sup guys. i have a eg with b16 im looking for the best way to hide my nitrous nozzle and lines. any ideas? thankz

 

depends on the system you got.

direct port system, run lines down low and attach under intake manifold.

 

i have a nx wet kit no direct port yet

 

Put the solenoids inside the brake booster and run the lines through the brake booster vaccum hose into the intake plenum. Seen a Chevy owner do it.

 

i was thinking ill put the solenoids under the intake manifold but how would i hide the lines and the nozzle going into the intake

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B--RYAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking ill put the solenoids under the intake manifold but how would i hide the lines and the nozzle going into the intake</TD></TR></TABLE>

put the nozzle and lines on the underside of the intake pipe.

why do you need to hide it, anyways?

 

dont want everyone to know im spraying

 

cause right after the race they would just assume you took off b/c god gave you a push *rollseyes*

 

im only goona use it when i need it

 

Make sure and put your bottle in your flip seat bottom. F&F yO!

 

how about not opening your hood? Just say "wanna race me for big $? no you can't look under the hood"

 

This is <U>really</U> stupid but a couple years back I did a hidden nitrous setup for my friend's Rex. It was just a single fogger dry system but so long as it's not direct port this wouldn't be much harder than running an additional line for fuel. I pulled the dash, removed the heater core, A/C condensor box, blower, and mounted a 10lbs bottle underneath, along with all the necessary plumbing (relays, solenoids, lines, etc.). Once that was setup, I drilled a hole through the firewall which ran directly into the passenger side frame rail. At the time I didn't know it but if you remove all the front frame rail plating (it just unbolts), you have easy access to the front of the rail. Not knowing this simply drilled a 5/8" hole down (into the frame rail directly under the factory air box), and had an awful time snaking the line up (it probably took me 2 hours). After that I built a bracket inside of the airbox which held the nitrous nozzle inplace. From the engine bay you couldn't see a thing, unless you really knew what you were looking for (of course a small vac line ran off the intake manifold's plenum (luckily this was a GSR intake manifold so the port is on the bottom half) and also off the fuel pressure regulator). Even then I made the lines pretty hard to trace. For the trigger, I reworked a '92-95 Civic steering wheel to fit the Rex's steering column, only because I wanted the horn switches. I used an MSD rpm activated switch to activate the nitrous at the same time his VTEC crossed over. I put a discrete little black SPST switch inside the glove box which armed the system and the steering wheel horn "button" were used to shut down the system when depressed. This way you could hold them while launching, etc. without nitrous firing. Again this was a long time ago and on a relatively stock motor so we weren't even using a basic engine management system like Hondata, which would have made things a little easier (using it's nitrous output, etc.). Nowadays, if I were wiring up the same setup I'd still use an rpm activated switch, but I'd only kill the system via a clutch pedal input and while the E-brake is up (so the nitrous is only shut down when the 2-step is active, since I use those two inputs as triggers). The MSD switch also allows you to shut off the nitrous before your rev limiter, so if you miss a shift, and let out the clutch, nitrous won't fire just because your r's are up.

Okay well this is probably waaaaay too much to read but I'm bored since I'm done with class for the day. Thank the Lord Christ!!! I'll get on my other comp and upload a picture really fast too.

EDITED: I probably should revise this as I always do because little grammar/wording issues bug the **** out of me, but I don't feel like doing it right now... I also forgot to add, this is much easier to do on an EH chassis (if you choose to do something similar), for the simple fact that there's A LOT more room.


Modified by Kataku2K3 at 11:22 AM 5/19/2005

 

It's crazy to look back at all my old pics and see how shitty I used to do things... lol Anywho, here's one of the first pics, right after I finished everything up. It's been resized to 1024x768 to ease in loading time but also retain some detail. Shouldn't be too bad.

If you look closely below, you can see where I ran the solenoid to nozzle line through the firewall, below the level of the bottle.

 

so eh had to take out hte whole dash to fill the bottle?

 

Nope, there's still plenty of room to drop the bottle on either chassis. I could still get Mike's bottle out, even with the glove box closed. There's actually a lot of room under there front to back, just not side to side. Putting it back up is the fun part. Trying to hold a ~24lbs bottle with one hand get the nuts on the brackets is kind of tricky (you're working against gravity, and how the brackets were designed to hold the bottle)... I took off the original wingnuts which was kind of stupid, only because I hate those things! They probably would have made replacing the bottle a little easier though.

 

unless you changed the the pickup tube inside that bottle, then the siphon tube in that particular set up wont be picking up very much nitrous and you will get speed spurts, the siphon tube is mount paralell to the "nos" sticker and dips down toward the bottom edge of the bottle, or in this case is pointing directly north......................

unless changed this set up would be too ideal, or roll the bottle over

 

here's my take on a sleeper nitrous setup:






if someone ever tells you pop your trunk, you just give 'em the "you gotta be ****** kidding me" line

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unless you changed the the pickup tube inside that bottle, then the siphon tube in that particular set up wont be picking up very much nitrous and you will get speed spurts, the siphon tube is mount paralell to the "nos" sticker and dips down toward the bottom edge of the bottle, or in this case is pointing directly north......................

unless changed this set up would be too ideal, or roll the bottle over</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct and the bottle pictured actually had not been modified. We did however remove the valve assembly on another, in order to "flip" the pickup so that it was oriented correctly (that is 180 degrees opposite the outlet).

JSpin, looks good. Did you use oven cleaner to strip the anodizing off the foggers, etc.?

 

Kataku I thought of that also thats pretty cool right there.

 

that bottle set up where the heater core was is sweet. havent decided if i want to do that yet. might just stick with JSpin an dsay you got to be kidding me if they ask to pop the turnk.im most defently going to get a direct port kit in the near future. i think i got a idea how to hide all my nitrous lines. but now how do i hide the nozzle where i have to put it into the intake? the nozzle has to be kinda close to the throtle body to get a good nirtous reaction right? like if i put it all the way towards the bottom of the intake it wouldnt get as much power right?? any ideas of how to hide the nozzle? thankz guys big help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are correct and the bottle pictured actually had not been modified. We did however remove the valve assembly on another, in order to "flip" the pickup so that it was oriented correctly (that is 180 degrees opposite the outlet).

JSpin, looks good. Did you use oven cleaner to strip the anodizing off the foggers, etc.?</TD></TR></TABLE>


AHHH good job!

 

sweet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboGoKart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure and put your bottle in your flip seat bottom. F&F yO!</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

 

Take a cheap plastic tool box from like Wal Mart and cur the bottom out of it. Sit it over the top of the bottle. (You can also use a big gym bag if you want to). Run the main line under the car. Install the nozzles in side the car on the firewall (behind glove box). Drill the intake arm on the under side of it. Install power switch inside the coin tray door. Run a switch to the gear shifter area, and put under the shifter boot when not using it.

Cheap and easy, and hides everything.

Jason

 

i ran the nozzle on the underside of the intake pipe and wrapped everything with wire loom and solenoids wrapped with black electrical tape. i had a 10lbs bottle w/ a remote opener in a sub enclosure.

old old setup