Car is a 99 si b16a2
p28 ecu
hondata 200b

The problem is the led blinks.So i have had my tuner reburn my base maps chip so to see if that was the problem.still flashes after that.

Then i sent my ecu to a h-t member clay something i forget his name.He checked it said there was some parts missing but should be good as new now.

So i go to hook it up today and i get the same problem.Led blinks when i jump the ecu to get the code the CEL just stays on no blinking.When i get the j1 jumper to return ecu to stock i get no codes.So what the heck could be the problem.Right now the tranny is out so there are sometthings not hooked up but.IE..starter,speed sensor,and some other sensors.Could that just be my problem right there is not what else could it be iam starting to get frustrated...

 

Did cray test it in his car with another program? Say, uberdata.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did cray test it in his car with another program? Say, uberdata.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That wont help if the ECU wasnt prepped right.
Try burning the program to a diff Eprom. that one might be fucked. Also have someone look over the prep work .Somethng as small as a jumper could make you go nuts

 

i have 2 different eproms though one from hondata and then one from the guy i bought the p28 from iam not sure what cray tested it with but he said everything should be good to go...iam lost

 

You said that now the interface box stays solid, but you have a check engine light...whill it rev past 4000 rpm? Try jumping the service check connector and read the code. It could be that your basemap just has the knock sensor enabled and you have a p28.

 

I had the same problem which took awhile to figure out. Its the socket on the ECU has a bad connection, resolder all the pins, This should clear the problem up

 

There were two caps missing from the install, and the soldering looked like a 85 y/o blind guy did it with his feet.

I just re-soldered evertyhing, added the caps, and sent it back to him. Didn't have my car to test it on.

 

Its possible that the 74HC373 got fried by too much heat when it was soldered in.

 

so is there anyone here that can test this out on there car and that i can trust..i know 99.9% of the people on here u can trust

 

The caps are not needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The caps are not needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to say the same, but didn't want to start a huge debate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said that now the interface box stays solid, but you have a check engine light...whill it rev past 4000 rpm? Try jumping the service check connector and read the code. It could be that your basemap just has the knock sensor enabled and you have a p28.</TD></TR></TABLE>


the interface box flashes..and yes i have a cel.....keep in mind iam not starting the car please tell me this thing is not supose to blink when u just turn the key forward.The car cant start yet tranny is out of it

 

Have you cut J12?

 

yup and ecu return to stock and thows no codes

 

it could be a number of things. It could be the interface cable running between the s200 unit and the ECu has gone bad or could have an exposed wire touching metal. Second could be the s200b unit itself. One way to test this is (when you get your car running) try to see if the launch control works (if equipped). If after you set the launch control, or attempt to set it, and the CEL and Shift Light are still blinking then it is most likely something in your s200 unit has gone bad, and i would recommend sending it back to hondata.

the same thing happened with me, the LED on the s200 unit itself would have a very slow flash, and then the rev limiter would randomly kick in at 6500rpms, the launch control wouldnt work. So i tried reburning the EPROM which didnt work, tested the cable and the interface cable was good, so i narrowed it down to the s200 unit and i will be sending mine into hondata this week to be checked out.

 

oh and also datalogging doesnt work anymore either on mine so thats another way to determine its the s200 unit.

 

well when i try to connect mt labtop to datalog it just trys to connect.what are my options here.Should i send everything to hondata and ask them to check everything will they do that i just want it to get it taken care of instead of guessing

 

Try the eprom that the guy you bought the ECU from sent you to see if it works. If it does not, chances are its a problem with the chipping of the ECU, and not the Hondata equipment. If the chipping of the ECU is bad, none of the Hondata stuff will work (datalogging, rev limits, launch control, etc...)

If the eprom from the ECU vendor works, then maybe there is something wrong with your Hondata hardware.

 

What code are you throwing...you said its a blinking CEL on the ECU and not solid right?

You said earlier you dont have the VSS hooked up...could be that.

A bad soldering job will throw a solid CEL. A blinking CEL means mechanical issues or ROM with the wrong options checked.

 

ok the code i think iam thowing is 0 which is faulty ecu because when i jump it it just does the same thing it does when its not jumps its just a soild CEL.iam not iam jumping it though becuz the srs light stays on when i jump it.The hondata unit is blinking....yes the VSS is not hooked up along with everything else that is involved with the transmission becasue the tranny is out of the car right now..iam about to buy just a new p28 but i wanna be sure thats the problem

 

Try the chip that came with your ECU first! If it doesn't work still, let me know, I can fix your ECU for you.

 

Jaker: i got a chip with the p28 and then one with my hondata.When everything the first time it didnt work so i figured the chip wasnt burned right so what i did is justg sent them noth to get reburned so right now i have 2 chips with just the same base map and niether of them work

 

Well if you wanted to send out the ECU again, I could take a look at it for you. I'll repair it for a flat rate of $40 plus shipping back to you. If I can't fix it you pay nothing other than return shipping. And I will test it before sending it back.

Jacques

 

JAKER: Do you have a car u can test my p28 in...I just dont want to spend 40$ if its not going to fix the problem for sure i already spend 25$ on someone that said it was fixed.I dont have a problem paying for it as long is it get fixed.If i send u 40 and i already spent 25 i have already paid half for what i could just get another p28 for...but let me know i can send u some money out tomarrow if this is the route u think i should go

 

Yes I do. I have an 89 Civic that is converted to full OBD1.