Just picked up a used JRSC for a B16/ITR head. Planning on using it for my LS-Vtec build. Only problems are that the ENTIRE unit is painted (rather terribly) an ugly black, and the tensioner pulley was melted because it was rested on a heater or something like that. So, I have several questions:

1. Id rather not sandblast the unit, as I don't want any trace particles and I don't have easy access to a blaster, so what can I use to safely strip the paint? And im assuming id need high-temp paint to repaint it?

2. Where can I get another tensioner pulley, or what can I use as a replacement?

3. Does anybody know where I can download the manual? if somebody has it and would be awesome enough to scan it and email it to me thatd be fantastic.

4. What transmission would be ideal for a road race/autocross setup? I know a lot of F/I cars use an LS transmission, but would that be helpful here or would it just be slower than say a B16 transmission?

5. Any general suggestions/tips/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

1. Aircraft stripper
2. Parts store should be able to find something that will work. The exact overall diameter is not crucial. Something within 1/2" overall diameter should work.
3. IDK sorry.
4. B16 tranny would be better for RR/AutoX, Guys use LS trannys when drag racing so they don't have to shift into 5th gear at the end of the track.
5. Make sure and get good belts, the goodyear gatorbacks seemed to work the best for me.

 

#3

 

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help, as I honestly have never used anything like this before, and have very little idea what im doing
keep it coming, ive read that they have problems with the air temps getting really high, is there any way to counter-act this without spending a huge amount of money getting LHT to modify my unit? And (as of right now its stock) if I decide to build in the future, what comp ratio should I go with? are there any aftermarket cams that do better than the GSR/ITR cams?

 

Check out this thread. Yes i know it says sohc but the same logic apply's and there is a lot of useful information in there. There might also be one for dohc although I couldn't find it using the search at this time.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...t=supercharger

 

you can get the plastic pulleys here ..its about the only place
just search for pulley

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...rchargers.html

the correct thread for DOHC JRSC is this
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2A-official-jrsc-thread%2A%2A%2A-1214810/

 

reagarding heat .. water meth ..but its limited to what it can do

compression for a build 10.5 -11 super chargers like high compression

GSR/ITR nobody has found a better solution / combo
but cam gears will help dial in less duration ..best done on the dyno

further reading
http://ftlracing.com/

 

That kinda blows, Ive read that Crower Turbo Stage2's *LOOK* like they might provide some gains, but nobody has tried it. The first link you gave actually had intercoolers for the M45 supercharger kits, granted for a Miata, but could they be modified for a CR-X? And many many many thanks for showing where I can get actual idler pulleys!!!!!

Okay, a few more questions:

1. Is the blower an off the shelf part that can be replaced? I want to say ive heard of people swapping them out (w/an adapter plate) for an Eaton M62 Blower.

2. Should I get any special type of oil/lubricant? I plan on tearing it down and giving it a full cleaning before I install it.

3. I briefly skimmed over the PDF'd instructions (THANKS!!!) and I didn't catch anything, but is there an external oil feed required? And if not, how is it lubricated? I cant imagine something spinning that fast wouldn't need some form of oil/lube....

That's all I can think of right now. Sorry if these are stupid questions, but I don't want to install something that im still kinda clueless about
Thanks for all the help guys!

 

crower & skunk turbo cams have been tried and failed before with lost power

1. it is but ! our chargers run anti clockwise you would need to convert it...
yes you could make a plate to addapt the m62 to the m45 manifold BUT
you would then need a b series s-tube. anti clockwise m62. you could reuse the snout from the m45 on the m62 as there the same...and adjust the hole in the manifold for the m62 outlet

2. if you going to do that get the GM charger Oil 110ml and a set of rear bearings from ebay

3. the charger uses its own special oil in the snout "dont use ENGINE oil youll kill it"
oil is speced as good for 100,000M's by Eaton
the charger is also a sealed oil system

theres never a stupid question only stupid people who dont ask until after they stufff things up keep asking ...keep learning

 

