EDIT:

Heres the map I came up with after some smoothing

Alright, I know expletive all aout ignition timing, no idea how much a regular car on a 3 bar and this much boost would be and I couldnt find any bins to ref it to

So I just smoothed them out

Im pretty sure this is conservative as expletive but could someone give me some pointers, maybe I could add some more timing in places or I have to much

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic...s=f10




Modified by W O T at 8:07 AM 8/13/2006

 

 

Ignition map looks a little wacky, I'd take it to get tuned.

The values your looking at in the map is the actual amount of ignition advance/retard the ECU is commanding for each load/rpm cell.

 

SO say the number in the cell is 12.5

My base a6 timing is 16* so is that 12.5 telling my ecu to retard timing by 3.5*?

 

I definetely need some help on exactly what numbers I should be shooting for while in boost

I dont get what the numbers are representing compared to my base timing of 16*

Like @ 5psi what number should I be at? 15psi?

Dont really get that, feels seems to be down pat steady

 

 

I dont have an answer for you but Id like to see some feedback on this as well since tuning ignition timing has always been something I never fully understood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SO say the number in the cell is 12.5

My base a6 timing is 16* so is that 12.5 telling my ecu to retard timing by 3.5*?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, the base timing is 16* of advance, so 12.5 is 12.5 degrees of advance. It's not retarded except compared to idle provided your car is actually idling at 16* (check this with a timing gun). The numbers you're seeing aren't what's actually being produced, the distributor has to be lined up to match the maps and then you can read the timing maps as if they were true timing advance. Until then they're just numbers, and even after, I just trust them as numbers, not as literal degrees advance, because, for example, you might go comparing them to someone else's setup when they might not have the distrib at the same position as you... maybe they've just never checked.

Reading them as literal timing, the numbers don't seem crazy to me except that spike in the 6300 rpm row, but I've never tuned an A6 so don't listen to me.

I don't know if you know about det cans but look into them.

 

it helped me a lot to copy past both maps into excel and graph them. that way you can get a 3-d look at whats going on and smooth everything out. id send you my template, but i have a 2.5bar map sensor and it wouldnt match up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, the base timing is 16* of advance, so 12.5 is 12.5 degrees of advance. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Does this mean that base timing is set at 16* advanced, and the ignition timing is advanced an ADDITIONAL 12.5*?

Or does it mean that base timing is at 16* advanced, and ignition is at 12.5* advanced (3.5* before base timing)

 

0 degrees is 0 degrees of advance, that means the ignition event happens when the piston is AT tdc. If you fire 12 degs before, that's 12 degs of advance. At idle, that's 16 degs before TDC.

'base' timing, I'm assuming that you mean idle timing, on that map is 16 degs, yes, depending on what vacuum the engine pulls - if it's idling at 21" it's going to have 'base' timing of 18 degs on that map. In comparison to that base, then yes, 12 degs is 4 degs "retarded" from 16 degs, but it is still "advanced", in the sense that the spark is happening before TDC in an absolute sense.

 

got it thanks

 

So what kinda numbers should I be shooting for on this motor? Whats safe for a good tune

 

so is base timing refering to just the timing at idle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unusual71 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so is base timing refering to just the timing at idle?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes..

WOT, I would assume similar to other D-series but how far you can push it is based primarily on mechanical history of the engine... if the tune's good it's a crapshoot as to how strong it is, but 200hp shouldn't be a prob if it's not pinging.

 

I want 300 @ 15psi

 

Forget the psi and stick with the HP goal. It's a good idea to build for that power. Pistons, rods, cams, decent turbo will get you there easily. Definitely don't need sleeving for that.

 

EDIT:

Heres the map I came up with after some smoothing

Alright, I know expletive all aout ignition timing, no idea how much a regular car on a 3 bar and this much boost would be and I couldnt find any bins to ref it to

So I just smoothed them out

Im pretty sure this is conservative as expletive but could someone give me some pointers, maybe I could add some more timing in places or I have to much

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic...s=f10

 

boing