honda rod strength?
ok. i have a 92 cx with a b16.i pulled my motor and began my rebuild and turbo set up. for my bottom end i bought acl race bearings and wiesco pistons. i was going to run stock rods but the more i talk to people the more i want to save and buy rods. my question is will the bottom end hold on 10 to 14 lbs and if it will, how long will the rods stay together?
300 bucks that i would have to save which means my car being down even longer. i havnt decided yet. im just trying to see how many lbs. and for how long the stock rods are good for.
Here is a worst case scenario: You take all this time and spend $$$ on all but rods.... and a stock rod lets go...guess what? Youll be buying new pistons/bearings again (possibly sleeves/block/crank/head too) and how long will the car be down then?
Imo(especially on a boosted motor), if your going to take the time to swap pistons/bearings, then save up the xtra 300 and get new rods.
Imo(especially on a boosted motor), if your going to take the time to swap pistons/bearings, then save up the xtra 300 and get new rods.
ok. these are for sale right now. good rods? will they go with my crank,bearing,piston set up? they come with arp rod bolts also. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
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one of the differences between stock and forged rods are that a stock rod stretches
over time and gets weaker and weaker and keeps strecting
the forged rod might stretch but it will stop and not keep going
also your pistons are full floating pins and you will have to get the stock rods heated and pressed on
just buck up for the rods boost builds alot off cylinder pressure I wouldn't risk it
over time and gets weaker and weaker and keeps strecting
the forged rod might stretch but it will stop and not keep going
also your pistons are full floating pins and you will have to get the stock rods heated and pressed on
just buck up for the rods boost builds alot off cylinder pressure I wouldn't risk it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchvx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for info</TD></TR></TABLE>
you = should not be boosting
boost = money
money = you dont want to spend
rods = good investment
you = should not be boosting
boost = money
money = you dont want to spend
rods = good investment
it also depends on how good the tune is, and yes they should fit fine with weisco pistons( worked for me)
Personaly i would just get the rods and wait so that way if u ever want to get more power out of you dont have to tear the block down again and put in stronger rods.
Personaly i would just get the rods and wait so that way if u ever want to get more power out of you dont have to tear the block down again and put in stronger rods.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSpin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a stock rod, forged piston setup is a great setup for a street car, keep the revs in check and go for it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
who do u know that drives a honda that keeps their revs in check
</TD></TR></TABLE>who do u know that drives a honda that keeps their revs in check
well i plan on running 10 lbs on the street on 93 octane and 15 lbs at the track on vp 112 race fuel. im thinking what is two more weeks for another paycheck for rods, or paying for it in the long run.
will these rods "bolt/fit" right up with my wiescos? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchvx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will these rods "bolt/fit" right up with my wiescos? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, those are the ones you want.
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