Alright, so I tore it all down and it was...well...rather disheartening
The whole inside of the blower casing was very oily, the screws had scoring on the tips of the blades, the Teflon coating looked to be in rough shape. The bearings on the throttle-body side of the screws were toast. I couldn't get the snout apart as I was unable to get the pulley bolt off. The actual casing itself had scoring on the inside...just terrible. Thankfully I didn't pay too much for it. After a bit of research, I found that the Mini Cooper uses an M45 blower as well, which I can get (remanufactured) for around $700USD. I can get an M62 in decent condition for dirt cheap though. So im thinking ill go with the M62. @MRGRIM could you explain the s tube and anti-clockwise conversion to me? or direct me to a thread/link where the info is? I looked at some pictures of the M62 outlet and it looks wayyy different than the M45. The M62 also appears to be a better option as far as future maintenance. A couple quick searches on ebay yielded very few results for M45 rebuild kits.

 

ORRRRLLLLYYYY?

If its a street car, stay with the B16 trans, if its a Drag car, DONT use an LS trans.

 

post pics of the rotors and case it might be just be normal wear
to someone who hasnt seen what they normaly look like with a bit of wear it can look trashed

 

AGREE

just change 5th to LS 5th for the HWY
lower revs, better cruise

 

Well that gives me a little bit of hope, ill take some pics when I get home and upload them and see what you guys think.

 

listen to MRGRIM, he's a walking, talking JRSC reference lol

 

If you're looking for reliabilty and power in cams, OEM ITR bump sticks are your best bet.

 

Okay well my internet is being a major ****head and wont let me upload the photos. In the mean-time, does anyone know if I can get replacement parts for the unit? The tensioner pulley (props to MRGRIM) ive found, but the sliding bolt/nut assembly that the tensioner pulley spins on is toast. Some common fool most likely used an impact wrench on it and toasted the threads. So im kind of at a loss as to what to do with that.

And right now ive got B18C1 cams in there.

 

replacement parts do not exist, unless It's something like pulleys and such

 

damn...any suggestions as to what to do?

 

you got PM re pics

and re the adjuster you will have to fab one up

 

He might be a bit pricey on parts but give Jim a call at Motorvations Motorsports. 205-661-3600 I hear he's got a lot of parts stockpiled.

 

wear on the rotor edges is normal, even more so when you consider the age of the kit. also, whoever used it last could of had a shifty air filter or no filter at all... this would cause rotor edge and casing damage due to the clearance between rotor and case

the Teflon coating chips off over time, it is considered normal. of enough material has chipped off most people remove the coating entirely when servicing/rebuilding the charger. IIRC the coating didn't do much in the first place.

as far as the mini cooper supercharger, it is setup to spin clockwise, our motor spin counter clockwise. also, the inlet/outlet is an entirely different shape (there are many variants of each M series supercharger) so you'd need an entirely new intake setup, replacing the s tube and such that the JRSC charger uses. I'll dig up pics of the Mini charger so you can see what I'm talking about


also you have to look at the snout length. the JRSC kit has a short snout length in order for it fit the JRSC intake plenum and place the charger pulley inline with the accessory drive belt. now you should be able to swap the JRSC snout onto another charger and that should allow it to fit in terms of where the belt is

if you used another charger (not the one in the kit) you would have to convert it from CW operation to CCW. you do this by taking the snout off and flipping the drive gears then bolting the snout on with the pulley on the opposite side from where it was originally. It's not hard but it isn't easy, also its very time consuming

MR GRIM, please go through ky post and make sure I'm remembering things correctly lol


and as far as replacement parts, I have access to a full capability machine shop and have friends with CNC plasma cutter decks and CNC water jet decks, so I could produce every part (brackets, etc) to replace those pieces people don't have (maybe even make them better... stronger, lighter)

but I would need a complete JRSC kit in order to digitize every part in order to replicate it. I would also need to know what parts change between the different b series kits...

d series kits would be something else entirely but I don't see d series replacement parts being profitable as the d series kits are even harder to find than the b kits.

so not a lot of people run them.. they go turbo or take an m62 or m90 Ford unit, or the Mercedes-Benz 230 kompressor models supercharger, swap the drive gears, flip the snout, and mount it where the ac compressor mounted. this gives them easy belt routing with lots of belt wrap.

