190-175-180-190

engine warm, throttle open, 10 second long cranking intervals, engine has 191,000 miles on it, no head gasket problems to speak of, no burning oil, no blue smoke.

 

I was told anything more than 5 or 10 between all the cyclinders and you have a problem. Ofcourse I am sure others will get on here and say its ok. But, with #1 being 190, and #2 being 175, I'd be worried at that difference.

 

put a dab of oil in the cylindar and do it again,

I wouldnt be to worried about it if it drives fine

 

When's the last time you had a valve adjustment?

I'd be doing a leakdown as well.

 

last year, we are getting ready to swap heads with one that has port work done to it before we go ahead and put the JRSC on

 

On the B18B1, the cylinder pressure must not exceed 199psi or be any lower than 135psi.
On all three engines, there must not be any variation greater than 28psi between any cylinders.

the unevenness on the middle two cylinders is what bothers me

 

do a leak down check.

if that turns up about the same it may be valve adjustment, carbon buildup, wear,

research seafoam

 

please dont use seafoam in your motor,

research seafoam

 

i have never personally used seafoam. but i have seen effects of it for the people who used it correctly it worked great. considering they did not want to pull every thing apart and start over because it was a cheap dd with a billion miles. there is actually a thread pertaining to it and how if used correctly is helpful just was throwing it out there considering the motor has 190k and probably time for a rebuild. not to offend.

 

i just did a "wet compression" check if you will, according to team integras guide to compression, i put a teaspoon of 5w-30 in each of the two center cylinders and retested and i got 190 on cylinder 2 and 200 on cylinder 3

 

sounds like some where in the 2 inner cylinders either the valve seats,rings are not holding like they should be.
you have a few choices from here if its not burning oil, and not running poorly ect ... not bothering you let it be, if not its seems to be time to hone,new rings, and recut your 45% on those valve seats or total rebuild just imo

might be something else im sure someone can be helpfull or other ideas

 

i could try to locate a leak down tester from one of my buddys and see whats what, but given the fact that it doesnt burn or loose oil, runs fine, and seems to have consistent #'s all within all the b18b1 tests ive seen with the 2 center cylinders being lower then the outer too, im debating whether or not its just worth it to see how it is after we switch heads, mind you the new head will have a 3 angle valve job so the valves will be reseated, brand new valve stem seals, new head gasket, and ARP head studs and bolts to apply better pressure then the factory bolt system.

 

well at least when you have the head off you can see what the cyclinder walls look like.
im sure they are fine but i bet they are like glass, the crosshatch is probally toast but so many motors still operate fine.

 

would just replacing the rings be out of the question with this many miles or would it need to be bored and honed again?

 

get a ball type hone and nock the glaze off the walls and re-ring...if the motor is in good shape i have gottten away with just a hone (block still in car) and rings...

 

You do realize that Honda advises against using Seafoam on its Engines, right? They don't say that because they are going to get extra money from it, they say it because, as they said, modern fuel has additives in it that don't require items like Seafoam as older 80s, 70s engines would.

 

ive done a half can in the gas tank before, doesnt do anything, i have used redline PTE detergent and that makes a noticeable difference in idle, as well as chevron techron concentrate, i also only use shell gasoline, the car runs like **** on wawa 10% ethanol gas.