I have 2 months fighting with a ECU error #9 in a P72 B18C1 with Hondata. I know that the error #9 is the No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP).

I make all the manual troubleshuting, cut the hondata jumper (return to OEM), n-check the ground wires, change the distributor with other car, change the ECU, etc, etc, etc and the code remain. I lost my time and mind with this problem...

The car have good iddle, start good, I dont have clue with this.

PLEASE HELP, ALL IDEAS ARE WELCOME


Thanks in advance,

Dariusz

 

All ideas are welcome...

 

Start buzzing out that sensor. Make sure it's getting voltage and stuff...? Does the Helms have a troubleshooting procedure?

 

Yes, the Helms have a troubleshooting procedure but all are in the correct parameters... and #9 continue. Other idea?

 

Is it the ECU itself?

 

I change it (I have 2 x P72) all2 make the same...

 

Try swapping a distributor if you have another available.

 

I do it, I use a Civic distributor and my one in the Civic. The Civic in my car send the #9, my in the Civic work fine

 

Then do what Mark recommended and start checking all the wiring for continuity. The ECU might not even be reading a signal from the sensor.

 

I check the wirings, and inclusive I connect the distributor sensor harnes direct (cables 1 by 1 outside the car) to the ECU, and problem remain...

 

Maybe somebody with an osciliscope can tell you whether you're getting a proper signal at teh ECU.

 

This sound interesant, can you go more deep with the idea?

 

An osciliscope is just a really big and expensive VAM (volt-ammeter) with a few extra good features....like being able to see the exact behavior of the electrical signal in real-time. You can tell what kind of wave (sine or square). You can see the current or voltage in the amplitude of the wave. I'm sure you can do a lot more with them, but that's what I know them to be useful for with the limited exposure I had to them in Physics class.

You take it to some automotive tech dood with an osciliscope (and certification or half a brain to know how to use and apply it to your predicament), and he can monitor the output of the sensor going to the ECU. The closer you are to the ECU the better, because that'll also do your continuity testing for you as well. If you're getting a proper signal, then I don't know what to say. It's just too hard for most of us to internet troubleshoot.

 

yea but what signal is he looking for??? how do you know what to look for??? and what exaclty is a code 9???

Landon

 

I trie this aproach... I check the sygnals using a voltmeter for continuity and resistance (this 2 are part of the troublesguting in the Acura manual) and all 2 are in the specifications range...

 

That's why I said he should take it to an automotive tech who has a better idea than I do, or he could compare it with a known good as the standard.

I can only guess that it'd be an analog (sine wave) signal. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be digital (square wave) since it works on magnetic inductance like a Hall effect sensor.

Code 9 is a "no signal" code for the CYP (cylinder position) sensor. It's essentially a cam angle sensor that works in conjunction with the crank angle sensor for sequential fuel and ignition timing events for each cylinder.

 

I'm still inclined to believe that it's a continuity break b/w the ECU and sensor. I could still be wrong, but if you've checked against proper known good distributors and ECU's, then it's gotta be the wiring.

 

I check the cables a lot of times and I make a test sending a new cables from the conector to the ECU direct (outside the car) and the effect is the same. The interesant think is that in the begining of the problem the check engine come on in the moment the car come to normal operating temperature before that it is off. Now it come 30 seconds after the car is on.

 

I'm all out of good ideas.

Get the biggest gage shotgun you have and go after them electrical gremlins with the medievalness.

 

This sound good for me...

 

I'm not sure if the CYP sensor wire is supposed to be a shielded wire but if it is, and u are using a regural wire it will trip the circuit and u will get a code. Heated oxygen sensors and knock sensors do the same, I fought with that problem with my knock sensor for a few months. Some times it would throw a code a minute after starting the car and sometimes it took 30 minutes, it all depended on the weather and the heat in the engine bay. Find out if it's supposed to be shielded and if the wire u are using is shielded too and write back.

 

I trie it, all ideas are welcome.