this also allows them to run a traditional front mount intercooler as easy as if it were a turbo setup

there are plenty of YouTube videos showing these setups on b and d motors, the work quite well

 

I have replyed to your emailed pics
The charger is serviceable to use
just needs a rebuild with new bearings

 

Wantboost
wear on the rotor edges is normal, even more so when you consider the age of the kit. also, whoever used it last could of had a shifty air filter or no filter at all... this would cause rotor edge and casing damage due to the clearance between rotor and case

the Teflon coating chips off over time, it is considered normal. of enough material has chipped off most people remove the coating entirely when servicing/rebuilding the charger. IIRC the coating didn't do much in the first place.
Teflon was mainly to help break in and give a better seal but the tech back in the day was not ideal and coatings failed on a regular basis from not sticking to well to alloy or tolerating the heat

as far as the mini cooper supercharger, it is setup to spin clockwise, our motor spin counter clockwise. also, the inlet/outlet is an entirely different shape (there are many variants of each M series supercharger) so you'd need an entirely new intake setup, replacing the s tube and such that the JRSC charger uses. I'll dig up pics of the Mini charger so you can see what I'm talking about
The M62 comes in many varients .. M62 as its reffered to is a reffrence to the rotors size in cubic inches and not the housing or the style as to the casting the rotors are in

also you have to look at the snout length. the JRSC kit has a short snout length in order for it fit the JRSC intake plenum and place the charger pulley inline with the accessory drive belt. now you should be able to swap the JRSC snout onto another charger and that should allow it to fit in terms of where the belt is

if you used another charger (not the one in the kit) you would have to convert it from CW operation to CCW. you do this by taking the snout off and flipping the drive gears then bolting the snout on with the pulley on the opposite side from where it was originally. It's not hard but it isn't easy, also its very time consuming

MR GRIM, please go through ky post and make sure I'm remembering things correctly lol
The change from CW to CCW can be done but is tricky to align the rotors as they need a very fine clearance and timing 5thou or less

and as far as replacement parts, I have access to a full capability machine shop and have friends with CNC plasma cutter decks and CNC water jet decks, so I could produce every part (brackets, etc) to replace those pieces people don't have (maybe even make them better... stronger, lighter)

but I would need a complete JRSC kit in order to digitize every part in order to replicate it. I would also need to know what parts change between the different b series kits...

d series kits would be something else entirely but I don't see d series replacement parts being profitable as the d series kits are even harder to find than the b kits.

so not a lot of people run them.. they go turbo or take an m62 or m90 Ford unit, or the Mercedes-Benz 230 kompressor models supercharger, swap the drive gears, flip the snout, and mount it where the ac compressor mounted. this gives them easy belt routing with lots of belt wrap.

this also allows them to run a traditional front mount intercooler as easy as if it were a turbo setup

there are plenty of YouTube videos showing these setups on b and d motors, the work quite well
most of these setups work well but dont perform to there best and everything has to be made custom also at the loss of Aircon
and a whole lot of room taken up from pipeing and a big heat issue from the headers.. I have yet to see one of these setups do any high boost above 6-7lb
apart from McDaniels but thats a diffrent story and still not completed to this day

 

yea I know the numbers only apply to the size of the unit, not its casing configuration. which is why I was telling the OP that just because its an M62 doesn't mean it shares the same case casting features as the JRSC unit.

as far as the setup I mentioned, I see a lot of the d series guys doing that setup with 62s or 90s... some even use the small Mercedes-Benz 230 supercharger or the toyota previa supercharger. I know that most who go this route are doing a budget setup and only want a small power increase, hence the low boost. the main advantage to this setup is intercooling is no harder than that of a turbo kit, which would help tons when people start running high boost

I'd love to see this setup on a high compression ls/vtec with an M90 or M112 unit. it would make for tons of fun on the street.

as far as air conditioning, most Honda owners I know remove it anyways lol. if you get hot just roll down the windows although I do replace the ac heat exchanger with the heat only duct. gotta have heat