QwkD16

There was a topic a while back about a guy that ran a supercharger and a turbo at the same time on a d-series, I think. I might have the opportunity to do this and I just wanted a little information on how this would work. I have a d16y8 turbo, that used to be supercharged, and I miss the supercharged feeling but love the turbo top end. ANY help from someone would be awesome


Modified by QwkD16 at 1:09 PM 10/15/2006

sk8phaze

Meguires Car products made in Integra Type R that like about 3 or 4 years ago, it was a B18c5 with aftermarket 11.0:1 compression pistons, made good power.

QwkD16

I was hoping maybe someone could give me some websites or some kind of tech info on how to make this work. I think you have to run some kind of air bypass when the turbo spools up. Not quite sure so any help would be nice.

Schister66

best way to do it....swap a K and boost it. You'll be better off in the long run that way. Turbo and SC would be a headache unless your engine is built and you know what you're doing....swap a GSR engine and boost it...they have good potential

84mm GSR
GT3076R
Topmount, 3" dp and exhaust

----then fill in the rest-----

that's a good streetable setup that will yield great streetable power

drintegra

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">best way to do it....swap a K and boost it. You'll be better off in the long run that way. Turbo and SC would be a headache unless your engine is built and you know what you're doing....swap a GSR engine and boost it...they have good potential

84mm GSR
GT3076R
Topmount, 3" dp and exhaust

----then fill in the rest-----

that's a good streetable setup that will yield great streetable power</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2,
the maguires car made good powr on a dyno and they detuned it for the street. SC and Boost create alot of heat and with a stock engine it will die. I am not discourageing your efforts just letting you know. I would like to see it, just not on my car. SC will help the turbo spool up quick then it will be useless and drain power from the turbo itself. Save the money and get a K24 with a K20 head and as small turbo you will make more power and more torque all day.
Good luck.

QwkD16

The car is fully built.
Eagle rods, Srp pistons, ARP studs, everything was balanced, micropolished crank, Hondata, 550cc injectors, etc... The car right now is at 245whp and 202ftq. I just wanted better low end torque without nitrous.

sc4dr

Just go turbo. Theres a guy named rmcdaniels on here that has done it, and it made 350whp with good low end on a B16. Its a lot of work and money to do it right, and in my opinion a properly sized turbo is far superior. PM rmcdaniels, or go to the "what jrsc setup are you running" thread.

gtz

no one read that your car is built. someone point this man in the right direction!

whats the point in swapping in a k series to get 400hp when he can prolly get that same hp from his fully built turbo D? 400hp=400hp, tranny and gears would obviously feel different.

****, i would go K series if it wasnt such a pain in the ***. i think we all would. if you got the cash and time then go for it but whp is whp no matter what motor makes it.

*zips up flame suit for Jdm/Kseries ******

SiR99

Turbo &gt; Supercharger, ... its just going to be a headace,... more parts for something to go wrong. Just stick with a turbo and have fun, you wont be disappointed.

rmcdaniels

Here's the thread I did about the one I built for a B-series:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1293497&page=1

I put it on Mark Osgood's hatch that he's got built for SM autox, but unfortunately that motor was on its last legs and ate its bearings at VIR early this year. We actually just got it running again on a new sleeved/built LS/VTEC motor, but he's got a pretty crappy turbo setup, Big 16G knockoff turbo and a funky little homemade manifold:



I think it's limiting his potential, this setup likes to have a big turbo to breathe right. It made 300 WHP on the dyno, but the turbo was glowing red and IAT's were a little higher than we'd like to see. It still kicks *** at autox and the car is very fast, but I'm looking for a deal on somehing bigger for it now.

Whan I had it on my EM1 it worked fine, made 350+ WHP and was reliable enough for a DD, which was good since I only had the one car and had to get to work every day. I ran about 5 PSI less than I could have on that B16 too, as I was in the process of building a Dart-block motor and wanted to keep the B16 in relatively new condition as I knew I would be selling it soon after I switched the dual-sequential setup to Mark's car.

If you want to drag race or have H-T dyno bragging rights, then don't do a dual setup, but for an amazing powerband for autox and DD, a dual-sequential setup rules.

sc4dr

There you go, the man has spoken

QwkD16

That exactlly what I want, something that is a fast, fun, street car. I wanted to do the supercharger, because I am have problems with raising boost on this turbo. It is a t3/t4 .50a/r-.48 exh. It will only reach 15 psi. I have tried everything. I even left the vacuum line completely off the wastegate. No boost leaks anywhere!!! Maybe someone can give me an idea why?

StylishDOHC

sounds like you need a stiffer spring in your wastegate (if it's external)

delspool

i have no idea why, but for dual charging

QwkD16

But, turbo should boost to capacity with the external wastegate unhooked from vacuum, right? It has no reference or source vacuum/boost.

sc4dr

If your spring is light, it will still build enough pressure to open your wastegate. Get a boost controller.

On a side note: unless you have rmcdaniels do the dual charger for you, I wouldnt recommend it. It requires metal fabrication to come up with a bypass valve system. This way the turbo is not boosting the supercharger, it goes around it.

QwkD16

I have a turbosmart MBC, but should the wastegate still open with the vacumm line pulled off of it.

sc4dr

sure, what size spring are you using

QwkD16

I have the 10.153 Yellow spring. I just realised why the wastegate would open even if its unhooked from vacuum. There is still boost building in the exh manifold side! You know, some times when you think about something to hard you look over the obvious. So do you think I could solve this problem by putting in the 14.5/1 bar spring?? My goal is about 300-350whp at about 20-23psi. Im at 250 @ 15psi right now.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

not true. the spring will keep the valve seated until pressure causes it to open, if there is no vacuum source the system will build boost until the turbo runs out of air, your motor blows up or the turbo grenades

thomas@LPS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QwkD16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That exactlly what I want, something that is a fast, fun, street car. I wanted to do the supercharger, because I am have problems with raising boost on this turbo. It is a t3/t4 .50a/r-.48 exh. It will only reach 15 psi. I have tried everything. I even left the vacuum line completely off the wastegate. No boost leaks anywhere!!! Maybe someone can give me an idea why?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive got the same turbo and will hit 14 psi at about 4300 rpm. ive got to think that something is preventing you from getting more boost possibly exhaust leaks?

QwkD16

No exhaust leaks or boost leaks. I have a tester and I have tested everything. I mean this thing comes to a dead stop right at 15psi, but it climbs fast, full boost by 4800-5000rpms.

QwkD16

So, the ONLY thing that causes the wastegate to open is from the source vacuum. Maybe this turbo is the wrong size, I have no idea what the trim it is and dont know how to find out. I just know that it has a .50ar compressor and .48ar exhaust.

THEDirtyDseriesWOOT

my t25 wouldnt go over 15 psi with the stock exhaust piping all i had was a buddy club muffler.. i got 2.75 inch piping all the way back and bam 26 psi over boost.. might wanna try the exhaust thing

QwkD16

I have 2.5 exhaust. Downpipe is 2.5, no cat, all the way to the back is 2.5.