I'm very close to be CRAZY
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I'm very close to be CRAZY
I have 2 months fighting with a ECU error #9 in a P72 B18C1 with Hondata. I know that the error #9 is the No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP).
I make all the manual troubleshuting, cut the hondata jumper (return to OEM), n-check the ground wires, change the distributor with other car, change the ECU, etc, etc, etc and the code remain. I lost my time and mind with this problem...
The car have good iddle, start good, I dont have clue with this.
PLEASE HELP, ALL IDEAS ARE WELCOME
Thanks in advance,
Dariusz
I make all the manual troubleshuting, cut the hondata jumper (return to OEM), n-check the ground wires, change the distributor with other car, change the ECU, etc, etc, etc and the code remain. I lost my time and mind with this problem...
The car have good iddle, start good, I dont have clue with this.
PLEASE HELP, ALL IDEAS ARE WELCOME
Thanks in advance,
Dariusz
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (dariusz)
Start buzzing out that sensor. Make sure it's getting voltage and stuff...? Does the Helms have a troubleshooting procedure?
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (MarkC)
Yes, the Helms have a troubleshooting procedure but all are in the correct parameters... and #9 continue. Other idea?
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (IN VTEC)
I do it, I use a Civic distributor and my one in the Civic. The Civic in my car send the #9, my in the Civic work fine
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (dariusz)
Then do what Mark recommended and start checking all the wiring for continuity. The ECU might not even be reading a signal from the sensor.
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (IN VTEC)
I check the wirings, and inclusive I connect the distributor sensor harnes direct (cables 1 by 1 outside the car) to the ECU, and problem remain...
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (dariusz)
An osciliscope is just a really big and expensive VAM (volt-ammeter) with a few extra good features....like being able to see the exact behavior of the electrical signal in real-time. You can tell what kind of wave (sine or square). You can see the current or voltage in the amplitude of the wave. I'm sure you can do a lot more with them, but that's what I know them to be useful for with the limited exposure I had to them in Physics class.
You take it to some automotive tech dood with an osciliscope (and certification or half a brain to know how to use and apply it to your predicament), and he can monitor the output of the sensor going to the ECU. The closer you are to the ECU the better, because that'll also do your continuity testing for you as well. If you're getting a proper signal, then I don't know what to say. It's just too hard for most of us to internet troubleshoot.
You take it to some automotive tech dood with an osciliscope (and certification or half a brain to know how to use and apply it to your predicament), and he can monitor the output of the sensor going to the ECU. The closer you are to the ECU the better, because that'll also do your continuity testing for you as well. If you're getting a proper signal, then I don't know what to say. It's just too hard for most of us to internet troubleshoot.
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (IN VTEC)
I trie this aproach... I check the sygnals using a voltmeter for continuity and resistance (this 2 are part of the troublesguting in the Acura manual) and all 2 are in the specifications range...
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (boosted_dc2)
That's why I said he should take it to an automotive tech who has a better idea than I do, or he could compare it with a known good as the standard.
I can only guess that it'd be an analog (sine wave) signal. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be digital (square wave) since it works on magnetic inductance like a Hall effect sensor.
Code 9 is a "no signal" code for the CYP (cylinder position) sensor. It's essentially a cam angle sensor that works in conjunction with the crank angle sensor for sequential fuel and ignition timing events for each cylinder.
I can only guess that it'd be an analog (sine wave) signal. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be digital (square wave) since it works on magnetic inductance like a Hall effect sensor.
Code 9 is a "no signal" code for the CYP (cylinder position) sensor. It's essentially a cam angle sensor that works in conjunction with the crank angle sensor for sequential fuel and ignition timing events for each cylinder.
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (dariusz)
I'm still inclined to believe that it's a continuity break b/w the ECU and sensor. I could still be wrong, but if you've checked against proper known good distributors and ECU's, then it's gotta be the wiring.
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (IN VTEC)
I check the cables a lot of times and I make a test sending a new cables from the conector to the ECU direct (outside the car) and the effect is the same. The interesant think is that in the begining of the problem the check engine come on in the moment the car come to normal operating temperature before that it is off. Now it come 30 seconds after the car is on.
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Re: I'm very close to be CRAZY (dariusz)
I'm not sure if the CYP sensor wire is supposed to be a shielded wire but if it is, and u are using a regural wire it will trip the circuit and u will get a code. Heated oxygen sensors and knock sensors do the same, I fought with that problem with my knock sensor for a few months. Some times it would throw a code a minute after starting the car and sometimes it took 30 minutes, it all depended on the weather and the heat in the engine bay. Find out if it's supposed to be shielded and if the wire u are using is shielded too and write back.
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