minimal cost. Good luck.

 

Nice thread boosted! damn 11.79 is quick. I just want OEM pistons because those have an anti-friction coating on them, and Honda makes reliable stuff, so im just gonna stay OEM. Thx for all the advice!

 

What about the ring lands? How do those hold up?

 

Damn never knew you had a build brb looks good at first glance tho

 

Nippon piston are basically the same as oem but they have much thicker and stronger ring lands. I had to overbore my block anyways so instead of buying new oem pistons I just bought the Nippon Pistons. I think they only cost $190 shipped with rings.

 

200-250 hp you do not need to do Pistons also do not need fuel rail

 

Or a giant 60-1 turbo. For a stock LS, you'll spool it.... next week, for that power level. A grandfather in a wheel chair will out-accelerate you in regular traffic with that big thing.

You have it already...Sell it, and use the money to get something smaller.. WAY Smaller.. like T3 Super 60, size..


You don't need pistons, rod bolts or head studs for this power goal or engine. Just make sure the engine is healthy with compression and leak down tests, fuel filter and belt replacement.. good overall health.

A slight upgrade in clutch to handle the additional torque, and you'll be fine

 

The turbo is a little bitty one so the t3, prob the one you were talking about Shodan, but yeah thx for all the advice guys! This is good info yall are giving me!BTW im a highschool student and just getting in the game

 

Sry also forgot to mention i have a stage 2 clutch in it right now, dont know what it is right now cause the guy before me put it in

 

if its a 60-1 its not a little bitty one.

 

Correction, its a t3t4 hybrid, sorry for the confusion lol

 

"Stage 2" could be anything.. a company name would help. If toy don't know, only time will tell when you put this all together

 

Thx, Shodan your giving me good constructive criticism, but while im at it ill change the clutch to maybe, an exedy? Or a xtd?

 

Exedy part#8950B..

Don't bother with the XTD. Period

 

Good build, I really was motivated by this one but not saying I'm hurting bad for money, just loved the tricks used to yield a decent build....similar cost-effective techniques used llike in DA-NINE's build IMO....

 

^^^ thanks dude!

 

Question though...(sorry OP, not to thread jack) but after you tuned your LST you relocated the IAT to the charge pipe which I've been considering or curious about, but did you have to change your threshold values for when the timing is pulled or what changes if any applied with that mod?

 

The only changes I made to the iat compensations was fuel related. I was logging much cooler iat after I relocated it, so I just made slight adjustments to bring my afr back to where I wanted it. I have not changed the high load ignition correction from the original settings. Since relocating the iat sensor I have yet to log higher the about 90* iat, and it's typically about the same as the temp outside. I may have to change those settings in the heat of the summer though.

 

Yeah I've always felt that heat soak from the manifold tends to rob power sooner than its warranted and that 100+ deg IAT's seen in the Intake when the temps outside temps are cold vs. 100+ deg IAT's seen in the Intake when the temps outside are hot are altogether different so the IAT sensor should be placed where its not given false influence but with that said, once I do this I know I'm going to have to monitor this and watch for any differences in hopes it helps to prevent premature power loss without increasing the chances for Det......

 

Thanks for all the replies!! BTW everyone changes the oil pump and water pump to an ITR or GSR, but what about a stock b20? Wouldnt it move more volume?

 

Same as the the LS, GSR, ITR, same physical block dimensions....only thing different about the B20 is the bore siz which has no bearing on the oiling capacity.....also, a b series oil pump is the same on all VTEC or NON....if you dont believe me look up the P/N....its the same on an LS and is the B18CR......Ebay started this belief just to hype kids into buying Type "R" oil pumps

Honda P/N:15100-P72-A01

 

Yeah isnt the difference just a washer?